Rca hg889w

[static1701]

I picked up this console last night for free. Hopefully I will get to try it out tonight. Since it was free and close to me, I did not ask any questions. It turns out that the television is tube but the amplifier is solid state. The amp uses 35728 output transistors. When I look them up they cross to NTE121's. I am not sure how to read the data sheet for this transistor... is the output power 90 watts? so almost 200 wpc PP? Not a fan of solid state but wondered if it would be any good. How good of a tv is this?

[Electronic M]

If the TV has like 1-2 6GH8s it is good if more not so good.

[static1701]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

If the TV has like 1-2 6GH8s it is good if more not so good.

Only 2. Can't wait to get home and check it out...

[mr_rye89]

CTC23? TV sound is tubed, unlike my CTC21.

The SS amp for the stereo part of these aren't that powerful. I would be surprised i it was more than 30WPC.

[static1701]

Tested the set this evening. Stereo works, solid state amp works. Television has issues: The sound works on the TV, once I was able to get the tuner to move I selected channel 10 (What my transmitter is set to) and I got a good clear audio signal. No raster because it has no high voltage at all. Tested all the tubes and replaced one 6GH8A and a 6JU8 that were bad. All other tubes are good. I am guessing the 3 can capacitors are bad. The heater was lit in the picture tube but that is as far as I can test it at this point, I don't have a CRT tester yet.

[TUD1]

It's a very beautiful 1966 TOL combo, CTC-17 chassis. You did very good. The CTC-17 is one of RCA's best chassis, it's also their first rectangular color chassis.

[Jeffhs]

Originally Posted by static1701

Tested the set this evening. Stereo works, solid state amp works. Television has issues: The sound works on the TV, once I was able to get the tuner to move I selected channel 10 (What my transmitter is set to) and I got a good clear audio signal. No raster because it has no high voltage at all. Tested all the tubes and replaced one 6GH8A and a 6JU8 that were bad. All other tubes are good. I am guessing the 3 can capacitors are bad. The heater was lit in the picture tube but that is as far as I can test it at this point, I don't have a CRT tester yet.

CRT TVs from 1950 on use the horizontal sweep section to produce high voltage (second anode) for the tube. If the horizontal sweep is not functioning, there will be no high voltage. I would check the horizontal oscillator, output and damper tubes first; if any of these tubes are not lighting or are very weak, you will have no HV. A weak or dead HV rectifier tube will also kill the HV, as will any problems with the flyback transformer.

Do not, under any circumstances, try to measure the filament voltage on the HV rectifier tube. Although the tube has a 1-, 2- or 3-volt filament (1B3, 2AV2, 3A3, for example, the last two found mostly in color sets) and is powered by a single turn of very well insulated wire around the base of the flyback core, it is charged with the entire 2nd anode voltage from the flyback, which will destroy any standard digital voltmeter in the blink of an eye. The filament of the HV rectifier tube will not produce any visible glow if it is good. The only true test of this (or any) tube is to replace it with a known good tube, since most tube testers do not test vacuum tubes under actual operating conditions.

I would replace all three of those electrolytic can capacitors before doing anything else. If one or more of those caps are defective, you can lose HV and have other problems with the set. Your TV is old enough that the electrolytics and other capacitors, especially wax-paper ones, may be and more than likely are defective and should be replaced as soon as possible. This is a general rule when repairing any TV or radio more than 20 years old, and certainly one made in the '50s. Defective capacitors, especially those in the B+ power supply, can destroy the TV's power transformer if the line fuse doesn't blow first. Defective caps in other parts of the set will affect the TV's performance, so, again, to restore peak performance to a TV as old or older than yours, replacement of every capacitor is the first order of business. Power transformers in TVs made in the '70s or earlier, particularly the latter, can often be NLA (no longer available), so it will be to your advantage to replace, at a minimum, every cap in the power supply, leaving the others for another time.

[static1701]

I have read the posts about CRT testers. What I want to know is how important is it to have a tester that can clear shorts? I like the IT-5230 but it can't clear shorts. If I were to replace all the caps in the power supply of this set it will cost me $40 plus the time and I would not know if the CRT is good until after I do the work.. so I want to buy a CRT tester. Just want to make sure I make a good choice (Money being a factor)

[zeno]

IMHO only buy a "modern" tester & be sure it has a universal adapter &
the set-up book. We used mostly the Sencore CR70 ( watch out for intermittent cable ! ) & a few B&K's.
Keep in mind if you can get any kind of pix on the TV you can evaluate the
CRT without a checker. No need for a recap before you know. Taking a few
precautions you can fire a set up & only do what you HAVE to to get some
life out of it. Why dont you post what your TV is & we can help you get things rolling on it without a checker.

BTW the moderator may want to move this.....

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Originally Posted by static1701

I have read the posts about CRT testers. What I want to know is how important is it to have a tester that can clear shorts? I like the IT-5230 but it can't clear shorts. If I were to replace all the caps in the power supply of this set it will cost me $40 plus the time and I would not know if the CRT is good until after I do the work.. so I want to buy a CRT tester. Just want to make sure I make a good choice (Money being a factor)

[Popester]

That’s a very nice cabinet. Would like to see pictures of the radio/phono part. Zeno makes a good point of trying to see if you can slowly wake up the electrolytics before you go so far as replacing them to only find out later you have a bad jug. Maybe you have a variac and slowly bring up.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Popester

That’s a very nice cabinet. Would like to see pictures of the radio/phono part. Zeno makes a good point of trying to see if you can slowly wake up the electrolytics before you go so far as replacing them to only find out later you have a bad jug. Maybe you have a variac and slowly bring up.

If he already gave it a power up with full line voltage I don't see any point in doing a variac power up now.

Better move would be to check each DC power supply rail especially those that supply the horizontal system...if those are good check grid voltages on the horizontal output and report what they are relative to what they should be.

As far as a CRT tester goes a B&K 466 is a decent cheaper tester. Don't expect top shelf rejuvenation, but it can clear shorts and rejuvenate CRTs. I use one as my main rig, but want to get a CR-70 eventually.

[static1701]

I did bring up the power slowly using my variac. The TV sound works, tuner is working, no picture at all and no high voltage. Tested all the tubes and replaced the 2 that were bad. I agree that the caps need to be replaced, I just did not want to spend the money and time until I knew that the CRT was good.

I am looking at CRT testers, but in the mean time I will check voltages. I have the Photofact for it. The flyback is not melted or scorched so as long as the CRT is good I think I will get this one working.

Thank you for the suggestions on where to look first, I appreciate it.

[Popester]

Hopefully the flyback is okay. It looks a bit tired, don't see any wax drippings so that's good.

[static1701]

What do you guys think about the Sencore CR143? I like the ease of use of the Heathkit IT-5230 but I like that Sencore can clear shorts.

[bones007]

The stereos on these consoles can run anywhere according to RCA specs from 300 watts down to 40 watts ... most likely you are in the 40 watt range... how many speakers on each side? and what size ?