#16
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The brightness, on the other hand, is almost full. There's not headroom in the control. The full rotation gets you just over where it should be. I back it down just a bit to get to the right level. I could have sworn it had much more range before I started my repair work. Why are you asking? Is there something in the numbers? Also, if the numbers look okay, does that mean the resistors are probably okay as well? I will do the diode on Wed. I'm running out of steam and don't feel like flipping her over at the moment.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#17
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well if it checks out (the blanking) then I was thinking something may be a miss in the overall bias of the CRT.
You should get that working (brightness control). Check all the voltages on the CRT (G1 G2 and Cathodes). |
#18
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The CRT checks out okay on the B&K tester and the G2 voltages were good as well. Could it be possible I didn't set the G2s high enough when I did the grayscale adjustment? I disconnected the IF, turned all G2s down and then turned red up until dim raster and backed off until it disappeared ( don't like the setup line). I did the same for the blue and Green. I didn't see a need to move the taps, so they're on medium.
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#19
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well how do the voltage look at the G2? based on your setup, warning they will be pretty high so make sure your meter can handle it.
If the brightness control is turned way high, and its part of the same circuit that has the blanking maybe there could be a problem.. |
#20
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
Audiokarma |
#21
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where was it when you did your setup?
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#22
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When did what setup? If you mean the grayscale, they were all the way CCW which would make them about 420V. I don't know what they ended up at as I didn't think to measure.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#23
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when you did the orig CRT setup you said something about not liking to use the setup switch bur rather seting up the red raster then the other colors.
Now you have the set working but you say the brightness control must be set to max. I presume the jail bars are happening with this setup. So now measure the crt pin voltages. don't move the pots I just want to know what the voltage are after you did the setup and had the picture that you say is low in brighness. |
#24
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Oh, and I'm not maxed out, but just about. There's about 1/8" movement left in the control. I know on my other CCII, there's about 3/16 or more left and can get pretty bright. When I flip her over Wednesday, I'll measure the G2 voltages as set.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#25
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That seem odd, with a good CRT and the G2's turned up 7/8 the pic should be way bright. Something is not right. The thing with CRTs is if you the correct HV and the votages are right and the CRT has good emissons it pretty much has to work right (brighness).
should be interesting to get the readings. something is off on the bias maybe in the cathode circuit after all (back to the video amp). if all the cathodes are too high it would cutoff the CRT, the driver transistors get there signal for the luma from the emitter circuit, the base is the chorma. for grins check the emitter voltages of those 3 power transistors (should all be the same about 16v no signal)again be careful on slip and you will ruin the transistors. Last edited by DaveWM; 08-19-2013 at 09:09 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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How are those numbers? And it's not the G2s that are turned up that far, it's the brightness control on the front of the set that up.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#27
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Okay, unsoldered the leg of the diode. It measured 584 or so one way, infinity the other. So I'm assuming it's good, right? That's really the only test you can do on a diode, right?
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#28
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what does the sams say the G2s should be? that seems low to me.
before doing anymore work on the jail bars you need to get the brightness thing worked out. do the setup per the sams, (with the service switch) then check the brightness control and the G2 voltages. and yes the diode is fine. |
#29
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So I need to bring the G2s up to roughly those values? I know they go that high and higher from testing, but didn't know I was aiming for those values when adjusting. I'll have to do it tomorrow. Got a busy day today.
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Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#30
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its not that you are aiming for those that is just what sams got, my concern is if you deviated from the correct G2 setup procedure, then the bias of the tube may be off, making other things (maybe the jail bars) become an issue.
just do the setup as defined in sams, check the voltages and post back the results if brightness is still an issue then need to look at the other voltages and try to figure out why, brightness should not be an issue with a good tube with correct HV and pin voltages. |
Audiokarma |
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