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  #16  
Old 03-30-2016, 07:49 PM
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rca2000 rca2000 is offline
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I do not think anyone is saying a "DLP can never be saved"...HOWEVER...they ALL seem to have a "long term" issue of the DLP chip "growing "spots".. on them. That--and color wheels and lamps.. A CW is often NOT cheap...IF available.. and DLP chips are NOT cheap.

\MAYBE...you could get that set to run...with just a bulb..and maybe NOT. it SUCKS....to waste money o a bulb just to find out you have a bad CW or DLP chip..

If it is not seeming to power on at ALL..it is likely a lamp issue or fan issue. Does the lamp even TRY and fire? Can you hear the "ticking sound" near it--of the start sequence?
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  #17  
Old 03-30-2016, 08:16 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rca2000 View Post
I do not think anyone is saying a "DLP can never be saved"...HOWEVER...they ALL seem to have a "long term" issue of the DLP chip "growing "spots".. on them. That--and color wheels and lamps.. A CW is often NOT cheap...IF available.. and DLP chips are NOT cheap.

\MAYBE...you could get that set to run...with just a bulb..and maybe NOT. it SUCKS....to waste money o a bulb just to find out you have a bad CW or DLP chip..

If it is not seeming to power on at ALL..it is likely a lamp issue or fan issue. Does the lamp even TRY and fire? Can you hear the "ticking sound" near it--of the start sequence?
When I plug it in the fans do power on and the bulb does attempt to fire twice but then after about a minute or so the unit completely shuts down including the fans and the power/standby light flashes a blue color, it flashes a few times slowly and then a couple of times really fast, and that flashing pattern is all the standby/power light does in the front the entire time the TV is plugged in, also when the TV is plugged in it does make a "click" noise just before the fans power on and the light tries to fire, and when the TV finally shuts down it makes another "click" noise and then shuts everything including the fans off. is that what it does when the bulb is bad? or is that what it does when the chip or color wheel is bad? I used to have a couple of older DLP LCD Projectors but I had sold them already, had I known I possibly could of used parts from those because they were still good yet, they just didn't have a bulb for either of them because they both burned out.
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  #18  
Old 03-30-2016, 08:27 PM
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rca2000 rca2000 is offline
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Have you taken the bulb out...and looked to see if it is not DEAD? As if in the little arc-tube is not cracked...? or shattered? That OFTEN happens with these Xenon-mercury vapor bulbs...they often crack the arc-tube.

If you can look and see if the arc-tube is trying to fire...a clicking noise from it means the ballast is trying to start it...but the bulb is dead..
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  #19  
Old 03-31-2016, 10:46 AM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Have you taken the bulb out...and looked to see if it is not DEAD? As if in the little arc-tube is not cracked...? or shattered? That OFTEN happens with these Xenon-mercury vapor bulbs...they often crack the arc-tube.

If you can look and see if the arc-tube is trying to fire...a clicking noise from it means the ballast is trying to start it...but the bulb is dead..
I took the bulb out a couple of times and looked it over but it looked like it was just fine but I may have been looking at it wrong and it could be burned out and that's all that's wrong with it. were there certain brands of DLP Projection TVs that were known to be more reliable than others? Just curious.
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  #20  
Old 03-31-2016, 02:51 PM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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Did you check the color wheel? Many times the bearings get sloppy on the color wheel allowing the wheel to hit the case and shatter. It will still spin up, but the tachometer won't read correctly with the wheel shattered and the startup will fail.

On Philips DLPs, it's almost always the bulb or the color wheel. They actually aren't all that bad for a DLP. Be thankful it isn't a Sony.

If you get it going and don't like it, maybe you could sell the light engine on ebay. That's what I used to do with DLPs that had broken mirrors or lenses (screens). I don't know if they still sell, but they did about 5 years ago when I was listing them.
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  #21  
Old 03-31-2016, 04:02 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by CoogarXR View Post
Did you check the color wheel? Many times the bearings get sloppy on the color wheel allowing the wheel to hit the case and shatter. It will still spin up, but the tachometer won't read correctly with the wheel shattered and the startup will fail.

On Philips DLPs, it's almost always the bulb or the color wheel. They actually aren't all that bad for a DLP. Be thankful it isn't a Sony.

If you get it going and don't like it, maybe you could sell the light engine on ebay. That's what I used to do with DLPs that had broken mirrors or lenses (screens). I don't know if they still sell, but they did about 5 years ago when I was listing them.
I'll take a look at the color wheel, and see if its in good shape yet or not.
I'll also take a look at the bulb again and see if its burned out or not.

Last edited by Captainclock; 03-31-2016 at 07:44 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-31-2016, 07:44 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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UPDATE: I took the unit apart and took a look at the color wheel and the color wheel is still in one piece yet, its not shattered or anything. I took the DLP Module apart and it seems that the heatsink grease that went between the main DLP chip and its heatsink was dried up which might be why its not turning on because maybe the TV is powering down to protect the chip from overheating and destroying itself. Also I took a look at the bulb and it doesn't show any signs of cracks or being broken so the bulb is definitely still good it seems unless those bulbs fail without the bulb breaking...

I posted some pictures below of the parts in question so that you guys can see the condition of the parts in question.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN2770.jpg (69.5 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2772.jpg (127.9 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN2773.jpg (47.8 KB, 32 views)

Last edited by Captainclock; 03-31-2016 at 07:54 PM. Reason: added pictures
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  #23  
Old 04-15-2016, 09:04 PM
Geoff Bourquin Geoff Bourquin is offline
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That bulb is bad. Note the melted blob on the burner (the little round ball at the bottom of the glass stem in the center). If the bulb ever does fire up it wont last long before "POP!"
I have seen color wheels shatter on these, as well as make more noise than a garbage truck, and also have seen one with siezed bearings. Fans go bad too. A bulb might get yours running but it's a crap-shoot as for how long it'll keep running. Might be only days, you may get a couple years out of it. Whatever you do, DO NOT use one of the cheap, $30 bulbs they sell online. You'll regret it.
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  #24  
Old 04-16-2016, 01:17 PM
Captainclock Captainclock is offline
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Originally Posted by Geoff Bourquin View Post
That bulb is bad. Note the melted blob on the burner (the little round ball at the bottom of the glass stem in the center). If the bulb ever does fire up it wont last long before "POP!"
I have seen color wheels shatter on these, as well as make more noise than a garbage truck, and also have seen one with siezed bearings. Fans go bad too. A bulb might get yours running but it's a crap-shoot as for how long it'll keep running. Might be only days, you may get a couple years out of it. Whatever you do, DO NOT use one of the cheap, $30 bulbs they sell online. You'll regret it.
I found a bulb for this thing over at Best Buy for $94 and its a Philips bulb which I heard where the better bulbs to get for these, which I think I'm going to get that bulb once I save up some money to do so.
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