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  #76  
Old 02-03-2016, 02:04 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald View Post
Dave's is the correct saturation, the picture is just too blue.

But to all of you with these old TVs, let me admonish you,

PLEASE!! PLEASE!!!

One word!

Doilies!!!
Doilies are for old ladies! If you want to protect the finish of the cabinet top get a piece of glass cut to match the size and shape of the top and glue some small thin felt pads to the side of the glass that will be resting on the cabinet (one at each corner)....It is much better at preventing scratches and water marks, was used on fine furniture of the period, and looks 300% cooler.
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  #77  
Old 02-03-2016, 04:34 PM
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Restoring an admiral c322
 
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I have noticed that the hue of the colors shift over time while I am watching the set. I find myself having to adjust the hue control pretty often. I thought I heard somewhere that this was a problem with the CTC-5 even back in the 50's. Is this true? What causes this?
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RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #78  
Old 02-03-2016, 04:52 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Try tapping the burst amplifier tube with something like a screwdriver handle, while watching the display in a mirror.

BTW, a restored vintage TV is never 'finished'. It will always be a "work in progress".

Last edited by old_coot88; 02-03-2016 at 10:39 PM. Reason: TYPO
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  #79  
Old 02-03-2016, 06:29 PM
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Pentode section on the 6an8 burst amp tested borderline. Swapped it out for a better testing one. Helped a bit. Slowed down the rate of change of the hue. Still having to readjust the hue control a bit. What would cause this? I need to get this sorted out before the Super Bowl airs.
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring)
RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #80  
Old 02-03-2016, 08:05 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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When you say "hue", do flesh tones tones drift toward green or purple? Or does the tint of the overall raster drift?

Flesh tones are considered the standard for setting the mid point of the hue control (sometimes called tint control).
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  #81  
Old 02-03-2016, 08:56 PM
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Hue (Tint) drift can be due to one of the many cost cutting experiments in the CTC-5 Super chassis. They used burst injection to lock the local oscillator, rather than a phase-locked loop (PLL) with a phase detector and reactance tube. A PLL (as used in the Deluxe chassis and all subsequent chassis) can drive the static phase offset near to zero if it has sufficient loop gain, but the injection locked oscillator is more at the mercy of the oscillator drift with temperature, depending on the "Q" of the circuit and the injection level. So, increasing the burst injection level may improve things.

Years later, Norm Parker at Motorola analyzed the requirements for an injection lock circuit to perform as well as a PLL, and it was successfully used in some Motorola designs.
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  #82  
Old 02-04-2016, 06:27 PM
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AGC was not set properly. Turned that up to max and the picture looks BEAUTIFUL. No more tint/hue drift. Looks almost like my CTC-7!
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RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #83  
Old 02-05-2016, 09:49 AM
Tom9589 Tom9589 is offline
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The 3.58 MHz circuit on the CTC-5 looks a lot like the one in the GE Portacolor and some of the full sized GE color sets.

Increasing the AGC would most likely increase the burst which would help stabilize the 3.58 MHz oscillator.
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  #84  
Old 02-05-2016, 04:17 PM
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I noticed that on red colored objects there is a slight magenta glow on the border of the object not too noticeable but still a bit irritating. How do I adjust the flesh tones and get rid of that magenta glow that borders red objects?
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring)
RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #85  
Old 02-05-2016, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
I noticed that on red colored objects there is a slight magenta glow on the border of the object not too noticeable but still a bit irritating. How do I adjust the flesh tones and get rid of that magenta glow that borders red objects?
If you look closely you will probably see a slight greenish border on the opposite edge of the red objects. This is caused by phase distortion in the color signal and can be affected by IF alignment (especially the sound trap) and/or chroma bandpass alignment. Unless it is really bad, it may not be worth trying to redo the alignment, as you likely will find it's as good as possible already.
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  #86  
Old 02-07-2016, 01:31 PM
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Restoring an admiral c322
 
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Here is a video of the set. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W3kZNQPxbY
It looks a lot better in person since my camera isnt the best for recording. Cant seem to get decent lighting in the room either.
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring)
RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #87  
Old 02-07-2016, 05:04 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Nice work dude. Glad you changed your avatar. The old one was frankly a bit off-putting and could make a person less inclined to wanna participate in the thread.
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  #88  
Old 02-07-2016, 08:46 PM
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I just watched the video on YouTube, that looks great, good job!
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  #89  
Old 02-09-2016, 08:35 PM
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Restoring an admiral c322
 
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And a BIG thanks to all for the help they provided in helping me get this beautiful set running! Glad I was able to do more by myself with this restoration unlike my CTC-7 restoration. I'm starting to get the hang of this stuff.
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Admiral C322C2 Regent (Restoring)
RCA CTC-7 Pensbury (Restored)
RCA CTC-5 Westcott (Restored)
CRA CTC--4 Director 21 (Restoring)
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  #90  
Old 02-11-2016, 08:06 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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Hey now, that is looking good!
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