Philco round screen - CL

[gary k.]

Hi -
Saw this on Craigslist. Very close to my house but in pretty rough shape.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ele/264758200.html

[matt_s78mn]

Originally Posted by gary k.

Hi -
Saw this on Craigslist. Very close to my house but in pretty rough shape.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ele/264758200.html

Ooh, Mpls isn't that far for me I might give this one a try.

[matt_s78mn]

Ok, I went to pick up the Philco early this morning. The cabinet is in really rough shape, it's going to need to be re-veneered. It has spent the last couple decades in a basement, but has been moved around carelessly a few times.

I followed all the initial start up procedures, and was able to get a picture, It shouldn't be too hard to get it working well again though. The CRT is a 21FJP22 and this will be my first attempt at cataract removal, so i'll probably be asking some questions when I get around to doing that.

I've attached some pics for you all to enjoy

...have a great day everyone!

[jpdylon]

I think that is a CTC-15 clone. The only lytics are in the power supply, and I believe a few in the vertical. The reset Are mylar film, and rarely ever fail.

Looks like the green gun is weak, and you are missing most of your Y (video) signal. If your lucky and the CRT still has good emission, all you may have to do is replace the small amount of lytics, some tubes, perform greyscale and convergence.

After you change out the caps and tubes and get it running well, make sure to check the Ho cathode current. Anything more than 210ma and you run the risk of cooking you flyback.

You may want to consider This if your CRT is weak. just make sure you instruct the seller how to properly pack it.

[matt_s78mn]

Originally Posted by jpdylon

I think that is a CTC-15 clone. The only lytics are in the power supply, and I believe a few in the vertical. The reset Are mylar film, and rarely ever fail.

Looks like the green gun is weak, and you are missing most of your Y (video) signal. If your lucky and the CRT still has good emission, all you may have to do is replace the small amount of lytics, some tubes, perform greyscale and convergence.

After you change out the caps and tubes and get it running well, make sure to check the Ho cathode current. Anything more than 210ma and you run the risk of cooking you flyback.

You may want to consider This if your CRT is weak. just make sure you instruct the seller how to properly pack it.

Thanks for the info Jordan. I did some more tweaking and changed out a couple tubes and was able to improve it quite a bit. The crt has good emission on all 3 so I'll let someone else go after that ebay auction.

Yea you're right, it's a clone. One thing seems odd though, there isn't a single philco tube in the entire chassis. Most of them are magnavox, the rest are rca, ge, and raytheon. I would assume that means this set has pretty high hours.

Are the convergence adjustments going to be a nightmare on this set like they are on my ctc-31?

Here's some more pics of my progress:

[Sandy G]

Pretty good picture so far if you ask me...Yeah, convergence is a tad off, but...

[jpdylon]

did you have the set hooked up to rabbit ears, or cable?

The second pic looks like you have video smear. My CTC-16 has that problem too. Adjust the AGC a bit and maybe it will clear up. Are your tuner and IF tubes all good?

[matt_s78mn]

Originally Posted by jpdylon

did you have the set hooked up to rabbit ears, or cable?

The second pic looks like you have video smear. My CTC-16 has that problem too. Adjust the AGC a bit and maybe it will clear up. Are your tuner and IF tubes all good?

It's hooked up to cable. Yea, the tuner and IF tubes all test good. I suppose it could be smear so I'll have to check the agc control.

...thanks

[oldtvman]

Anytime you have ringing or picture smear, the first thing to do is resolder all the grounds on the IF/color board and also on the tuner coax cables. Make sure all factory shields on pc boards and any tube shields have been replaced. Sometimes just fixing the easy problems will cure syptoms you think are much more severe.

[andy]

---

[old_tv_nut]

Definitely worth trying grounds in the video section - perhaps an open somewhere around the luminance delay line or its load resistor.

[veg-o-matic]

What does that say under Philco on the control panel?

Nice set! I really love that Danish Modern style.

Good luck with the convergence. I hate doing that.

veg

[matt_s78mn]

Originally Posted by andy

I have the same set in a different cabinet and it also has similar video smear. Even after an IF alignment, it's about the same. It might just be the way that set is (maybe due to a Philco design change from the RCA chassis). Let me know if you find a solution.

Can you post a pic of your set?

[matt_s78mn]

Originally Posted by veg-o-matic

What does that say under Philco on the control panel?

Nice set! I really love that Danish Modern style.

Good luck with the convergence. I hate doing that.

veg

On the control panel under "philco" where the uhf tuner would be, it says CUSTOM. One thing that's very cool about this set, is on the flip up access door for the horiz/vert/contrast/tone controls, there strip of hologram (or at least some kind of similar material, if this was too old for that) that changes color when looking at it at different angles. When I get home tonight i'll try to take a pic of that.

[bgadow]

That word "custom" really got overused back then. I'm thinking of cars & trucks, mostly, what with Ford's "custom cab" and Chevrolet's "custom deluxe". Someone used an emblem reading "custom color" on their tv sets. I don't know what is supposed to be so impressive about it, considering that all these examples were cranked out by the hundreds of thousands!

Oh...I think that Philco looks GREAT! A super save.