#16
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check the HOT grid voltage and a scope if you have one. shold be around -50v and PP around 170vdc
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#17
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300 ma? Holy makrel! Are you using a digital or analog meter?
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#18
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I am using a digital meter. The grip voltage is -46v and PP 145v
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#19
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just to be safe, bypass the meter with a .47 cap. 300ma is way out of whack.
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#20
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horz eff coil has no effect, something not right there. I prefer analog meters for looking for the dip, its a tuned circuit, so it will have a narrow range.
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Audiokarma |
#21
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That would be a good ring test candidate flyback. Could this be an issue with those damper diodes? or a bad effency coil? Something is WAY off for it to be that high.
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#22
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I just used an analog meter and it is also 300 ma. The current (238-250 ma) is controllable when the tv is just starting to warm up but after the HO tube gets good and hot it jumps up to 300ma and I can't turn it down.
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#23
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hmmm gassey HOT. do you have another you can sub?
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#24
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I can't see why it would "jump" 50+ma. I would monitor the grid voltage. Also did you check the voltages of the regulator tube?
what I like to do is get the HV prob, the scope, the vtvm, the cathode current meter and hook it all up. then start up and see whats going on. |
#25
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Quote:
does that jump come after the HV and CRT brightness are already up? |
Audiokarma |
#26
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The tube will pretty much max out and red plate at 300. I bet its just thermal runaway. Its starting off to high. If C76 is leaky it can cause this.
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#27
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Although the dual damper diode may check good, how hot is it running? Is it sizzling hot? (Asked previously).
oc |
#28
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Sorry about the dual damper diode. It does not get hot.
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#29
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I looked at the dual damper diode again and they do hot and they look like they are causing the high HO cathode current and the B+ boost problem also. What is the data on them. I have 1 with the code IOR D818 and 2 other ones with the code 010 7142 SCI.
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#30
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Quote:
oc |
Audiokarma |
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