found a 1960s Philco Portable TV today at the Antique Mall!

[Captainclock]

Hello Everyone, today I was browsing at one of the local antique malls and I was browsing through the booths and sure enough in the 3rd to the last booth in the store I find for $15 a 1960s vintage Philco 19" portable B&W TV that I picked up and brought home as a possible future project. As soon as I got home I plugged the set in and turned it on the TV came right up like it was supposed to with exception to a horizontal line in the middle of the screen (I have a picture of what the TV is doing) I kind of suspect that its a vertical stage issue (e.g. bad vertical amp tube or something like that) but from what little I could see of the picture tube in its fully collapsed state it looked pretty bright yet like it might of been a low hours set (the cabinet is in near mint condition as well except a little wear around the VHF tuning knob) other than that the original bunny ears are still intact not broken, and the cabinet is nearly flawless minus the yellowing of the plastic.
I have pictures of the unit and also I noticed that its a slim-line model (its less than a foot deep as can be seen in the pictures.)

Any help, advice or information about this TV would be wonderful.

Thanks,

Levi

UDATE: I opened the back of this TV Set and apparently this TV has never been opened as it still had all of its original Philco branded tubes in the set yet. I checked the 6FD7 tube that operates the Vertical amp and vertical output stage of the TV and sure enough it tested completely dead on the tube tester, and when I looked at the getter material, it was completely gone, as it had apparently gone to air at some point in time (there was a faint white outline where the getter material used to be.) SO I think this is why the TV had no vertical deflection. Its a cold chassis design that utilizes a 6BQ5 tube for the audio output stage and has the option for a remote control (has markings moulded into the back cover that says something about a remote control switch of some sort (which isn't there in this case.) Apparently this was a higher end set for the time period?

[Electronic M]

Turn the brightness down or you will burn that line into the phosphors permanently! The reason that line is so bright is that the energy that would be dispersed over 525 lines is being concentrated on only one....The phosphor is not meant to handle that much energy hitting it! Turn the brightness all the way down (if that extinguishes the line turn it back up until the line is visible again but dim) until you fix the vertical.
Even weak tubes can produce a bright line, you will know it is a good tube once you fix the vertical.

Tubes can be an issue, but bad capacitors, and resistors are a more common cause of vertical deflection failure....I hope the vertical output transformer and yoke are good, they are not the most common cause of that type of failure, but still a possible cause, and often hard to get replacements for in many sets.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Turn the brightness down or you will burn that line into the phosphors permanently! The reason that line is so bright is that the energy that would be dispersed over 525 lines is being concentrated on only one....The phosphor is not meant to handle that much energy hitting it! Turn the brightness all the way down (if that extinguishes the line turn it back up until the line is visible again but dim) until you fix the vertical.
Even weak tubes can produce a bright line, you will know it is a good tube once you fix the vertical.

Tubes can be an issue, but bad capacitors, and resistors are a more common cause of vertical deflection failure....I hope the vertical output transformer and yoke are good, they are not the most common cause of that type of failure, but still a possible cause, and often hard to get replacements for in many sets.

I just updated this thread and I stated that it was due to a bad Vertical Output/Vertical Amp tube, also I didn't leave that set on for very long only for a few seconds to get the picture and to test it and that's it, I immediately turned it off afterwards. Do you honestly think I'm stupid enough to not know about Picture tube burn in?

[rca2000]

A COLD set? how about a picture of the chassis?

[Captainclock]

Yes, this is a cold chassis set, it has a rather large power transformer in the back of the set near where the power cord interlock plugs into the chassis. I'll get you a picture of the guts of the TV. Does anyone here know anything about this old Philco set?

[rca2000]

Not to bad...not bad at ALL !!

Does it use a tube B+ rect...or diodes ?

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by rca2000

Not to bad...not bad at ALL !!

Does it use a tube B+ rect...or diodes ?

It uses 2 silicone diodes for the rectifier.
All it needs is a new 6FD7 tube and it should be back up and running again.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Captainclock

Do you honestly think I'm stupid enough to not know about Picture tube burn in?

Honestly, given some of the blatantly wrong info you've posted in the past as fact, the way you busted the controls on that Magnavox, etc....You come across as a green thinks-they-know-it-all upstart (no offense that is just the impression you give), and with those types I've found it is safest to never assume they know any specific thing until they prove otherwise.

Always be humble, and never think too highly of your self or your knowledge, because the moment you forget that there is always someone somewhere that will knock you off your perch/poke a hole in your ego, (and those that can and would help you, won't bother)....That is a lesson I've learned the hard way.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Honestly, given some of the blatantly wrong info you've posted in the past as fact, the way you busted the controls on that Magnavox, etc....You come across as a green thinks-they-know-it-all upstart (no offense that is just the impression you give), and with those types I've found it is safest to never assume they know any specific thing until they prove otherwise.

Always be humble, and never think too highly of your self or your knowledge, because the moment you forget that there is always someone somewhere that will knock you off your perch/poke a hole in your ego, (and those that can and would help you, won't bother)....That is a lesson I've learned the hard way.

