#46
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Neither, I removed it because it was cracked.
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#47
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good news on getting that lens off.
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#48
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The chassis works!
I finished painting the cabinet, I still need to put the doors back on and maybe knock a bit of the gloss off but basically I'm calling the cabinet done.
I installed the tube mounts and stuck in a rejuvenated 21FJ just in case something bad happened. Put the chassis in, filled up the tube sockets with replacements from a CTC11 chassis and fired it up. The tuner is very touchy which made it hard to get an image and I have the yoke on upside down or wired backwards (doh!) but basically everything is working, full raster, good horizontal lock, vertical lock a little touchy, color and tint works, not sure about sound because I didn't install the audio output tube or a speaker but I suspect it will work also. The purity and convergence is horrible of course, I don't even have the purity rings installed at this point but the picture is all there. Once I get everything ready and put back together I'll install the new tube but for now I'll use this tired old junker just in case I knock the neck off or something. |
#49
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looking good.full vertical!cant wait to see screen shots when done.cabinet looks great
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#50
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Got the yoke wired correctly, did a real rough purity and convergence and got this.
The vertical won't sit still, the raster pops on and off and it's still really hard to tune but it looks promising. This is with the weak CRT too. |
Audiokarma |
#51
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I'm slowly getting all the pieces to make this set complete, scored a remote control unit from eBay, it's in great shape and came with the holder that hooks into the back.
As luck would have it, it's a CRK-3F which is the right one for the receiving unit which is a CTP-7B. Any suggestions on where to find a sub for the oddball RCA VS-163 battery used in this? |
#52
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These things have been selling on Ebay for a pretty penny.. Even the remote unit design after this one has been selling for alot.
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#53
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Eric, if the battery you need is 4.2 volts, you might look at the older style camera or flash batteries. I got a 4.5 volt flash battery off the shelf at Walmart years ago to put in a Hoffman transistor radio. It wasn't quite fat enough to stay in place, so I wrapped electric tape around the middle of it so it wouldn't bounce around inside the battery compartment. Worked like a charm.
Don't recall the battery number, and I am on the ship right now, so I cant go digging around to find out what I did. However, here is a photo of what I did... http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...07&postcount=6
__________________
Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#54
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Quote:
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#55
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Eric,
Check out this Radio Shack offering: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3249777 May require some slight mod to the battery compartment. -Steve D.
__________________
Please visit my CT-100, CTC-5, vintage color tv site: http://www.wtv-zone.com/Stevetek/ |
Audiokarma |
#56
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I think I had to do a slight mod in that radio... at the bottom... where I soldered a piece across the existing contact. You can just barely see it in the photo.
__________________
Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#57
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I don't remember the dimensions of the original battery. The battery holder in the inexpensive LED flashlites is 7/8" in diameter by 2&1/4 long. Maybe it will fit. A lot cheaper than the alternatives.
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#58
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I ordered one of those batteries from Amazon, I don't want to go near Radio Shack this weekend, though I don't imagine they are swamped with customers.
Also doubt they would stock it. |
#59
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Amen... seems like they don't carry anything we need anymore. I don't know why they still use the same name.
__________________
Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#60
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I think we are about to see the end of Radio Shack.
__________________
Bruce |
Audiokarma |
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