#16
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Sorry, those wedges aren't what I meant. My set didn't have the wedges (perhaps they are missing). What I'm talking about is the part that you stick between the yoke and the neck on the opposite end of the yoke that keeps the yoke from sliding back. In other words, the part you have to remove in order to slide the yoke off the tube, as shown below.
The yoke cover is OK. It had some white crystals on it which I've brushed/scraped off. Looks much better now. |
#17
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Quote:
The newer color set wedges should work for this app. Just set the yoke & jam in a few but watch that cover ! They are known to disintergrate when old. BTW the wedges you want go under the sides of the yoke & are for set-up. Often they fall out & are found laying on the chassis. 73 Zeno |
#18
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Yeah, I'm used to yokes clamping to the neck with a screw as well through my arcade monitor work.
I'm not sure wedges will fit because the difference in diameter between the crt neck and the yoke hole is pretty small. If it's basically impossible to find a replacment of this style then I'll probably have to come up with a creative way to fix the position of the yoke. |
#19
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My lack of TV sound seems to be due to my sound IF tube because the getter flash has turned white. I have a new one ordered.
My picture is a tad wide. How do people typically go about correcting width problems? Looking for out of spec caps/resistors in the horizontal output circuit? Tweaking certain cap/resistor values slightly in that circuit (i.e. not going with factory values)? Or is the common thinking basically just "you get what you get" unless the width is WAY off? I'm used to adjusting width coils and/or tweaking width cap values on arcade monitors and I like to get them dialed in "perfectly" so perhaps my expectations are too high for a 50's TV? |
#20
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If there ain't a width control, there probably was a width sleeve (a copper tube that would be slid between the yoke and neck to reduce the effectiveness of the horizontal yoke winding)....I would not tweak values, but looking for a weaker horizontal output tube and damper may help things.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#21
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It doesn't have either, but I found this page so it looks like it would be an easy solution here. http://antiqueradio.org/CapehartFarn...Television.htm
Thanks a lot for the suggestion! |
#22
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Victory! I received a new tube from AES today to fix my lack of TV sound and now it works! The only thing that remains on this unit is the turntable, but since I have no pressing use for it, I'm going to bring the TV into the house to enjoy some B&W TV/movies with the family before I start worrying about the turntable.
My parents are coming for a visit in a few weeks and I'm really looking forward to experiencing the time warp with them as well since they were growing up when this TV was manufactured. Hopefully they get a big kick out of it! I still need to try the copper width sleeve idea. I've got some copper tape somewhere. I'm not sure if it's wide enough but it is at least something to try. |
#23
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All consumer sets are built to overscan. They are not regulated
so the B+ can vary a lot at different times of day. If someone saw the width come in they would think it broken. Also keep in mind what you are feeding it, the width could be OK but the source cutting it off. Almost all Zenith B&W's had a width sleeve A.K.A. lin sleeve. Also if your yoke is "standard" you can get a cover off a NOS or old one that has a screw. 73 Zeno |
#24
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That's a great point about B+ that hadn't occurred to me, coming from the arcade hobby where monitors always have regulated B+. The width isn't wildly off, but nevertheless my OCD drives me to try to optimize it if possible. If trial and error with how much I could reduce the width without ever seeing the edges appear when B+ droops resulted in a 50% improvement, why not? But ultimately I could certainly live with it as is.
I don't know if my yoke is "standard" or not. Should I post a pic with the yoke cover removed? Alternatively, what about wrapping the neck with tape to give it a tighter fit? It seems like that could be the easiest solution, with the obvious condition that it could still be jarred out of place. I've seen I think both TV's and arcade monitors with cloth tape on the necks (not as the sole means of securing the yokes obviously). If so, would there be any concern of the type of tape used due to heat, conductivity, etc.? I think all I've got at home currently is duct tape and blue painter's tape so if the choice was irrelevant I'd probably just wrap it with the painter's tape, but I don't want to discover later on that it was a bad idea. Your input and advice is appreciated. I'm really loving the learning in this hobby. |
#25
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Quote:
clip on with a few tabs, you may have to mod that ? You can also look for a 3 or 4 digit EIA number on the yoke, that tells who made it. Its often combined with other numbers/letters for date code, part number etc.... Tape I have seen usually on Jap & ROK sets is cloth. Cloth black tape may be OK. I dont know why its there, for friction ? Most sets dont have it. BTW some in-line CRT's have a strip magnet around the neck. Do not remove ! 73 Zeno |
Audiokarma |
#26
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The yoke diameter (of the part that the cover goes on) is 3 1/8" and the neck diameter is 1 7/16".
Attached are the numbers on the yoke. My yoke cover also has centering rings so if there is a yoke cover with a neck clamp that would work, hopefully it also has the rings. As an aside, I had a bit of a scare last night. We were all watching this TV when suddenly the picture turned into a bunch of jagged lines in the center of the screen and the sound turned into noise. Fortunately I shut the power off quickly enough to prevent lasting damage. As it turned out, the yoke wires drooped onto the top of the horizontal output tube and it started shorting through the wires! I was heartbroken until I found out it didn't actually cause damage. |
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