#31
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I see they used 6AZ8's in that model. I just looked over the Sams a bit, to see what that set was all about. Does the CRT have a EIA274 on it? Just wondering.
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#32
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No idea, but the base says Sylvania and it's engraved with a serial number. 21AXP22, not 21AXP22A so I know it's original.
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Evolution... |
#33
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I'll bet it has a 312 on it somewhere as does my Philco-branded 21AXP22 from my TV-123. Or, maybe Sylvania didn't bother to EIA code their own CRTs?
Pete |
#34
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Quote:
Last edited by fsjonsey; 04-26-2012 at 12:19 AM. |
#35
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I don't see any EIA code on the CRT, I just checked. Just the engraved Sylvania neck, that's it. There were some stickers on the metal bell, but just the same safety stickers they all have on them. Brand neutral.
EDIT: got the Sams folder in the mail today, thanks WISCOJIM!
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Evolution... |
Audiokarma |
#36
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More recapping tonight, I installed some of the stuff that came in from Mouser. Also had to remove the focus control, it was seized. Took it apart and it's actually in pretty good shape electrically, just the shaft was a little frozen from corrosion. Gonna polish the shaft a little, grease and reinstall it.
Still need the rest of the caps from Allied, mainly the .22uf ones. After those and the new lytics are installed, I think it will be ready for a slow run up on the variac to form the new caps. If things look good from there, I still need to test the Corotron regulator in another set to see if it still works. If not, I'll have to install a 6BK4 regulator mod to control high voltage. Probably won't happen till next weekend though, I have something going on in Wisconsin this weekend.
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Evolution... |
#37
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Very cool. Nice to see this set being brought back to life. Can't wait top see the picture!
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#38
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"Probably won't happen till next weekend though, I have something going on in Wisconsin this weekend."
Hey Nick, I think you have something happening in Hilliard, Ohio next weekend. -Steve D.
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Please visit my CT-100, CTC-5, vintage color tv site: http://www.wtv-zone.com/Stevetek/ |
#39
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Damn, that is this coming weekend! Weekend after next, then!
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Evolution... |
#40
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Great Set.
I used to service Sylvanias in the early 70's. Not many roundies back then but I had a few that were newer than yours. Great snag.
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Audiokarma |
#41
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Recapping continues, I decided to do all the lytics in the power supply.
Here's the old ones, with cardboard removed. One was already replaced, guess which one was overheating? My guess is the one with the tar that dripped all the way down to the bottom. That same one was oozing crud out the bottom as well. For the main quad of filters, I opted to saw them apart and put new Nichicons into the remaining wafers. This method works well when you have cardboard covers to go over the tops like I have here, or when you just plain don't care what the finished product looks like. Pushing the leads through the wafer holds them securely in place, so no glue is needed. With the cardboard back on, no one will ever know by looking at it from the top. The remaining small value caps were soldered in underneath the chassis, since there is ample room on this particular set. It's nice to have some space to work with here, RCA's are typically pretty cramped under the hood. Here's the video processing side of the chassis, with new caps installed. The only ones I have left are the .22uf ones, they should be coming from Allied early this week.
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Evolution... |
#42
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I used the variac to form the new caps today, everything went as expected. Nothing blew up or got hot, and it looks like the power supply is working like it's supposed to. I also have a nice horizontal waveform going to the output tube grid, so next time I power it up I'll likely test HV output and find out if that pesky Corotron tube does it's job. Hope those caps come soon...
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Evolution... |
#43
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Nick, how do you get the cardboard covers off the capacitors intact? I could not figure out how on my RCA 8TS30.
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Chris Quote from another forum: "(Antique TV collecting) always seemed to me to be a fringe hobby that only weirdos did." |
#44
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I have usually been able to pull cardboard covers off after softening the tarry adhesive with a heat gun. Some of that tar is really tenacious, but with patience the heat gun usually works. In a couple of cases I got impatient and slit the cover up one side with a razor to speed the process. After restuffing, I glued the cover back together and put the slit side where it wasn't visible.
Phil Nelson Phil's Old Radios http://antiqueradio.org/index.html |
#45
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What is the type number of the Corotron tube? I've got loads of TV tube pulls.
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Audiokarma |
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