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  #31  
Old 03-24-2017, 09:41 AM
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If the wire for the HV rect tube top cap is not too crispy then it is a trivial matter to change the top cap.....If the wire insulation is crispy 2-6 layers of heat shrink tubing over it ought to help.
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  #32  
Old 03-25-2017, 03:48 PM
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On the road home from Danny's now. Took him two hours of work to get the chassis working. Many pictures and updates to come.
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  #33  
Old 03-25-2017, 08:40 PM
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CTC-11 is back together and working perfectly.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0266.jpg (62.2 KB, 56 views)
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Last edited by TUD1; 04-10-2017 at 11:42 PM.
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  #34  
Old 03-25-2017, 10:19 PM
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Already starting to have a slightly annoying problem with this thing. The brightness and tint knobs are concentrically centred, and even though I put some lubrication in there, the two knobs are sticking together. And also the convergence has already drifted WAY off just in the two hours since I finished it. Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow afternoon.
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  #35  
Old 03-25-2017, 11:50 PM
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Seems odd that the convergence would go off on its own for no reason. Did you by any chance move the TV? Changing its orientation (for example, rotating 90 degrees in a room) can mess up the purity, as I learned once when I moved my first CTC-11. The result isn't the same as bad convergence, but it can give you some weird colors.

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  #36  
Old 03-26-2017, 09:26 AM
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That's one thing I've definitely noticed on these old sets. Once you get the convergence looking acceptable, expect to take the back off again very shortly. My Admiral and most other 60's sets do the same exact thing. What's really annoying is when you get it looking good, and mess with it to fix one little spot, and it throws the whole thing out of whack. Happened yesterday.
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  #37  
Old 03-26-2017, 11:10 AM
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The convergence cloverleaf can shift very easily on the smooth neck surface when you're moving those static magnets. I've seen where some techs wrap a layer or two of vinyl electrical tape around the area where the cloverleaf rests. Gives the cloverleaf something to bite into.
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  #38  
Old 03-26-2017, 11:35 AM
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Unfortunately, my mother is taking all day to be a social butterfly at my expense. Almost every Sunday, I get drugged to church and then out so she can socialize, so it will be many hours before I make it back home to work on the set. I wanted to change a picture tube today, but at this rate, I'll be happy to get home before 7.
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  #39  
Old 03-26-2017, 12:11 PM
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Looking at the pix in post 33, I would work on the vertical linearity first. Convergence at the top of the screen will likely be much better when the linearity problem is fixed.

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  #40  
Old 03-26-2017, 12:30 PM
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On the convergence panel there's a little selenium stack which is likely bad and can cause shifting-convergence woes. It's either 3 or 4 sections (can't remember which) and can be replaced with fast-switching type Si diodes.
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  #41  
Old 03-26-2017, 12:39 PM
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I adjusted the vertical linearity asbestos I could when I set it up.
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  #42  
Old 03-26-2017, 01:18 PM
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Got another 6EM7 to try?

jr
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  #43  
Old 03-26-2017, 02:42 PM
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I couldn't get the vertical linearity good on my CTC-11 until I recapped the vertical board:


Here's the whole restoration thread: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...ight=IsthmusTV

Congrats on yours! I'm glad your CRT is good.

Clark
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  #44  
Old 03-26-2017, 02:49 PM
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Yeah, that would probably help. Unfortunately, I have no components other than what I can get out of parts chassis. I'd be reluctant to use those crappy yellow caps in a sweep circuit of a TV. I've heard of people having problems with them. If I was going to really restore a set, I'd be using Sprague Orange Drops.
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  #45  
Old 03-26-2017, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
On the convergence panel there's a little selenium stack which is likely bad and can cause shifting-convergence woes. It's either 3 or 4 sections (can't remember which) and can be replaced with fast-switching type Si diodes.
Schottky? Got a type number you can recommend?
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