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  #61  
Old 12-07-2014, 10:07 PM
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I'd check the schematic and see if you have all the leads on that coil sticking out far enough to solder. If so you could tack on about an inch of fine gauge wire to the stubs, glue the base back in, and solder the extenders to the terminal posts....I've had to deal with the kind of damage you picture before and the above procedure was the way I fixed it.
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  #62  
Old 12-07-2014, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I'd check the schematic and see if you have all the leads on that coil sticking out far enough to solder. If so you could tack on about an inch of fine gauge wire to the stubs, glue the base back in, and solder the extenders to the terminal posts....I've had to deal with the kind of damage you picture before and the above procedure was the way I fixed it.

Ya, I thought of that.. I think there is enough leaded wires coming out.. I'm not sure if there is 2 or 4 wires..
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  #63  
Old 12-07-2014, 10:12 PM
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Here is a pic of one of the two coils behind the plugin.. looking from the bottom of the chassis, there is a break in one of the coils.. Wire perks out... I measured with my ohm meter, there is no voltage going past those coils when I plug in the cord.. Is this something that could be jumped at least until I Obtain some kind of replacement?



You can see at broken wire on the left coil
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Last edited by tvcollector; 12-07-2014 at 10:57 PM.
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  #64  
Old 12-08-2014, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
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.. Is this something that could be jumped at least until I Obtain some kind of replacement?
You can simply bypass the coils with a piece if wire. The coils are simply to filter the high frequency noise leaving the set and entering the 120v mains supply. I suspect there will be more horizontal sweep radiation as a result of the bypassing.
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  #65  
Old 12-08-2014, 01:19 AM
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Many sets did not have those coils so bypassing them is fine. One quick N' dirty replacement can be had from a junked switching power supply from a computer, modern TV, etc. Most switching power supplies have a 4 pin transformer looking part in between the power cord and the rectifier bridge (the bridge is usually just before a large X00uF 200V lytic) that transformer looking part is basically the two line coils in your set only conveniently wrapped into a single part.
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  #66  
Old 12-08-2014, 02:35 AM
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I bypassed the coils.. and it went KABOOM instantly as i plugged the cord in.. Notice the black mark now.. Sounds like issues with the power supply.. There's a cap that looks to be made out of some kind of foil that doesn't look good (pictured).. That may be the problem..



It's something Dave is going to have to look at..
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Last edited by tvcollector; 12-08-2014 at 03:05 AM.
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  #67  
Old 12-08-2014, 07:12 AM
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beware of the many flat wind coils used, very fragile, you don't want to break out the air gun and start blasting away to clean it. If you feel you must clean use q tips and alcohol very carefully, and stay away from those flat coils.
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  #68  
Old 12-08-2014, 07:17 AM
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this is where you want to use a variac (bypassing things) watching the AC amp draw and monitoring the B+

The cap prob is an across the line cap just just exploded, remove it and try again with the variac.

Last edited by DaveWM; 12-08-2014 at 07:20 AM.
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  #69  
Old 12-08-2014, 09:48 AM
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Another good idea is, before connecting the plug, to check the resistance at the chassis interlock terminals. If it is below 40 ohms (calculated assuming 350W rated consumption, and the same resistance cold as during operation) then assume there is a problem and fix it before connecting power.

That char mark reminds me of the time when I was a teen when I tried to find which pins on a 4 pin power plug were 120V. I used a DMM set to voltage, but with the leads in the 10A current measuring position (which is a dead short) there was a POP and lots of smoke....Surprisingly nothing was destroyed and the breaker never tripped.
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  #70  
Old 12-08-2014, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Don't rejuv just yet - I'll check my stock of GE parts to see if I have a coil, or a replacement. CB chassis was GE's version of the CTC15, with improvements. I'll pull my sams and see about your coil - most of the coils are interchangeable with the CA chassis, a sister to yours, and better yet, Miller, Workman, and Merit all made replacements.

Cheers,
You call that thing an improvement over the time-tested CTC15!
It's obvious, that the flyback runs hot! An aluminum frame and heat-sink compound to transfer heat to the chassis proper. Probably, not a bad idea.
It looks like a lightning kiss! I would use the series lamp trick instead of the variac for now. The transformer primary might be damaged as well.
I wonder how much heat, I'm going to catch, for this entry.
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  #71  
Old 12-08-2014, 10:22 AM
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The chassis stamping is the same as some CTC-15 clones I have, and I can't help but do a double take seeing the 'audio board' devoid of tubes and instead used as a PS board....Something about large power resistors on an early PCB that just screams cold solder joints and B+ failure to me.
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  #72  
Old 12-08-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post

The cap prob is an across the line cap just just exploded, remove it and try again with the variac.
In the first phot0 he posted, it was already toast. Remove the cap (with the green stripe) and check again for shorts. The coils are hash coils, and any modern common mode choke (from a junked set) will work.

BTW, I probably have your coil - I have several, just need to figure out the function of the broken coil. Lemme know - my Sams is mysteriously missing. I've had it out before, so no gremlins to blame - just my disorderly mess.

Cheers,
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Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:38 PM.
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  #73  
Old 12-08-2014, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by tvcollector View Post
According to the Sams the coil is L46 item number - Horiz Osc - GE part number ET36X727 - Miller part number 6350... Others are blank including Thordason.. Looks like there is a few other of these coils that are the same throughout the chassis... If anyone has this part.. I'll be the buyer..
This is what I have with the sams.. It works as a Horizontal Oscillator..
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Last edited by tvcollector; 12-08-2014 at 12:19 PM.
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  #74  
Old 12-08-2014, 12:18 PM
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I removed the cap.. it measures at 5.6 ohms cold at interlock.. I"ll probably try the light bulb procedure in series with the variac...
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  #75  
Old 12-08-2014, 12:41 PM
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I get about 3 ohms at the plug.
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