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  #151  
Old 11-29-2002, 09:01 PM
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Steve D. Steve D. is offline
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RCA roots here?

I do agree with Rob. This looks like an advanced development of the old RCA "Trinoscope" from the late forties and early '50s. A discription and picture of the "Trinoscope" color receiver can be found on Ed Reitan's color tv site. under "early developmental color receivers".
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  #152  
Old 12-01-2002, 02:50 AM
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Cory Cory is offline
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Not exactly round...

Hey guys,
Well, it's not exactly a round CRT, but I think this is still a good looking dinosaur. It's a Sylvania hybrid set with solid-state audio and tube video. The extent of my color collection is a CTC31 that I removed the cataracts from and an interesting '60s 19" metal cabinet Zenith with wired remote. The wood sided remote features controls for channel/color level/hue/volume/speaker (it has it's own local speaker). Pressing the appropriate rocker switch causes the respective pot to spin on the set This set or the 8" RCA below gets used nightly. If anyone has any schematics for this Sylvania, let me know, the FM has dropped out leaving no audio for TV either. Gotta love the design though!
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  #153  
Old 12-01-2002, 09:01 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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nice console!

Hi Cory,

A hearty belated 'Welcome' to the Vintage TV forums! You are a brave soul to have tackled that cataract operation. I believe I read about it on your site a while back. Those big consoles are disappearing, most went to landfill years ago. Yours appears to work well.

That gizmo with mucho power tubes in it top left of the photo looks like it would be of interest to the group of tube audio heads here at AK. Why not tell us about it with photos in the tube forum?!

Rob
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  #154  
Old 12-02-2002, 02:16 AM
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kc8adu kc8adu is offline
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i have had success with nichrome wire and a 12v gelcell.
i made a set of handles with cables to go to the battery.
worked nice on a 19eyp22.
just dont breath the fumes.
do it outdoors.
going to do a 25bap22 in a zenith next and a 21fjp22 in a rca.
the stuff in between is pva(polyviynl acetate.
the trick is to get the tube and cover glass clean.
some small rubber blocks around the edge to space the glass and packing tape to contain the new stuff.
poke hole in tape at top and inject new resin.
i will find out the part number of the resin kit and post it here.
i think it is made by corning but not sure.



Quote:
Originally posted by Rob


John,

I'm keeping some details of the procedure and the secret solvent (um...did I say it was a solvent? ) close to my chest for now as I have a commercial interest in the procedure. I was only successful after considerable R&D invested. At some point I will be taking these for rebuild so ...

A NOTE TO COLOR COLLECTORS. Don't throw any 21FJP22's with cataracts away that measure good emission!!!

Rob
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  #155  
Old 12-02-2002, 02:30 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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kc,

You delaminated totally differently than I did. I avoid localized heating which I feared might cause local stress in the glass, a big no-no. I thought of a hot wire and also a rope saw but did not go those routes for the heat buildup concern.

In other electronics work I have used a clear silicone potting compound which pours like thin syrup and is a two part that cures like epoxy, used for potting electronic modules from Dow Corning. Is this the stuff you used?

In my 21FJP22 rebuild I left a ~0.100 inch air gap filled with dry argon and merely sealed the faceplate onto the CRT with a bead of RTV around the periphery to seal it up. Faceplate can be removed fairly easily with a razor knife to save it if desired (groovy large glass dish) when the CRT is finally toast.

Rob

Last edited by Rob; 12-02-2002 at 02:46 AM.
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  #156  
Old 12-02-2002, 08:06 AM
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kc8adu kc8adu is offline
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this stuff is not silicone.
i will get the can later when i go to my shop.
these tubes are a lot tougher than you think.
i have seen ge and channel master rebuilts come in without the cover glass.
no bands around the faceplate either.
the last rebuilts i got from vdc have the proper laminated front.
i set a dead 21fjp22 without a laminated face out back of my shop and tossed rocks at it.
all that did was chip the face.
after i knocked the neck off i put it in the dumpster and it took a very hard hit with a hammer to break the faceplate.this tube had a bad burnin from vertical deflection loss so not worth rebuilding.
btw i have seen 3 types of cateract type failures.
1 is a simple delamination.
2 is mold or fungus growth in the pva.
3 is yellowing or the green halo.(mostly zenith and sylvania)
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  #157  
Old 12-12-2002, 01:47 AM
Harold Deppe Harold Deppe is offline
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21FJP22 disaster

Hi all,

This is my first post to this very interesting site.

