#31
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I would leave that little bit of green alone, not worth the hassle of removing the CRT from the set.
However if you really want to do it, the green is soft, almost like a jelly, a thin music wire with a couple wood handles to grab it with can be used to slice under the lens, kind of saw thru the goo. Its a pita to clean up, very sticky gets everywhere, wear some old clothes... |
#32
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Oh yes Nelson. Old TV sets that had Atari 2600 systems connected to them....or used as security monitors will have this burn-in if they were like that for a LONG time or the contrast was really high.
The BEST example of this is to go find an old Pac-Man arcade machine and turn it off. The "maze" on almost every one of 'em are burned in. You just don't usually see it unless the tinted glass isn't covering it, or you are servicing it and put up a blank raster. This also is the biggest drawback to plasma sets.....super high contrast, and watching material with "bars" either top to bottom (letterbox) or side to side (SD)....WILL start to burn them. I even have a Viewsonic LCD that did the same thing. It's not a "burn" in LCD...it's called "persistance" and has to be exercised out. MAYBE sunlight COULD do this, but it wouldn't be too obvious unless you did something weird like blocked HALF of the CRT from sun. My only curiosity is if all this HEAT does something to the phosphors...or the mask. And Dave. That "string or wire with handles" is an old trick for us who play with customizing cars. You use a similar setup to cut through the 3M adhesive that holds something like the "Kia" emblem on your Kia Soul's bonnet. MUCH safer than heat guns and PRYING on paint...even with masking tape. I would imagine you DON'T want to be prying on or jamming tools between the CRT and a glass plate.
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My current "holy grail" is trying to get enough parts together to get a Singer TV6U going. Been kicking my ass for nearly a year now :-P Last edited by AiboPet; 07-01-2012 at 09:03 AM. |
#33
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In the early 80's when I was in high school I was in a computer explorer post through the Boy scouts at a local major carrier insurance company using their IBM 370 to learn how to program in COBOL (ugh!!). All the terminals in the company would display their company logo on the screen(all were green phosphor monitors) any time whey weren't being used. There was no screen savers or automatic power off for inactivity. Every single crt in every terminal I saw while I was there had a burned in image of that logo. I remember that computer being huge and it had 40 hard disk drives attached to it. Each one was the size of a top load washing machine!! Now I have a little 8GB flash drive in my pocket that cost me $10 that can probably hold as much data as 3-4 of those washing machines combined if not more.
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#34
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yep the wire works well on the green since it can cut thru it, but on the RCA tubes the PVA (or what ever it is) is rock hard. I even tried heating some SS wire with a variac (I used to cut foam wings for model airplanes that way), even red hot the hard PVA was too much for it.
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#35
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Quote:
Here is a link to an album I created last summer when I taught my self the Zenith process(and ruined an RCA type CRT). http://s1095.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/?start=all
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#36
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Quote:
Last edited by snelson903; 07-01-2012 at 01:56 PM. |
#37
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I was just saying the RCA ones are MUCH easier. I've only done 1 Zenith rectangle 22'. It's messy and nasty. I did it in the house during the winter and covered up the floor with blankets but I still managed to get a bit on the carpet. I sawed through it with guitar strings. Not as easy as you think since it want to restick itself after you cut through. I used some heat to help soften it up. The RCA PVA does not stick to things and yes it smells like a new kiddie swimming pool. The zenith stuff looks like boogers and it has a nasty odor. I'm sure it's not good for you either.
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"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee Last edited by mstaton; 07-01-2012 at 02:04 PM. |
#38
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#39
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Yours doesnt look too bad snelson, maybe leave yours alone, The maggie that is.
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"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee |
#40
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ill take your info ,when i restore the maggie i planed on doing it ,looking at that green margin will bother me i know it ,i want a nice sharp picture. i was thinking how about a large pan of water set it on a double hot plate then place the picture tube in it for a day maybe two ,water temp 120 -150 youll have to add already heated water time to time but that might soften the pva has anyone ever tryed that i wonder.
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Audiokarma |
#41
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This RCA Hi Lite difficult, didn't get it hot enough?
Was tapping in some wood shims and -Pop- safety glass cracked as there is no adhesion in cataract but strong adhesion in center. So be careful with shim pressure. Strangely though, PVA just peels off smooth CRT face once safety glass removed (Maybe vacuum really holding it on convex surface) The only upside for me is that I don't like the tint filter of (RCA) safety glass and will like to see picture/colorimetry thru modern clear soft safety plastic attach? |
#42
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The green stuff is not PVA, it's some other stuff. I don't think anyone here actually knows what it is. The water method probably wont work for that one. You will have to use the hotwire method or just try to slice though it carefully. You will need a lot of paitience. Don't do it indoors or your wife will put you in the doghouse. LOL
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"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee |
#43
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#44
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Once the bonding agent is removed the safety glass becomes purely cosmetic. Remove only if absolutely necessary .
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#45
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Still have plenty , PM if you want sample
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Audiokarma |
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