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  #91  
Old 06-11-2018, 10:31 AM
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old_tv_nut old_tv_nut is offline
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standard values:
https://ecee.colorado.edu/~mcclurel/...orsandcaps.pdf
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  #92  
Old 06-11-2018, 07:04 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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thanks everyone!!

PS, just checked schematic, old tv nut was correct.
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  #93  
Old 07-04-2018, 08:05 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albanks View Post
Thanks for the answer. I have been busy but am getting around to fixing my TV's. I am back to the '71 as I study more about the '65 HV cup swap out.

Anyway, this '71 is driving me nuts! I just replaced the fuse and a bunch of other stuff Sam's recommended when there is no raster, no sound.

Now nothing has ever been wrong with this set, then one day the volume and on/off knob fell off and ever since then all hell has broken loose! I had to glue it back in but I thought nothing of this at the time but ever since a couple of days after I did that, I get no picture or sound when turning on this set. But today, I got mad and flicked the on knob with my finger and it turned on. Then I tapped the other side (see pictures, I don't know terminology) and it turned on again.

Also, please see video. What the hell is that? If I rock it, it turns on and off while it is powered on? If I set the set upright it won't power on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrJn6KWhzq0

Thoughts?
Can we revisit this? I tried everything. Can someone give me more information on either the contacts/switches being bad and how to troubleshoot that, or how to wire it to always be on (and turn it on/off via plugging it in or out). I tried everything at my disposal and cannot lick this problem.

Thanks.
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  #94  
Old 07-04-2018, 09:52 AM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Just solder a jumper (wire) across the switch to make it be 'on' permanently.

But from the video, it looks like the break may be in the cord or the safety interlock.
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  #95  
Old 07-04-2018, 10:57 AM
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^^^ Yes. Before assuming it's the on-off switch, try holding the chassis steady so the set is on and flex the power cord to see if that's the problem. If it's not the cord/connection then proceed to check / bypass the on-off switch.
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  #96  
Old 07-04-2018, 11:30 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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The problem is in the power cord/safety interlock. I can tilt tv to the right nothing happens, tilt to the left it shuts off. Wiggle cord it goes on or off. Anyone feeling generous enough to provide lay person instructions to fix this? It would be nice to get this set back on playing Columbo again.
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  #97  
Old 07-04-2018, 11:34 AM
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With the set unplugged you can also chase that power wiring problem with a DMM....If you have a DMM with beep mode on continuity and aligator clip leads you can hook it across a suspected intermitent wire/connection/switch/etc. and flex said suspected part and look for the beep of life to stop.
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  #98  
Old 07-04-2018, 11:39 AM
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Since you posted while I was writing more info: If you have a spare cord you can try swapping it. You can also do a continuity check on the cord with a DMM. It is possible the cord is fine and the interlock bad, but cord problems are more common. If either cord or interlock is bad you will have to get a replacement for what is bad. There are ways to kludge normal cords on and defeat the interlock, but that is a really crappy way to do it (something to do only as a temporary solution while you hunt the right parts).
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  #99  
Old 07-04-2018, 11:52 AM
albanks albanks is offline
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Thanks guys. OK, definitely not the cord, tried a few different ones. I don't understand what's happening when I lift the set up and down to make it go on and off. I will have to keep searching.
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  #100  
Old 07-04-2018, 03:57 PM
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You might have a cold solder joint somewhere on the chassis. You could with a magnifier have a look at solder connections and look for really small cracks at any connection points. You are probably making connection when turning. You could also look at the solder connections on the switch itself and see if they look alright.
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  #101  
Old 07-05-2018, 03:55 PM
zeno zeno is offline
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The on/off switch on these just have 2 wires going to the rear
of the on/off/vc you can hook the two wires together & prove
the switch good or bad.

Now look at how the main chassis is built. Terminal strips soldered
onto the steel chassis.
The ends are soldered, sometimes they are soldered along the strip &
and at most tube sockets.
Those are used as common ground often. They do loosen up
especially on certain chassis & cause int problems. This chassis wasnt
known for it BUT it can happen. If you probe at them with a screw driver
& they show a break resolder them.

BTW this set has a simple SPST switch. Many others had gang switches
with as many as 4 switches & 2 pots. Maggy & Admiral come to mind.
Sometimes the switches were NO & NC. "Jumping" them out can
get much more complex.

73 Zeno
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  #102  
Old 07-07-2018, 05:49 PM
albanks albanks is offline
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Thanks everyone for the help. Well, guys I don't know what to say. I tried everything. I was most excited about the cold solder joint theory as my soldering is sloppy and it made the most sense. It almost paid off, but then it didn't. I might just put this set on the backburner until I can meet some people who can help me in real life. For now, the '65 is more promising to work on.
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