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  #46  
Old 12-02-2016, 01:03 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Vinegar works well too. You didn't remove the cadmium plating (unless the Brasso polishing did) - you removed the chromate salts they used to passivate the cadmium onto the steel, or cadmium sulfide/sulfate - both are yellowish green. If there was one thing Navy Corrosion Control taught me, it was that Chromate salts are always a yellowish green, and that raw cadmium corrodes to a grey powder.

The yellow-green patina is harmless to electronics undisturbed, but the chromate is toxic, so removing it from something handled so often was wise. We used to spray Humiseal on just-cleaned CADPLAD chassis to keep it from corroding - spray clear krylon (remove tubes and cover sockets!) works well.

Just dispose of your simple green rags in the trash - the concentration doesn't rise to hazmat levels.
Brian,

Thanks for the tip on the vinegar and the correction on the cad stuff. The Brasso treatment was very minimal, just to even out the coloration of the metal. the WD-40 finished it off nicely.
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  #47  
Old 12-02-2016, 01:50 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post

The yellow-green patina is harmless to electronics undisturbed, but the chromate is toxic, so removing it from something handled so often was wise. We used to spray Humiseal on just-cleaned CADPLAD chassis to keep it from corroding - spray clear krylon (remove tubes and cover sockets!) works well.

Just dispose of your simple green rags in the trash - the concentration doesn't rise to hazmat levels.
I wonder just how easily those chromate salts are adsorbed through our skin? I always thought the main concern was not inhaling any in a dust form.
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  #48  
Old 12-02-2016, 04:41 PM
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I wonder just how easily those chromate salts are adsorbed through our skin? I always thought the main concern was not inhaling any in a dust form.
A bit - there is a known dermatological response in most people, and some react with severe allergic reactions to the chromate salts.

"Chromium salts (chromates) are also the cause of allergic reactions in some people. Chromates are often used to manufacture, among other things, leather products, paints, cement, mortar, and anti-corrosives. Contact with products containing chromates can lead to allergic contact dermatitis and irritant dermatitis, resulting in ulceration of the skin, sometimes referred to as "chrome ulcers". This condition is often found in workers that have been exposed to strong chromate solutions in electroplating, tanning and chrome-producing manufacturers."

The worst reaction I've seen is a swollen red forehead on a worker that wiped off his sweat constantly while cleaning - the backstory is long, but he likened the pain to a jellyfish sting. I'm no expert, but have had the training three times - all after an incident elsewhere, the last in 2006. Laboratores, manus vestras perlavate. wash your hands...
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  #49  
Old 12-02-2016, 06:27 PM
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Owie. That point of adsorption never occurred to me.
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  #50  
Old 12-02-2016, 10:46 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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In keeping with fully documenting the kit, here are pictures of the bags of parts and the other parts that make up this kit.











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  #51  
Old 12-02-2016, 11:03 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Here are the contents of each bag. The parts are in order as they are in the parts list which is attached.

Bag #1: They give a interlock power cord, but no receptacle nor does the chassis have a cutout for one.



Bag #2:



Bag #3:



Bag #4:



Bag #4A:





Bag #5:



Bag #6:



Bag #7:



Bag #8:



Bag #9:



Wire Bag:



Newspaper:



Speaker:



Tubes: All Westinghouse.

Attached Files
File Type: pdf Tech-Master 5516 Parts List - small file.pdf (239.7 KB, 3 views)

Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-03-2016 at 12:19 AM.
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  #52  
Old 12-02-2016, 11:39 PM
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Man, you are sitting on a goldmine of NOS wax caps - the guitar guys and some Asian audiophiles eat those up:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ftrt...acitor&_sop=16

actually sold:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ftrt...p2045573.m1684

Swap them out for some yeller ones, and sell the wax ones....
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  #53  
Old 12-02-2016, 11:50 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Man, you are sitting on a goldmine of NOS wax caps - the guitar guys and some Asian audiophiles eat those up:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ftrt...acitor&_sop=16

actually sold:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ftrt...p2045573.m1684

Swap them out for some yeller ones, and sell the wax ones....
Yikes! My kit, replacement parts and CRT just became free! Maybe even the cabinet too.

