#16
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Yeah, I thought of that too.. But before I started, there was literally no red and barely any green. Unfortunately I didn't snap a picture before I got to work of this condition. Everything was very "smurf like" faces were literally blue. But, yes I agree, it's hard to remember details with the human mind ranging that far back.. luckfully she told me she plugged it up in the garage to see if it worked to decide whether she would sell it or give it away and that's when se noticed the raster was all blue. Hence the not working sign on it.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 09-05-2019 at 12:02 PM. |
#17
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My recommendation: if you are going to use it daily and want picture fast then the ecconoquick is good, but if you are not using it regularly unplug it or switch off the power strip it is plugged in to to reduce CRT wear. Your chassis derrived rejuvenation is fascinating... I may have to try that on one of my Trinitrons at some point.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#18
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#19
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Absolutely agree. Most of the vintage color sets I've picked up showed weak sleepy emission. the 8v overnight trick brought most back to life into the green.
As to Electronic M, yes I always thought that any heater without cathode use causes oxidation. I just dont understand why Sony would make a big deal of econoquick if the SS circuitry was a 8 to 10 second wait from dead cold anyway. A far leap from a non instant on full vacuum tube tv that took 30 or more seconds to produce picture, in which yes, instant on reduced CRT life and vaccum tube life as well.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#20
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A few notes on all of this.
Econoquick is just a fast warm up CRT. No STBY voltage. Almost all SS sets WITHOUT a power transformer use a flyback (FBT) winding for the CRT filament. Some sets ground on end & others "float" it at apx 130V. This is to keep the F & cathode close DC wise to reduce arking & H-K shorting. Service notes. Always look for cold joints especially if the set has a PCB for the CRT socket. Early RCA in line CRT sets used a spring contact socket. Many had toasting & went intermintant ( RCA, Admiral, Maggy, Sears/Warwick ). The plastic key on the CRT would melt & the contacts burn. Repair was a new socket, remove key, clean & bend F pins out slightly then put the key back on. Sets with H-K short & grounded F. There was a rash of Sanyo built Sears with Sylvania jugs that shorted H-K. This coinsided with mass failures of the Z0064 HV rect, divider that kept us quite busy ! They used a grounded F configuration. Repair was to isolate the F from ground ( cut etch & run a wire). Place a 1.5 meg resistor between the shorting K & f. Also add IIRC a .01 cap from the K to ground. This made the set usable again but you could still see when it shorted in the pix. $50 sure beat a new set for the customer ! Low E. Caution some risk !!! You should use a scope for this ! Measure the P-P filament first. You want to increase the F about 20-25%. Most sets have a low value resistor in series with the F ( apx 2 ohm 1 W ). Jump it out & watch the scope for the change in P-P. Early sets had an "open" FBT with the core for the pulse winding exposed. Try adding a turn to the F winding. Use the scope to watch the P-P. Again not a perfect solution but sure beats a new CRT ! Instant on. One of my biggest beefs. Instant on is a killer especially on all tube TV's from all MFG's. All of us are quick to condemn it. BUT on SS sets its a different story IMHO. Ask anyone here what CRT holds up best from the 70's. 90% will answer Zenith chromacolor jugs. The flat chassis & E line CC2 sets both had instant on............ I am tired, nuf sed fer now 73 Zeno LFOD ! |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Well I found a 220k ohm resistor on the H2. There is an H1 and H2. Obviously I cant read with a DVM. Could you elaborate on this low value resistor jumping?
Essentially increasing heater voltage it sounds. I still have a focus issue on the outside perimeter of the CRT I cannot achieve with dialing focus around. also blue and red smearing from weak R and B emission although it retains good brightness and contrast even with the smearing with my chassis derived rejuvenation. lol I know it's most likely a weak crt, just surprised it can retain a really bright raster with quite a bit of contrast, not like the usual Trinitron weak crt. But it does exhibit the smearing as contrast level goes up. And quite a bit out of focus around the perimeter.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 09-06-2019 at 07:14 PM. |
#22
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Ok. I gave my homebrew crt rejuvenation by cranking up R,B,G drives, screen g2 and sub brightness and sub contrast one more go just for the heck of it to try to bump this sleepy CRT awake since I wasn't happy about the red and green smearing issue I was having since the picture level had to be at a less than adequate level to make the smearing livable. I figured what do I have to lose, after all it was free.
So for 2 hours I let it cook like this in the garage to the intro to Family Guy where I saw it the worst.. After about 20 minutes I saw some red background flickering, then it gow worse. All the sudden the red bloomed in like crazy, then faded back to normal.. The red smear became green. 5 minutes after that, the green did the same thing, then the green smear dissapeared. So I backed everything back down to midrange after letting it cook for another 1.5 hours. What I found is if screen G2 is all the way up, sub brightness all the way down, this eliminates 90 percent of the color smearing. Still convinced its a weak crt. Btw, anode HV is right at 28.9KV. Reference decal says 29KV I also looked over the neckboard for solder cracks.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 09-07-2019 at 10:25 AM. |
#23
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Wrong resistor. It should be just a few ohms. If not on CRT PCB trace the F
wires back to the FBT. It also may not be there at all. Quote:
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#24
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The H1 and H2 wires connect directly to the flyback via pigtail connector.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#25
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Ok. Found out my HV probe is messed up possibly. what I thought was 28.9k is actually reading 15k. It's a bk precision HV-44 probe. The damn needle adjustment was cranked up and didn't realize it. Once I calibrated it back to zero, this is what I'm seeing. Doubt the tripler is actually only putting out 15k when the set requires 29kv. Is there something I'm missing?
Could be my meter. Bout to go check some vintage sets of mine to be sure.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 09-07-2019 at 08:19 PM. |
Audiokarma |
#26
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Huh.. My probe measured a Zenith I have the back off at 24kv. Tvs rated at 25kv. Now I'm wondering what's up. Maybe this is the reason for such poor focus? But still convinced the crt is worn out. 710AB22 is just one of those duds.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 09-08-2019 at 03:19 PM. |
#27
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a coax HV lead. The outer is HV & the inner goes to the H-STAT control. The inner makes contact to a small spring on the CRT. If you dont use the removal tool you can loose or bend the spring. Remove the 2 HV claws first then pull strait off. Dont use the bend & rip off method ! 73 Zeno LFOD ! |
#28
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Think my probe is shot. The needle is sticking. looking for a replacement. What's the best way to adapt my sencore cr161 to read how bad this CRT actually is? Thinking of using some wires and alligator clips. What do you guys think? I know I need heater, ,R,G,B, g2 and g1 and ground right? I'm not aware of the stripe colors on the jig? Do I need to use those or just the common colors?
Its putting out a mediocre picture with sub brightness down, and screen drive turned all the way up surprisingly. just out of focus around the outer areas. Wont come in at all. Center of the raster is clear as a bell and the smearing is gone while over driving the G2.. But I can tell the tube is weak. I know now that the filament voltage is 6.3v ang G1 is 50v. Would use a socket CR-37 but I dont have one.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! Last edited by freakaftr8; 09-10-2019 at 02:13 AM. |
#29
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Ok so heres my setup. I used an old BK 465 to run the juice to the filaments. I unplugged the AC filament feed from the socket on the mainboard, then connected it to the BK via one of the sockets, and monitored by DMM. Honestly there is little difference besides some of the color saturation gets a little better and whites stand out more and gets brighter but nothing huge. Focus still sucks wither it's set at standard 6.3v or up to 8v.
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Honey, turn on the tv.. I'm cold! |
#30
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Audiokarma |
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