I recently started restoration on a CTC-16 with a rebuilt 21FJP22.
The CRT looked very good on the checker and when fired up produced a good picture with excellent gray scale tracking. One night after watching it for about an hour I shut it down and went to bed. Two days later I decided to work on some issues with the convergence board. I was horrified to see the gun assembly hanging limp. During cool down, the contraction of the glass must have caused a weakened neck seal to let go. Up to this point, it was a great tube with only the slightest hint of delamination of the face plate (barely noticeable with high brightness).

Anybody know of a source of 21FJP22's?

Harold
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  #158  
Old 12-12-2002, 08:32 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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Re: 21FJP22 disaster

Quote:
Originally posted by Harold Deppe
Hi all,

This is my first post to this very interesting site......
Anybody know of a source of 21FJP22's?

Harold
Harold,

Welcome to AK's Vintage TV Forums. Glad to have another collector/restorer on board. That is really unfortunate about your 21FJP22 mishap. That certainly doesn't occur often. These tubes took up so much space on dealers shelves that it became too expensive to keep them when they became dead stock so tragically most NOS tubes are now in landfill. I have never run across a NIB 21" color tube and rely on finding old sets with good CRT's as the only source I know. Even that is not an easy way to find these as most of these sets are now in landfills too. The CTC-16 was RCA's first really reliable color set, so once you get it going it should provide years of enjoyment.

Perhaps someone reading this could help Harold out?

Rob
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  #159  
Old 12-12-2002, 12:49 PM
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rcaman rcaman is offline
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the first crt rebuild for my ctc10 worked great for about an hour.
then the neck cracked. they had no 21" tubes to replace that one with so i sent them one of my duds. it works great. it seems yours was like mine had a weat spot where the glass was joined at the time of rebuild. i have a new in box 21fjp22 and a 21cyp22
and an extra 21fjp22. no they are not for sale at this time. i see them going up in value everyday if you can find one grab it.
steve
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  #160  
Old 12-12-2002, 01:42 PM
Harold Deppe Harold Deppe is offline
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21FJP22

Steve,

Thanks for the reply. I'm sorry to hear I'm not the only one who has experienced this failure. I spoke with Hawkeye today, and was told this can happen when the heat used to weld the new gun structure is not evenly distributed. It apparently creates a weak area displaced from the weld.

If anyone has a tube available, please let me know. My email is:

trandoc@aol.com

Harold
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  #161  
Old 12-13-2002, 06:53 PM
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kc8adu kc8adu is offline
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beware that some brass looking trim is just polished steel with amber laquer.
plain old paint stripper will take it off.
in the case of amber/yellow clear finish i have used a stained glass product called great glass?
ace hardware has it.
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  #162  
Old 12-13-2002, 08:51 PM
Rob Rob is offline
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Re: CTC-7 now in color!!

Quote:
Originally posted by wiseguy
another fresh pic,can anyone tell me what they use to remove the clearcoat on the brass trim parts?terry
Terry,

That picture looks great! I was going to ask YOU what YOU used to remove the clearcoat from the RCA brass trim. On my CTC-4 I'm using paint stripper, but it takes forever, and multiple applications to cut the coating off. I was hoping to find something more aggressive. I was going to then polish it with #0000 steel wool and clear coat it with spray lacquer.

kc,

Thanx for the tip. On these early RCA color sets the trim is real brass. I always use a magnet to test before applying paint remover.

Rob
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  #163  
Old 12-14-2002, 07:56 AM
wiseguy wiseguy is offline
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brass cleaning

rob... i tried an automotive clearcoat remover,it worked the first time,and didnt damage the brass strip i tried it on,.. now after i polish all those brass trim parts..(solid brass),i wonder how i can re-clear coat them so it looks decent,..i dont have a paint air gun.and i am horrible at painting.. so i bet the clear coat would run..
terry
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  #164  
Old 12-14-2002, 11:37 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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brass clear-coating

Terry,

The aerosol cans of clear lacquer are easy to handle and convenient for such a job. Make sure the brass is oil and wax free. If you have used a polish like Brasso which I suspect leaves a waxy residue, clean it off with lacquer thinner and paper towel first. Lay the strips out on newspaper and shoot lightly from about 10-12"" away moving the spray longitudinally along the piece in an even and fairly rapid pace stroke (about 1 foot per second). Try on a test piece first, like the newspaper to get the technique. Do not put too much on, as you say it will run. If it runs it is easily cleaned off with lacquer thinner while still wet, and then just try again.

Rob
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  #165  
Old 12-22-2002, 05:28 PM
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fredh fredh is offline
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Admiral Color TV

Another early color set has come back to life. While this set is certainly not rare it is in excellent condition and looks like it's going to work great. Anyway it was cheap. Here's the url to my site for some pictures if any one is interested.
http://www.pakratz.com/AdmiralD11.html

Last edited by fredh; 12-22-2002 at 05:31 PM.
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