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  #16  
Old 03-12-2015, 03:01 PM
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Thanks Phil! Yes, I had been reading your excellent notes. BTW, I also have a '41 Philco BOL... (no remote with mine but a nice radio). And I will probably be picking everyone's brain as I go along. I'm strictly amateur and learning as a go (over the past several decades)
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  #17  
Old 03-12-2015, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve D. View Post
I know RCA offered several optional base units for their various 50's era table model color sets. How do you know this isn't an RCA option?

-Steve D.
Wow, so maybe it is stock. I was thinking it probably wasn't because the gold V on it is flat and looks like a knock-off. And, unlike RCA V's, it was glued to the grill cloth rather than pinned. the base is print on hardboard too but the TV is veneer.
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  #18  
Old 03-12-2015, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy View Post
I'm AMAZED to see a pre-1960 set show up in Texas.
Andy, I actually have 2 (well, my CTC9A - Darcy is from early 1960) from this area. The Darcy lived in River Oaks and it looks like this one was in Montrose but I found it down near NASA. There has always been a lot of money in Houston. It isn't like in the northeast but we have our bits and pieces that turn up.
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2015, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy View Post
I'm AMAZED to see a pre-1960 set show up in Texas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
I wonder if the battery is that crazy XX9 type. The used them in the first GE transistor radio. Three prong plug and a nine volt tap.
I need to pull it to double check but I believe it is. I think it only runs on one tap though so probably at the full 13.5 volts. It would be too convenient if it ran on the 9v tap! So far, I haven't found much on the remote. Looks like the "sound" may just be a mute. Not sure about the "picture" buttons since they are locking. it may just be on/off mute and channel select. If so, it has one heck of a big sub chassis for it!
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  #20  
Old 03-12-2015, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald View Post
Why? At least in the Ft. Worth-Dallas area, which was was among the
very first to have color programming on every day. From 1954!

I actually appeared on a local color show in 1954 or maybe early 1955.
A kiddie's show.
That would be WBAP-TV in Ft.Worth. Here's their color logo I.D. from the 50's

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  #21  
Old 03-13-2015, 01:23 AM
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Last edited by andy; 11-20-2021 at 03:38 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-13-2015, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald View Post
Why? At least in the Ft. Worth-Dallas area, which was was among the
very first to have color programming on every day. From 1954!

I actually appeared on a local color show in 1954 or maybe early 1955.
A kiddie's show.
Wow! You are a very important showman here on Videokarma, if you appeared in those years in a color show! Let we know something of more!
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  #23  
Old 03-13-2015, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by CTC9A View Post
I need to pull it to double check but I believe it is. I think it only runs on one tap though so probably at the full 13.5 volts. It would be too convenient if it ran on the 9v tap! So far, I haven't found much on the remote. Looks like the "sound" may just be a mute. Not sure about the "picture" buttons since they are locking. it may just be on/off mute and channel select. If so, it has one heck of a big sub chassis for it!
You could try with the 12 Volts batteries that often are used in remote controls for opening gates. They're very little, but are quite strong and durable.
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  #24  
Old 03-14-2015, 11:20 PM
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Your remote appears to be the same as used on my Grenoble CTC 7. The original battery and plug were intact and it was connected to the 9 volt tap. I swapped connectors for a standard 9 volt battery and it works fine. The only problem I had was two of the 5 K ohm relays on the remote chassis that were open. I was able to find modern relays and after adjusting contact clearance and using lighter springs it works great.
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  #25  
Old 03-17-2015, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by droptop View Post
Your remote appears to be the same as used on my Grenoble CTC 7. The original battery and plug were intact and it was connected to the 9 volt tap. I swapped connectors for a standard 9 volt battery and it works fine. The only problem I had was two of the 5 K ohm relays on the remote chassis that were open. I was able to find modern relays and after adjusting contact clearance and using lighter springs it works great.
Great about the battery huh? What did you do about the physical aspect of the battery? Did you just stuff the housing so the cross supports for the screws sprung against something? I did notice the 9V tap was used and was thankful! Also, since nothing in the field manual even mentions this remote, what functions does it actually do? On/off/mute and channel or more?
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2015, 08:28 PM
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First Run!

Wow! I patiently brought her up on my variac and took my time. This was what I was rewarded with! It has a long way to go but not bad for a first run after who knows how many years. I think there is a lot of good to work from here! I'm super excited. After a while the vertical linearity started shifting, etc.... some cap work to be done but STILL! WoW!
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File Type: jpg 20150319_First Run.jpg (72.2 KB, 105 views)
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  #27  
Old 03-19-2015, 11:04 PM
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Wow is right. When I consider replacing components in a mostly-working original set like that, I keep in mind the old doctor's precept: "Above all, do no harm."

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  #28  
Old 03-20-2015, 09:25 AM
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That is a good picture - especially on original parts ! !

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  #29  
Old 03-20-2015, 10:59 AM
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That is pretty darn good for an unrestored example.
I dig that the remote stores in the front control panel.
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  #30  
Old 03-20-2015, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Nelson View Post
Wow is right. When I consider replacing components in a mostly-working original set like that, I keep in mind the old doctor's precept: "Above all, do no harm."

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
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