#76
|
|||
|
|||
So I might have just hit a "duh" moment here. Reading the barely-legible scanned print at the bottom of the schematic it says "channel selected shown in channel 13 position" and "measurements taken with no signal applied". And well, I had previously been testing voltages with a signal connected. Now, with no signal I get pretty close to all of the voltages on the schematic -- of course with a signal they jump up to those much higher ones.
Based on that, would it be safe to say then that what I'm seeing is in fact the correct, normal working voltages (despite being quite a bit different) when tuned in? FK Last edited by FrankieKat; 09-15-2017 at 12:25 PM. |
#77
|
|||
|
|||
As a rule voltages are +/- 20%. Service data at one time would have that noted in the info bar/box. All the best,Tom.J
|
#78
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thanks! FK Last edited by FrankieKat; 09-15-2017 at 12:47 PM. |
#79
|
||||
|
||||
Generally speaking the only tubes you ought to be concerned with are power rectifier, H/V/Audio outputs and maybe a stray 6CG7/6FQ7 or 12AU7/12AX7....The rest are usually $1.50 bottles that only TV folks want (and unlike audiophiles/radio collectors) we're cheapskates.
I've got ~8 caddies full of mostly TV tubes in my work shop (a good portion used pulls in unknown condition), and I've been known to grab a used one smash it open and dissect it on the spot to explain how a tube works to an interested guest..."Hey Tom, might that have been a good tube worth keeping intact?" ME:"who cares? It's a $1.50 6xx#....The visual aid/savings in explanation time we got out of it is worth it."
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#80
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Otherwise my last issue here is that pesky picture glitching (and this), possible HV arcing noise that was bothering me a while ago went away, and now has come back which seems to happen after the set has warmed up about 5 mins or so. I did have to repair the grid cap wire on the horiz output tube because it had frayed at the point where it exited the cap and eventually broke off. Perhaps my solder job wasn't quite perfect enough. If not, will go back to dag. Will keep pluggin' away. Also... let me just say huge thanks to everyone who helped out on this. I feel like this project a little bit of all kinds of things that could go wrong with an old, unrestored set and there's probably enough useful information in here to help many more restorers in the future. Thanks everyone! FK |
Audiokarma |
#81
|
|||
|
|||
Hey everyone,
Just an update on this. All back together in the cabinet and have figured out that the remaining problems (including picture glitching) are all contact issues in the tuner as was suggested earlier. I cleaned it once, but apparently still needs more work. At some point I'll pull it back out, thoroughly re-clean tuner contacts and attempt an alignment with the VA62, as there is a little bit of smearing and ringing in the picture but still very watchable. Both syncs are rock solid -- controls in the center and has never rolled once, and brightness and contrast are good. See pic. Thanks again for all of your help on this. I learned a lot and this TV is so fun to watch! FK |
#82
|
|||
|
|||
Frankie glad it is working fairly well for you. All the best,Tom.J
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|