#16
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Well, i figured it would be some interest. the price they quoted me each was slightly less than what they retail for at Antique Electronic Supply.
i hate to restuff. i hate trying to fit caps under an already crammed chassis. id rather have the cans that can drop right in. and i rather not have my chassis look like some hack job with rerouted caps, etc. But i guess the rest of you dont. |
#17
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Quote:
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#18
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I join those who hate/won't bother restuffing capacitors, there is no way I would mess with that, not to mention, I can't imagine how you would do it and still have it looking factory. On a couple of sets I've been working on recently I had new can caps made by hayseedhamfest.com. They produced exactly what I needed, at a price similar to the CE cans and delivery was in less than one week of submitting a quote request. For some reason (blind prejudice) they have been trashed on here because they produce a few capacitors for audio equipment, although there main focus is replacement caps for ham radio equipment.
I think they are an excellent source for such parts. It is very unlikely you will find 50 people who are restoring a ctc-11, or whatever particular model. |
#19
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Would be nice if some company offered a "standard" size empty can with a four connection terminal board on the bottom with a can that screwed or snapped on so we could install what ever caps we wanted ourselves.
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#20
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Ive been saying the same think about the empty can for years.
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Audiokarma |
#21
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Here is a thread that I started on the AudioKarma site with pictures in June of 2012. It really isn't all that difficult and the results are excellent. The first one takes some time to get used to but it just works as they say.
Whether I restuff or place a terminal and use discrete capacitors depends on the "value" of the item being repaired. Restuffing those paper multi-section electrolytic capacitors can be a challenge. I have not tried it yet but have many awaiting the perfect way without destroying it. Read down through the post because there are many suggestions by other members. What is important to me is the steel "common" ring. They are almost always destroyed when you disassemble the capacitor. I have quite a few NOS electrolytic capacitors and I just cut one open to "steal" the unused steel ring. Also, NOS capacitors come with a new phenolic and steel mounting plate as well (usually). The first mistake that I made when rebuilding the first capacitor was drilling out the rivets on the Scott amplifier. If you have an NOS capacitor to get the steel ring out of, you can just remove all connections and then straighten out the tabs. If one breaks, no worries. Then, you just remount the newly rebuilt capacitor in the phenolic ring. I hope all of this makes sense. It sure makes for a nice looking job and after the first one, it will take less than an hour to do. Remember, you don't have to fill up the capacitor with tar or wax. Just support the new electrolytic capacitors with something so that they don't flop about. And, there is no real need to make the inside of the old can spotlessly clean. Who will see it? Does it matter? Well, of course not. The link: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.p...citors.448773/ |
#22
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I agree highly. Makes the job of stuffing a capacitor easy, keeps the set looking period correct. Win-Win for authenticity and functionality. Makes the set look way better.
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