#16
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is that set the 13" twin to the ECR2100D ?
silver front, red led channel readout? |
#17
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It does have a silver front, red LED readout (which doesn't work for some reason), and I know that my TV and the one you mentioned share the same remote control, so I'm pretty sure its the same set.
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#18
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I have both sets. The 2100d is in home and works fine. The 13 inch set has been in
The garage on a shelf for years. Other than size they appear identical cosmetically anyway. Don't remember if little one works or not. I'd gladly give it away if I could figure a way to ship it. Most shippers could destroy a blacksmith's anvil. |
#19
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Quote:
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#20
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I looked in my Dad's Sams - C507 seems to be a common culprit, and for a dead set, check R502.
Dad had a habit of circling components on the Sams to check first - and by the look of the folder, those Emersons gave him lots of business. The folder also has his business rubber stamp on the front, meaning he lent it out at one time to another shop - his way of getting his folders back. Cheers,
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Thanks for the pointer; that is definitely one of the caps I am going to replace, and I'll check that resistor, too. Interestingly, the set now will come on, but it still is extremely temperamental about staying on.
Last edited by technoman9; 03-18-2012 at 03:38 PM. |
#22
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my Emerson had a few bulging Samyoung capacitors in the power supply which I replaced. If you see these brand of capacitors in yours it'd be worthwhile to change them out.
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#23
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Hey guys, just checking in to let you know I haven't fallen off the planet. My undergradutate research has just finished, so I now have a little more time to spare in between my classwork. I am going to order the new caps soon; as far as I can tell, there are only two or three electrolytics in the power supply, so I'll replace those first. I am assuming that polyester-type caps generally don't need replacing, since most of my research has indicated that only electrolytics are problematic.
I'll keep you posted as new developements occur. |
#24
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Well, bad news guys. I finally had time to put in the new caps tonight and they did not fix the problem. The set still turns on (which hopefully means that my solder connections were good) but it clicks back off after a second or so, with the flyback transformer making a soft clicking noise until I physically turnoff the set. This is the same as before.
Does anyone have any other suggestions, or know where I might be able to find a flyback transformer? |
#25
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Did you ever re-solder the large capacitors on the power supply? They were so heavy that they would crack their connections and cause the set to shut down.
I've had one Emerson set fry the flyback, and it caused to FBT to burst open in the middle. If it's making HV, I'd be thinking the FBT was probably allright. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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Actually, the capacitors that I replaced were the largest ones, so they now have clean solder joints. I did spy a couple other smaller caps that might need replacing, though.
That good news that the FBT might not be shot; it definitely wants to turn on, just doesn't seem to have enough juice for it, like it runs out of voltage. And when I start it on my "variac", it turns on and stays on at a lower voltage. I'll keep double-checking the chassis; if anyone has other suggestions, I'll be happy to hear them. |
#27
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"Did you ever re-solder the large capacitors on the power supply? They were so heavy that they would crack their connections and cause the set to shut down."
Actually, now that I thought about your comment, I only re-soldered the electrolytic caps. There were some non-electrolytics that may have a bad connection. I'll double-check it as soon as I get a chance. I wish we could upload videos, because a video could capture what I'm hearing. I hear that very high-pitched sound that a TV emits while its on, which I think is the HV, so I know she's trying, but something is shutting it back down. |
#28
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when looking at the circuit board does it look warped or bowed anywhere, i had a freind of mines do what your describing and also worked ok on lower voltage . look around real good and see if there are any componets been replaced before you like diodes and transister's ,esp. around flyback area, alot of time you tell the parts from the factory all look like they came from same supplier . if you find any diode's or any semiconductors that look like from radio shack or they dont match the rest before you do anything more write back and tell me and what section they are in.
Last edited by snelson903; 06-23-2012 at 09:04 AM. |
#29
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Always look for discolored connections, especially around the sweep circuits and power supply. I cant remember, does this set have a little regulator on a heat sink? If it does, resolder those connections and the heat sink connections. I remember an Emerson chassis that would shut down with this. It's running at reduced voltages and staying on. I think a B+ is going high and shutting it down. Check voltages on the output of the regulator.
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#30
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Will do. I'll get back to you guys as soon as I have a chance to get back into the set.
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Audiokarma |
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