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  #46  
Old 02-26-2010, 09:37 PM
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The base of the 5z4 tube is the same as all of the other tubes in that set, right? If it is, then you'll need to find what is called an octal socket. Luckily, this has to be the most common socket type out there. There are plenty on ebay right now that could be had for less than a dollar.

You can still do a little more while you wait for your socket in the mail. Disconnect your transformer leads that run to the 5z4 socket. That should stop the arcing. The only thing that should be hooked up now is the filament string. You could try to light up the other tubes with the 5z4 unhooked to see if at least that part of the radio is functional.

As for drying out the chassis, it should probably be fine after sitting around for the couple of days that it would take for the new socket to arrive. Some folks may suggest putting it into an oven to dry it out, but that could cause other issues. Actually, some people claim to wash their radio chassis in the dishwasher! After that bad socket incident, I just go over the chassis with a damp cloth, I never spray the chassis with anything unless it is in really bad shape.
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  #47  
Old 02-26-2010, 09:56 PM
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The only thing it could have been was a left over spot of Naval Jelly. Of course, I did have to wash that off but I tried to be careful.... Oh well. What about denatured alcohol? That would clean and dry things up really fast. It would remove any Naval Jelly, oils, moisture, whatever.

This socket only has 5 holes in it not like the others with 8. I suppose it doesn't matter. I can just make sure I wire the correct ones. I'll check out Ebay or what ever. Thanks for that tip.
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  #48  
Old 02-26-2010, 10:42 PM
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It looks like a phenolic wafer socket. Measure the distance between the holes used to attach it to the chassis and send me your mailing address. I'll look in my box of sockets to see if I have a match and mail it to you tomorrow if I find one.
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  #49  
Old 02-26-2010, 11:43 PM
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Wow... thank you... I'll send you a PM..
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  #50  
Old 02-27-2010, 06:16 PM
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Hey... I was wondering, I've removed the 5z4 socket. If I were to test the filament part of the set as FUNAI suggested, should I put in all the tubes or certain ones or one at a time.. the solid black ones as well as the vacuum ones? (Of course, there would be no 5z4)
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  #51  
Old 02-27-2010, 06:40 PM
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Now that I am looking over tubes, I noticed something. We have been talking about the 5z4 socket. The tube that was in that socket is a 5Y3 GT by Raytheon. It isn't one of the substitutions listed for 5Z4 on the Nostalgia Air website. Is this the correct tube?
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  #52  
Old 02-27-2010, 08:26 PM
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On the matter of testing the filament string, you could just put in one tube at a time, as this set is wired in parallel. Some cheaper sets were wired in series, which meant that just like a cheap set of christmas lights, when one bulb, or in this case, tube, goes, then the whole set would die. But in this set that is not such an issue. Also, I would like to emphasize, if you are going to try this, you must not only pull the rectifier tube, but clip all of the wires coming from the transformer leading to the 5z4 socket. Even if the tube is pulled, the socket will continue to arc, as it is faulty.

Looking at the 5z4 vs. 5y3: They pin out the same, but the 5z4 has a cathode, while the 5y3 does not. I'm not sure if this would cause a problem or not, but if I was in your position I would get a proper 5z4.

Here are the pinouts;
5z4 The cathode is attached to pin 8, along with the filament string:

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/tubes/5z4.htm

5y3 Note that the filaments do the work that the cathode was doing in the 5z4:

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/tubes/5y3.htm
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  #53  
Old 02-27-2010, 09:42 PM
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I have removed the socket all together waiting for a replacement. Question... pin 1 was ground, Pin 2, 3, 4 were transformer only. Pin 8 was the transformer as well but there was a bunch of other stuff connected from there starting with a 40K resistor, then 10uF 500V electo that replaced the large one on top and to a bus of other passives. Since those extras on pin 8 are no longer connected to anything, is there a problem or a reason not to continue this test of the tubes?
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  #54  
Old 02-27-2010, 09:47 PM
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Ok, I just looked at you post a little closer... sorry... since pin 8 is the filament string, I guess there is no reason to test it yet... ?
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  #55  
Old 02-27-2010, 11:09 PM
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the rectifier tube is on a different filament string-a 5 volt string instead of the 6.3v that the rest of the set runs on. So make sure that transformer lead on pin 8 is pulled too.
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  #56  
Old 02-28-2010, 12:14 AM
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Just double checking... Since there is no socket for the power rectifier right now and all the leads that used to be connected to it aren't connected to anything, do you mean to make sure the other components that used to be on pin 8 are separated from the transformer lead? I know I'm being kind of redundant but I could have missed something that I didn't pick up on. Thanks
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  #57  
Old 02-28-2010, 06:59 PM
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Now that was fun! I just powered it up without the 5z4 socket and tried out one tube at a time, then added back each one till all tubes were in. No kaboom, no shorts, no fizzles, no cracks, no fire, arcs or smell. I then, plugged strait into the house current, no bulb tester, and the tubes just warmed up nicely with an intimate glow reminiscent of winter radio listening and a warm fireplace. I let it run for about 5 minutes and then shut it down.

So far, so good. Now if I can just get the guts to do some readings on the circuits.

I am very happy!

Thanks for standing by, guys!
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  #58  
Old 02-28-2010, 09:26 PM
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Now that is great news! Keep us posted on how it goes when you get that new socket in there.
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  #59  
Old 03-01-2010, 07:57 AM
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You shouldn't have any problem using a 5Y3 in place of the 5Z4. The NJ7P database references the characteristics of the 5Y3 for the 5Z4. I was wondering about the rectifier tube in your set. I have never seen a glass 5Z4 but I figured that I had just never come across one before.
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  #60  
Old 03-01-2010, 11:03 PM
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Hey everyone. I would like to thank Sean for the wafer socket. It arrived today and of course I slapped that thing in. On that socket, the 5z4, I have 390V AC from pin 4 the chassis and 390V AC from pin 6 to chassis. I am getting 7.9V AC from 2 to 8 and 7.9V AC from 2 to 7... no tubes, no fizz, no smoke.

How's that sound?

If that's OK, should I just plug it all together with the speaker and see what happens or are there other checks to do?

I'm excited!
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