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  #16  
Old 08-22-2014, 10:01 AM
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I hate clowns!!! That tube would have freaked me the hell out - making me sell the set immediately! LOL!
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  #17  
Old 08-22-2014, 05:02 PM
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Hard to tell if it is a clown. It looks a little like the Quaker Oats guy, which would fit in with the (William?) Penn tube brand.
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  #18  
Old 08-22-2014, 05:25 PM
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The glass is -3dB.
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadlike View Post
Hard to tell if it is a clown. It looks a little like the Quaker Oats guy, which would fit in with the (William?) Penn tube brand.
We have a winner!
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2014, 05:43 PM
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OK, I'll take that answer

Encountered my first open power resistor so far and replaced it. Also finished up the sync separator, vertical oscillator and output in this corner.

This set is proving to be quite a challenge. I now have threes versions of the schematic and none quite match. They also really packed the components in.


Done with the sound IF, ratio detector and output amp too.
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Last edited by bandersen; 08-24-2014 at 01:50 AM.
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  #20  
Old 08-23-2014, 09:52 PM
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The glass is -3dB.
 
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Done with the sound IF, ratio detector and output amp too.
Done with the vintage table refinishing yet?
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  #21  
Old 08-23-2014, 10:59 PM
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Did you replace the grille cloth? Just noticing that the closeup picture shows the set with what looks like a gaping hole in the speaker area. Then the full view of the set there is no hole, but the cloth looks original.
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  #22  
Old 08-24-2014, 02:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubejunke View Post
Did you replace the grille cloth? Just noticing that the closeup picture shows the set with what looks like a gaping hole in the speaker area. Then the full view of the set there is no hole, but the cloth looks original.
The closeup is from a different set I grabbed off eBay to show what the missing knobs and control panel look like.

All I have at my place is the chassis.

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Originally Posted by NoPegs View Post
Done with the vintage table refinishing yet?
LOL Which one ? I'm just about done giving my danish modern coffee table a fresh lacquer recoat and rubbing out my Philco charside radio. Still haven't touched my vintage kitchen table
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Last edited by bandersen; 08-24-2014 at 02:08 AM.
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  #23  
Old 08-25-2014, 11:29 AM
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Horizontal circuits done. I like how they implemented the hor. linearity control at a right angle with a wingnut.

Should be ready for a power up soon...
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  #24  
Old 08-28-2014, 02:49 PM
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This sure has been a confusing chassis to work on but I'm getting close!

All the electrolytics have been rebuilt and I'm just waiting on some power resistors to arrive tomorrow.


Meanwhile, I'm cleaning up the corroded chassis.




I'm also reviewing all the components and finding some damage like this chipped ceramic disc.
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  #25  
Old 08-30-2014, 09:20 PM
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What do you use to cut open those multi-section electrolytics so neatly without removing them. Or maybe you did remove them, but I figure if you did and then rebuilt them then you would re install them as units.
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  #26  
Old 08-31-2014, 01:24 PM
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I actually did remove them which was quite easy to do.

Then heated them in the oven on the lowest setting to soften the tar holding the cardboard covers on.

Finally, used this fine toothed mini-hack to cut them open.

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  #27  
Old 08-31-2014, 08:25 PM
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Here's a closer look at one of the oddball resistors in this set. It's a Rosenthal which I think is German.

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Last edited by bandersen; 08-31-2014 at 08:28 PM.
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  #28  
Old 09-01-2014, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Here's a closer look at one of the oddball resistors in this set. It's a Rosenthal which I think is German.

I have Seen these in a couple of 1950 Admirals that i have worked on
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  #29  
Old 09-01-2014, 12:33 PM
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I noticed the yoke in your video has Y17 printed on it, so it's probably a Thordarson replacement. Far as I can tell a Y13 and Y17 are very close(both 70 degree) with the exception that the 17 has the octal plug attached.
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  #30  
Old 09-01-2014, 02:17 PM
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I've got the knobs and the control panel/nameplate you need. PM sent.
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