Well sorry to burst your bubble sir, but I DO know about how TV screens can get burned in, In fact I've known about it for years, ever since I've first used CRT Computer monitors I've known about that issue. And considering that I successfully got an early 1960s Setchell Carlson TV up and running yesterday all by myself WITHOUT damaging anything, (if you would of paid attention to my thread I posted about it yesterday) maybe now you can eat a bit of humble pie yourself, considering you were just trying to suggest that I don't know anything about what I'm doing! I'm not going to argue this point with you anymore because its pointless to do so, so either contribute helpful, useful information, or don't contribute to this thread at all! I don't need people trolling in my threads!!

[Kamakiri]

Originally Posted by Captainclock

Well sorry to burst your bubble sir, but I DO know about how TV screens can get burned in, In fact I've known about it for years, ever since I've first used CRT Computer monitors I've known about that issue. And considering that I successfully got an early 1960s Setchell Carlson TV up and running yesterday all by myself WITHOUT damaging anything, (if you would of paid attention to my thread I posted about it yesterday) maybe now you can eat a bit of humble pie yourself, considering you were just trying to suggest that I don't know anything about what I'm doing! I'm not going to argue this point with you anymore because its pointless to do so, so either contribute helpful, useful information, or don't contribute to this thread at all! I don't need people trolling in my threads!!

Tom would just as soon post what he did about screen burn on a thread of mine just as he would yours. Part of the reason is because he's responding as well to anyone who picks this thread up in a Google search in the future that might have this set with this issue, and NOT know what you know.

There are a lot of people here who know a lot more than you, or I, do, about television repair. Getting a Setchell Carlson going that was previously restored, with a few tweaks, was a good thing. Here, you will find that humility, patience, and the willingness to learn will go quite far.

That said, chill out, and let's put this train back on the rails.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by Kamakiri

Tom would just as soon post what he did about screen burn on a thread of mine just as he would yours. Part of the reason is because he's responding as well to anyone who picks this thread up in a Google search in the future that might have this set with this issue, and NOT know what you know.

That said, chill out, and let's put this train back on the rails.

I know and that's what I was trying to do. I realize he was just trying to help but he could of been a little less rude about it. That being said I didn't leave the TV on in that condition for very long at the most 10 seconds which wouldn't of been enough time to burn in the screen the screen would of had to of been on for like 10-15 minutes before it would of done any major damage to the screen.
That being said I would love to learn a little more about this particular model of TV as far as an exact year of manufacture, and also how high end of a unit this would of been, I know it would of had to of been a fairly high end unit for it to of used a 6BQ5 audio output tube in it and for it to be a cold chassis designed unit and also for it to of had both UHF and VHF on it (it said on the tube chart that it could of been a VHF only model which means this TV must date to between 1958-1963 which was before the UHF mandate for tvs.) Also I noticed (and it can be seen in how shallow the cabinet is compared to others from the time period) that it has the 110 degree deflection type tube in it.

[Electronic M]

Some CRTs (non-aluminized and projection tubes especially) will burn in under 30 seconds, especially if the HV is over 18KV and the gun is biased for high beam current.......High enough beam current and you can burn that line in to the face in under a second....It is hard to tell the amount of beam current in a photo, just as it's hard to tell tone in a post (given your odd cagey reaction to my first one), and it's better on a CRT to turn the brightness down for a dim line the moment you realize one of the sweeps ain't working, than to risk it......Hell, when I do a gray scale on a color set with the min brightness setting and the service switch flipped I don't waste any time in turning all the screens down if any are at all bright. CRTs are a scarce finite commodity and should be treated with as much care as possible.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Captainclock

It uses 2 silicone diodes for the rectifier.
All it needs is a new 6FD7 tube and it should be back up and running again.

I would've bought that set, myself. It was the TOTL for a 19" that year.
If you have a 6DR7, IIRC it is a sub for the 6FD7. At least, you could try it, until you get the FD.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Some CRTs (non-aluminized and projection tubes especially) will burn in under 30 seconds, especially if the HV is over 18KV and the gun is biased for high beam current.......High enough beam current and you can burn that line in to the face in under a second....It is hard to tell the amount of beam current in a photo, just as it's hard to tell tone in a post (given your odd cagey reaction to my first one), and it's better on a CRT to turn the brightness down for a dim line the moment you realize one of the sweeps ain't working, than to risk it......Hell, when I do a gray scale on a color set with the min brightness setting and the service switch flipped I don't waste any time in turning all the screens down if any are at all bright. CRTs are a scarce finite commodity and should be treated with as much care as possible.

...

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I would've bought that set, myself. It was the TOTL for a 19" that year.
If you have a 6DR7, IIRC it is a sub for the 6FD7. At least, you could try it, until you get the FD.

I thought about that but sadly enough I pretty much had every single tube that this TV needed in my tube stash except the 6FD7 or its subs...