#16
|
||||
|
||||
What do you mean by "invisible" waves?
|
#17
|
||||
|
||||
Okay, how about transparent waves. You can see the waves as they run upwards and then downwards, but they are clear. It's just the slight distortion they case to the image that lets you know they're there.
I tried to capture them via video, but it's harder than it would seem. I'm still trying, though.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 Last edited by TinCanAlley; 08-08-2013 at 02:29 PM. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Q202 is the one, you could try checking it, but I doubt its the problem. under the chassis you should see diode that goes to the base of that, then a couple resistors 33k then a couple 100k (5%). from there it goes to the flyback thru a cap.
I would check the transistor, diode,and resistors. Pretty sure you will need to take them out of the circuit to check, which will be a PITA and of course they may be ok. With out a scope you are handicapped into doing work to check things rather than just looking at the signal. Again this is only a guess, so don't expect it to fix things its just an educated guess. If I were you I would start looking into buying a scope, I know there will be some that say its a waste of money, true you can fix a lot of stuff without one, but when you run into tough dogs, it will save time, "don't be a dope, use that scope" |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
oh in case you do not know, its always wise to use heat sinks when soldering semiconductors, esp old ones that may be germainium. I use hemostats. clamp near the body of the part to sink out heat from the leads when soldering our un soldering.
|
Audiokarma |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
not really, using a scope takes some experience, and knowing what to look for.
Besides just knowing how to set it up takes practice. It would be a good learning exp, but may not be enough to point to the problem. This is why you need to get used to using one a lot, the more exp you have with it the better. |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Okay, I found the transistor socket on the bottom side of the chassis. I found a 1K resistor from the socket. I'm trying to trace where it goes from there. I think I'll need a more powerful soldering gun. The hollow end of the pins are filled with solder and the ends are stuck inside. My 35w can't melt the solder as the pin and such are pulling the heat away.
Time to make a list of things to purchase. Oh, my brother knows how to use the scope (he fixes old B&W sets), so I'll try and borrow him along with the scope.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
I've been using a pair of needle nose. They act as a heat sink and allow me to wiggle the lead loose and such.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
don't forget the heat sink, a lot of heat can damage a part before you get to check it. Those zenith solder pots can be difficult to deal with, I could get things out but getting back in was not so easy. Try cleaning the outside of the pot, then a little flux to get the heat to transfer well. use the sink I use it even on resistors, no reason to get them so hot.
|
Audiokarma |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Hopefully the schematic will have some scope patterns for that transistor to look at. without that it may not be much help. My DC56 has a pattern showing a pretty strong vert pulse with smaller horz pulses at the output from the blanker (emitter i think).
|
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Sorry, I don't have one. I go from 121-500 to 121-758, nothing in between. Cheers,
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
So with those on the schematics I should be able to connect a scope to that point of the circuit and compare mine to theirs? If so, it sounds simple, but I'm sure the part I can't read must be the settings or such. I'm about done with the work. Once I get rid of the jail bars, all will be perfect and I can relax and enjoy the picture.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#29
|
||||
|
||||
No problem. Just found out there's an old electronics shop a few miles from me that has lots of older stuff sitting around. I'm going to make a list of parts and call to see if they have them.
__________________
Pioneer SX-1080, Pioneer PL-115D, Pioneer CT-F9191, Pioneer RG-1, Wollensak 8050A, Akai 4000DS MkII, Pioneer CS-05 & Polk 1.2TL Denon 5803A, Pioneer DVL-700, Pioneer CT-W603RS, Toshiba HD-A3, D-Link DSM-520, Dish VIP-722, Polk 1.2TL, CSi5, LS/fx, RT-800 and PSW-650 |
#30
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
A scope can be handy as mentioned. Years ago I had a Zenith 24MC32 that had three "very transparent" vertical bars running through it and they were not always noticable. There was no sweep distortion so I believed it had to be in the video somewhere. I was still quite the novice back then so I lived with 'em... Sounds like your brother may be handy too! |
Audiokarma |
|
|