|
|
|
|
|
#1
05-09-2013, 05:50 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
I doubt I will use it more than once though. 
|
|
#2
05-08-2013, 11:29 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I like the B&K 467 / 470. It doesn't whack the heck out of the cathode; the way the 465 did, but honestly I've never had a Beltron, and don't know what method it uses. The 467 heats the tube, then gently does a burn-off of the cathode as the filaments cool. No loud pops, and in stead of a big yellow flash, there's a corona-like arc that you can see, as the oxidation falls away from the cathode coating.
Charles
__________________
Collecting & restoring TVs in Los Angeles since age 10
|
|
#4
05-10-2013, 04:41 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
 I more or less did this procedure (killing the Beltron after a second of the lights lighting up) by accident, in that when I saw those light light up, I pulled the cable going to the CRT from the plug on the Beltron. I wasn't sure what the lights meant. And then set the heater back down, and did a test and the CRT was alive again. I read and reread the instructions (all 3 pages of it) but I must have missed it, the instructions saying to shut it down once the lights light up... This is my first CRT, so there is this learning curve...
__________________
|
|
#5
05-09-2013, 06:32 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Well considering the options available I think you should try a radical approach.
If I had a 15G in the condition you have, I would try this: Build a box the tube can fit in comfortably, make it capable of sealing, vacuum tight, and make it heat resistant to 300 degrees f. Metal box??? Glass??? Put ac air conditioner fitting on it, and get a cheap deep cycle vacuum pump. and good digital gauge. $400. you could resell later. Seal it up and apply vacuum and be sure it holds vacuum for a few days with no leaks. Then for a period of one year keep a full deep vacuum 200 microns of less, and keep it heated at least 200 degrees to get out any water vapors. After one year of this treatment remove the tube and test it, if there is significant improvement then seal it with that vacseal at all known leak points. If no improvement oh-well it was dead anyway.
__________________
Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy"
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#6
05-09-2013, 11:09 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#7
05-09-2013, 08:44 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
From the Department of Nutty Ideas, Podunk, MD division...knowing almost nothing about such matters...can a crt be rigged to run with a vacuum pump in place and running? I recall reading about a projection system that worked this way.
__________________
Bryan
|
|
#8
05-09-2013, 10:26 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hi All;
I am intrigued by Squirrels Idea, But, I can't Imagine what my Electric Bill would look like each month, from running the Heat Oven, even as low as 200 degrees.. I have a 10BP4 that possibly could use that treatment, but it might be a low emission Cathode.. I think my other 10BP4 though is just dead.. Not to say anything about what and where would I get the Vacuum pump assembly.. THANK YOU Marty
|
|
#9
05-09-2013, 12:27 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
For what it's worth We used to lay the crt facedown so when you hit the rejuv button any of the crud that flew off the gun assembly would fall down toward the screen instead of flying around the gun assembly and causing problems later.
__________________
[IMG]
|
|
#10
05-09-2013, 01:03 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
for what its worth II, If a vacuum is generated in a system not leaking and holds, then the pump is only running a short time each week, to deep vacuum what is coming from the tube. Heat need not be constant, but possibly only a few hours at a time since you would be aiding what the vacuum pump is doing. Lets say you sat it out in the sun each day and did it only in the summer, so 6 months not a full year. Or built a solar hot box, build more heat than just sitting in a sunny spot. My solar panels easily put out over 115 in the summer when they are much less efficient. You would only need to supply a small amount of additional heat, possibly a 100w light bulb or two's worth.
I reclaimed an open to the atmosphere 3 ton A/C unit and vacuumed it down to where my gauge didn't even begin to register daily for a few days during the hot summer days so the heat of the day would aid in removing the moisture from inside the unit. After a week I had it down to less than 200 microns and held since. Seems to reason, with a leaking tube but still getting some emissions, you may have something that can be reversed, and recovered, if the idea were given a test. Since the 15G Has a unique problem of slow leaking, then restoration of vacuum would need to be done slowly over time. If it works, then you also have a few hours to coat it with a known sealer. 200 degrees is achievable and much safer than much higher temps. I would imagine since the tube has not just been rebuilt, then removal of some materials that would vaporize at higher temps would not be necessary, it would just need removal of standard atmospheric elements. Like water vapor. Imagine if it could be done and worked...... A few 15g's out there in this condition..... No face cracking chance..... complete implosion........ The worst thing you might need to do then, which I would try instead of a rejuvenation attempt, especially since it involves raising the heater voltage, which by the way heaters exposed to higher voltage in a less than perfect vacuum will surely fry, the thing to try would be reactivating the getters with one of those rf getter coils and see if you can use that to take care of anything left in the tube that needs gettin'
__________________
Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 05-09-2013 at 01:17 PM.
|
| Audiokarma |
|
#11
05-09-2013, 03:10 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Fun stuff to think about...BUT the usual mechanical pump used to pump out AC systems before recharge is orders of magnitude poorer than the vacuum needed inside a properly processed CRT. About 10 to the -6 torr is necessary, and that's before getter flash!
jr
|
|
#12
05-09-2013, 04:14 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
yup, you are right..... But an A/C pump is only $200. and can be resold. A Diffusion pump is tons more and not easily resold. Besides when I was a kid I made light bulbs with a small wire, a jar, a piece of plastic, and a candle to burn out the air inside the setup, sealed with wet wax. So I would imagine a A/C vacuum pump can come closer to a good usable vacuum level than a candle, again worth the experiment.
And if the tv museum got the crt rebuilding stuff, then they got a diffusion pump, and a getter coil.... It can all be done there with that stuff...... The diffusion pump would almost guarantee a good tube if this were to work. I guess that pump could be used on the last day of vacuuming out the enclosure..... What kind of equipment do you think they had to make the first light bulb, or tube.... Not the best since they were pioneers. I bet with a leaking bad tube, a way can be found, or should be tried to fix it without cracking it open. Should be worth the experiment. The result will surely not be perfect, but will not crack the tube, or contaminate the inside of the tube.
__________________
Yes you can call me "Squirrel boy" Last edited by Username1; 05-09-2013 at 04:26 PM.
|
|
#14
05-10-2013, 01:39 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
One less Rube Goldberg-esq method I've heard of that was supposedly successful in fixing a gassy 15GP22 was to run the filament continuously for over a year to boil the crud off the cathode and cause the gas to move more so as to get it to hit the getters and be absorbed....I'm tempted to try it on my gassy 21AXP22.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4
|
|
#15
05-10-2013, 08:21 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
| Audiokarma |
 |
|
|
Hybrid Mode
