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#1
04-29-2015, 10:52 PM
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CTC-9 questions
Any specific things one should know or be aware of when restoring one of these ?
if the coating on the fly is cracked or disintergrating anything at a home depot good for recoating ? what is the difference in a 21cyp22 and 21cyp22a ? mike Last edited by kramden66; 04-29-2015 at 11:03 PM. 
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#3
04-29-2015, 11:39 PM
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I know that the purity magnets arent needed on the "A" version. They all can be turned to the defeat position parallel with the ring.
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#5
04-30-2015, 08:05 AM
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On mine there were a lot of "brown" drop caps. Most of them were leaky, which I did not expect. I have had mixed results on those years of production with caps. The chroma section is hand wired, the sockets are the wafer type, east to break so be careful working on them. there are some with a LOT of leads attached to a single pin, easy to break. Other than that it was pretty easy set to work on.
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#7
04-30-2015, 06:50 PM
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From the RCA 21CYP22-A datasheet:
"The 21CYP22-A offers two major improvements--simplified color-field setup, and improved tube reliability. The tri-color screen of the 21CYP22-A features greater tolerance for "beam-to-dot" register with the result that color fields are set up more easily and the need for adjustable field equalizer magnets is eliminated. Useful cathode emission is prolonged and tube reliability improved by lower temperature operation of the cathodes. Such operation is achieved through the use of improved ceramic-supported cathodes and reduced-current heaters." My thanks to N2IKX for providing me with the data.
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#9
05-01-2015, 12:34 AM
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What is the thing near the audio board that has the look of a bulb socket ? it is closest to the 6aq5.
this uses a tube crystal ? what supposed to be the ma on the horz out tube ? and what is it pin 5 ? i forgot. mike
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#11
05-03-2015, 07:02 PM
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Circuit board underneath the video amplifier tube on these always seem like they're toast. Pay special attention to that area- and install a socket saver to keep the heat from destroying the board any further.
For silicon- there are a handful of recommendations out there but I always use Permatex black RTV silicon from the auto supply- it's "sensor safe" so won't turn acidic later and attack any windings. Hear tell that clear or white "Silicon II" works to- it's designed for bathroom and tiling but I think it only comes in those one-time-use caulking tubes so you'll need a gun. A lag bolt is also recommended to reseal the tube after use. 
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#12
05-04-2015, 09:42 AM
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Reseal the tube ? are you refering to the saftey glasss ? i don't need to do that i was just asking for what i could use to recoat the flyback , besides this set theres another set that needs the fly recoated , i used to have hv dope but it dried out , so are you saying those two products you mentioned are good to recoat the flyback or are there other products i could use ?
i was hoping to get something i just walk into the store and pick up but if i have to order online i guess i can do that too. i will take your suggestion about the video output tube. mike
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#14
05-04-2015, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
 Either can be used to recoat a flyback or reseal a safety glass if you ever had to.Don't order it, just go to a local auto supply store and but a tube of Permatex RTV.
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#15
05-15-2015, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Quote:
By the way, I wouldn't assume that every flyback needs recoating. I would inspect it carefully and see how it behaves when the rest of the TV is restored. Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html
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