Why no love for this GE roundie ?

[tvcollector]

I don't need them I guess.. I wasn't sure if you sent them.. I could use them for later projects, so it doesn't hurt to have them.. Just let me know the total for the postage.. The thermistor is rated 1.2ohms cold.. I did order a 100ohm and 130ohm thermistor (in between) from mouser, which is arriving sometime today.... Moyers charged me $5 and change, but it's the same GE part number for the varistor..

[tvcollector]

Just received the order.. These thermistors they sent me are literally microscopic size.. Right Im going to install these into my set, you've got to be kidding me.. this is one reason I don't like ordering from mouser and digikey.. $20 wasted, again..

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...995-1DA101K-EC
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...key995-1DA131K

[zeno]

No question they are the wrong thing. At $20 worth
returning for a credit or refund. The smallest DGS thermistors
I have seen are dime sized used from the 70's up.

On a thermistor you can solder the lead back on in a pinch
& it will last a long time. I assume its the thermistor in your pix ?
The VDR is what burns. Workman used to sell the pair, IIRC
FR922. Ive seen them on e-bay but at a criminal price in the
$20 range. Almost any old set can be a donor for what you need.

73 Zeno

[zeno]

You can just jump the DGS coil out to work on the set
until you scare up the part.

73 agn Zeno

[tvcollector]

I have it jumped already with the two red wires until I get the right parts.. I got something else coming from Moyers, and this whole order from mouser is going to get returned... With the magic marker in place and the circuit functioning, after the set running for a bit I notice the varistor right next to it gets very hot, to the point that you can't touch it.. Not sure if it was like that before and it's normal.. I never looked into it before it became a problem..

[zeno]

Originally Posted by tvcollector

I have it jumped already with the two red wires until I get the right parts.. I got something else coming from Moyers, and this whole order from mouser is going to get returned... With the magic marker in place and the circuit functioning, after the set running for a bit I notice the varistor right next to it gets very hot, to the point that you can't touch it.. Not sure if it was like that before and it's normal.. I never looked into it before it became a problem..

The VDR is in series with the DGS coil. The thermistor in series
with the AC feeding the bridge. If the thermistor opens ALL the
current for B+ goes through the coil & VDR thus burning the VDR.
The thermistor normally goes to zero ohms when hot ( very fast).
When jumped the VDR shouldnt heat up at all.
BTW most newer sets just use a thermistor that OPENS when hot.
No VDR used, its all in series.
Also some use a DGS relay that closes for a short time so it
will DGS runs on every turn on. Some old sets also used a relay ( Admiral ).

73 Zeno

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by tvcollector

I don't need them I guess.. I wasn't sure if you sent them.. I could use them for later projects, so it doesn't hurt to have them.. Just let me know the total for the postage.. The thermistor is rated 1.2ohms cold.. I did order a 100ohm and 130ohm thermistor (in between) from mouser, which is arriving sometime today.... Moyers charged me $5 and change, but it's the same GE part number for the varistor..

1.2 ohms cold is wrong - Sams say that?

Moyers doesn't sell GE parts - your part will be a Workman replacement. They give that fact away in their part numbers on their website - look at the end of teach part number they list - it ends in either FRXXX or FSXXX which are Workman numbers.

I have a stock of Thermistors for my CTC16, but if I had to buy, I'd buy an FRTV kit - thermistor and varistor all in one. Onieda (GBTV) and MidAmco also made similar kits, and they are available online for 6 bucks or so - no guessing, no having to order both separately. One kit and done. Don't buy from the rip-off on eBay - that guy gets 25 bucks for thermistor kits, and you can't convince me it costs 19 bucks to ship.....

[tvcollector]

Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm

1.2 ohms cold is wrong - Sams say that?

Yes, Sams says that...

I did order some of these to have on hand.. One of those China auctions..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151545436512...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I spoke with Moyers on the phone.. They don't have the exact part number for the thermistor, but they have the value.. While speaking to him on the phone the other day, he had that Varistor GE part number in stock, he gave the specs and everything..

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by tvcollector

Yes, Sams says that...

I did order some of these to have on hand.. One of those China auctions..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151545436512...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I spoke with Moyers on the phone.. They don't have the exact part number for the thermistor, but they have the value.. While speaking to him on the phone the other day, he had that Varistor GE part number in stock, he gave the specs and everything..

What's the GE part number? Again, I have LOTS of GE parts - remember how I had the NOS coil you needed? It sat on a shelf with many other parts....

[tvcollector]

It's ET14X195 and the Varistor is the same number but with a 6 on the end instead of 5.. I remember, and was very fortunate you had that coil..

[Findm-Keepm]

195/196, use a Workman FRTV kit or GBTV kit- it has one FR191, and one FR066. $5.30 - 29.95, depending on where you buy the kit.

Moyers lists both of your part numbers on their website - but gives away that they will be Workman replacements, FR066 and FR191.

I don't have the GE parts, but found my GE to RCA cross (GE produced it when they bought RCA in 1985, to avoid stockage of RCA/GE dual-part numbered parts.) ET/EU14X195 is an RCA 107191 (notice the 191 in that part number and the Workman FR191 - they are the same), and RCA 114014 for the ET/EU14X196.

[tvcollector]

The Varisitor I got from Moyers that arrived today is a Workman.. He's able to look up replacement parts by the original part number..

I replaced the 13k 7watt resistor.. The HV is just slightly below the 25kv line now.. Still with HV control maxed out..

The vertical has slightly better range since I adjusted the vert linearity, Vert height control is adjusted around 95% for maximum height..

Is this all normal? Should I call this project mostly complete or are there other issues?

[tvcollector]

Got the tuner out, and the 6HQ5 tube that's right next to the UHF output which is RF Amp, is shorted, weak, and fails grid emissions.. I'm assuming that's why I'm having UHF problems.. Also the other tube with the shield all the way around it, I can't get to, to pull out.. I took some channel locks to try and remove the what looks like a top half of the metal shield and it didn't want to pull off.. I didn't try too hard because I'm not sure if that's how it comes off..

Update: Figured out the shield.. It slides down.. That tube is shorted, weak and fails grid emissions as well.. Both tubes are bad but VHF is fine..

I noticed that both channels 2 and 3 come in perfect as for picking up the signal from the cable box, which is set to channel 3..

[tvcollector]

I'll try asking this again...

Originally Posted by tvcollector

I replaced the 13k 7watt resistor.. The HV is just slightly below the 25kv line now.. Still with HV control maxed out..

The vertical has slightly better range since I adjusted the vert linearity, Vert height control is adjusted around 95% for maximum height..

Is this all normal? Should I call this project mostly complete or are there other issues?

[Electronic M]

If you can roll it either side of locked, and if the height/lin are correct on screen despite the controls being maxed I'd call it done (if it was not being repaired for someone else).
Component wear from use may improve control range or worsen it in the future, but if it broke don't fix it.

If it still bugs you, ohm out all resistors in the vertical stage and change all caps in that stage.