I have an order to Just Radios ready, just have to hit send.
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  #54  
Old 12-03-2016, 11:02 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by Crist Rigott View Post
Yikes! My kit, replacement parts and CRT just became free! Maybe even the cabinet too.

I have an order to Just Radios ready, just have to hit send.
Many of the components look like surplus parts scrounge. Bag #4 has caps from GE and Delco radio. The Marblelites are from Good-All, commomly used back then.
At least, some of the resistors are Allen Bradley. Some of the others, I wouldn't trust, except for the IRC's.
Fun stuff, for sure!
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  #55  
Old 12-03-2016, 11:08 AM
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Your HV lead has an inline plug on it....That might fit my CTC-4 HV receptacle. If you want to sell your HV lead or it swap for one off a 90's CRT TV just PM me.
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  #56  
Old 12-03-2016, 11:16 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
Many of the components look like surplus parts scrounge. Bag #4 has caps from GE and Delco radio. The Marblelites are from Good-All, commomly used back then.
At least, some of the resistors are Allen Bradley. Some of the others, I wouldn't trust, except for the IRC's.
Fun stuff, for sure!
Yeah, I have to agree. Some of the components look like I bought them today, while others look a bit "suspect".

I did measure a few resistors and they showed at least 10% high. The kit uses 10% and 20% resistors. It really doesn't matter, all the resistors will get replaced with modern 5% ones and they will be 1W and 2W instead of 1/2W and 1W. Mainly because the leads on modern 1/2W resistors are pretty wimpy. The 1W have much better leads. And of course all the paper caps will get replaced. I won't be replacing the 1 mica cap (bag #5) on this set because it looks brand new and is modern type build.
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  #57  
Old 12-03-2016, 11:20 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Your HV lead has an inline plug on it....That might fit my CTC-4 HV receptacle. If you want to sell your HV lead or it swap for one off a 90's CRT TV just PM me.
That just might happen. I'll keep you in mind when the time comes. Thanks for the offer.
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  #58  
Old 12-03-2016, 07:34 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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OK guys, I have a bit of a problem that needs to be worked out. Basically it is the wires that I add to the chassis are called out in the step by step as far as length and to/from. But the step by step never gives the color of the wire to be used.

I have 9 different colors that the kit included. See Wire Bag above. I have the most wire in red and black. The the other colors are about 10 to 20% of what the red and black wires are. I have 1 wire that's about 18 inches long and the color of it is white with an orange stripe.

I created a "wire schedule" in Excel listing all the wires in each of the 6 instruction sheets.

I'm guessing that the color wire to be used depends on either the circuit or function. For example in the Admiral I just finished, orange went to a filter cap and was like B+ IIRC, etc.

Is there a chart that would show what colors should be used depending on the circuit/function? I know that black is usually ground but in this case it could be B- because B- floats off of the chassis. Red could be B+ of 130 volts. I'm including some attachments that might help explain my situation. They are a schematic, a "snapshot" of the step by step instructions from sheet 1, and my wire schedule. I figured that I could sort the wires by circuit/function to help get what I need for colors.
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  #59  
Old 12-04-2016, 02:34 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Radio Daze provides this handy color code chart. Of course this stuff in old text books as well.

http://www.radiodaze.com/vintage-component-color-code/
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  #60  
Old 12-04-2016, 04:11 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
Radio Daze provides this handy color code chart. Of course this stuff in old text books as well.

http://www.radiodaze.com/vintage-component-color-code/
Great! I'll see how that works out.

I did start to trace out the wiring and as far as step 1 goes, it looks like it is wiring B-, B+ etc. So I'm starting to fill in my chart. I'll use that chart as a guide and see how that works out especially with the wire lengths provided.
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