#61
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I'd check the schematic and see if you have all the leads on that coil sticking out far enough to solder. If so you could tack on about an inch of fine gauge wire to the stubs, glue the base back in, and solder the extenders to the terminal posts....I've had to deal with the kind of damage you picture before and the above procedure was the way I fixed it.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#62
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Ya, I thought of that.. I think there is enough leaded wires coming out.. I'm not sure if there is 2 or 4 wires..
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Looking for an all tube or hybrid color TV set from the late 1960s, early 1970s that's in a steal cabinet.. |
#63
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Here is a pic of one of the two coils behind the plugin.. looking from the bottom of the chassis, there is a break in one of the coils.. Wire perks out... I measured with my ohm meter, there is no voltage going past those coils when I plug in the cord.. Is this something that could be jumped at least until I Obtain some kind of replacement?
You can see at broken wire on the left coil
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Looking for an all tube or hybrid color TV set from the late 1960s, early 1970s that's in a steal cabinet.. Last edited by tvcollector; 12-07-2014 at 10:57 PM. |
#64
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You can simply bypass the coils with a piece if wire. The coils are simply to filter the high frequency noise leaving the set and entering the 120v mains supply. I suspect there will be more horizontal sweep radiation as a result of the bypassing.
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#65
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Many sets did not have those coils so bypassing them is fine. One quick N' dirty replacement can be had from a junked switching power supply from a computer, modern TV, etc. Most switching power supplies have a 4 pin transformer looking part in between the power cord and the rectifier bridge (the bridge is usually just before a large X00uF 200V lytic) that transformer looking part is basically the two line coils in your set only conveniently wrapped into a single part.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#66
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I bypassed the coils.. and it went KABOOM instantly as i plugged the cord in.. Notice the black mark now.. Sounds like issues with the power supply.. There's a cap that looks to be made out of some kind of foil that doesn't look good (pictured).. That may be the problem..
It's something Dave is going to have to look at..
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Looking for an all tube or hybrid color TV set from the late 1960s, early 1970s that's in a steal cabinet.. Last edited by tvcollector; 12-08-2014 at 03:05 AM. |
#67
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beware of the many flat wind coils used, very fragile, you don't want to break out the air gun and start blasting away to clean it. If you feel you must clean use q tips and alcohol very carefully, and stay away from those flat coils.
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#68
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this is where you want to use a variac (bypassing things) watching the AC amp draw and monitoring the B+
The cap prob is an across the line cap just just exploded, remove it and try again with the variac. Last edited by DaveWM; 12-08-2014 at 07:20 AM. |
#69
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Another good idea is, before connecting the plug, to check the resistance at the chassis interlock terminals. If it is below 40 ohms (calculated assuming 350W rated consumption, and the same resistance cold as during operation) then assume there is a problem and fix it before connecting power.
That char mark reminds me of the time when I was a teen when I tried to find which pins on a 4 pin power plug were 120V. I used a DMM set to voltage, but with the leads in the 10A current measuring position (which is a dead short) there was a POP and lots of smoke....Surprisingly nothing was destroyed and the breaker never tripped.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#70
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It's obvious, that the flyback runs hot! An aluminum frame and heat-sink compound to transfer heat to the chassis proper. Probably, not a bad idea. It looks like a lightning kiss! I would use the series lamp trick instead of the variac for now. The transformer primary might be damaged as well. I wonder how much heat, I'm going to catch, for this entry. |
Audiokarma |
#71
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The chassis stamping is the same as some CTC-15 clones I have, and I can't help but do a double take seeing the 'audio board' devoid of tubes and instead used as a PS board....Something about large power resistors on an early PCB that just screams cold solder joints and B+ failure to me.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#72
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BTW, I probably have your coil - I have several, just need to figure out the function of the broken coil. Lemme know - my Sams is mysteriously missing. I've had it out before, so no gremlins to blame - just my disorderly mess. Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:38 PM. |
#73
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Quote:
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Looking for an all tube or hybrid color TV set from the late 1960s, early 1970s that's in a steal cabinet.. Last edited by tvcollector; 12-08-2014 at 12:19 PM. |
#74
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I removed the cap.. it measures at 5.6 ohms cold at interlock.. I"ll probably try the light bulb procedure in series with the variac...
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Looking for an all tube or hybrid color TV set from the late 1960s, early 1970s that's in a steal cabinet.. |
#75
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I get about 3 ohms at the plug.
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