1950s or '60s vintage Zenith TVs, Need some info

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

OK, so I know that in the early days of FM Stereo Multiplex that often times manufacturers, like Zenith, Magnavox, Motorola etc. would design a radio that was "FM Stereo Compatible" meaning that it had a provision on the radio for an FM Stereo Multiplex Adaptor to be installed by a factory trained serviceman if one so choose to do so later on (specifically the old console stereos from the late 1950s and early 1960s).

I was wondering if that was also the case with the remote controlled TVs from that time period, that they made the TVs with a remote control sub-chassis installed from the factory if one chose to do so (the same was done with FM Stereo Multiplex early on) but then one could also get a TV that was "remote control capable" where the TV was provisioned from the factory so that a remote control sub-chassis could be installed later on by a factory trained serviceman?

If so I wonder if that was the case with my TV?

I haven't heard of aftermarket remote on Zenith sets (it certainly was possible on some models).
Packard Bell on the other hand did not build a single set with factory remote (despite most of their TVs being remote ready) instead the remote was a dealer installed option...I believe they kept the interface standard for several years so you could ask for remote from new or save up for it after you've enjoyed your TV for some time.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I haven't heard of aftermarket remote on Zenith sets (it certainly was possible on some models).
Packard Bell on the other hand did not build a single set with factory remote (despite most of their TVs being remote ready) instead the remote was a dealer installed option...I believe they kept the interface standard for several years so you could ask for remote from new or save up for it after you've enjoyed your TV for some time.

OK, I was just wondering.

The good news is that the Zenith Bugeye TV should be a pretty simple resurrection/restoration, because its mostly ceramic disc caps I only counted 13 paper caps in the whole set, and the good news is that it seems like the main filter cap is still good yet (possibly a later replacement) but the rest of the electrolytic cans are either shorted or open according to my ESR meter, (one's a 3 section and one is a 4 section) which means that the hum I was hearing through the speaker may have been from one of the other electrolytic cans that had failed, in fact I might possibly be able to get the set to "work" ("resurrected" to borrow Shango's terms) by just replacing the failed electrolytic cans with new individual electrolytics.

[Notimetolooz]

I wouldn't put much stock in what Shango says.
He is an outlier as far as I'm concerned.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

No, there doesn't seem to be HV which is kind of confusing because the HV rectifier is in really good shape and the Flyback is in really shape (no melted wax etc.)

The picture tube is glowing in the back and the Picture tube looks to be low hours as the cathode material inside is a shiny silvery color yet and not a dark gray color like a high hours tube would be.

I could pull the chassis and check some of the components underneath but in all honesty except for a bunch of dirt inside the chassis (its literally dirt, not dust, like it may of been in a garage or barn for many years) the set seems to be a low hour set.

from what I could see of the underside of the chassis from the topside I did see one Bumblebee cap (no idea of the value on it though as I couldn't make out the color code on it.)

As for the Bugeye TV I replaced all of the Deflection tubes on the TV and tried to temporarily hook up an 8 ohm bookshelf speaker to the output transformer, and turned on the TV and all I got out of the TV was a loud hum from the speaker which at first I thought maybe it was related to bad filter caps but then when I turned down the volume the hum went away.

Is it possible for an impedance mismatch in a tube audio circuit to cause a hum that can be adjusted by the volume control?

EDIT: Definitely failed filter caps, and I checked the date code on the picture tube on this TV and it does seem to be the original picture tube (or else a NOS tube because the picture tube is a GE branded Picture tube with a Date Code of 58-17 or 17th Week of 1958 which is right around the time period this TV was made, also I think the Selenium Rectifiers are going bad because when I powered on the TV I smelled a burning surfury smell coming from the TV that seemed to be coming from the Selenium Rectifiers.

So how do you remove the chassis out of the Zenith Bugeye TV? I'm asking because I don't see any obvious ways to get the Chassis out (marked screws or anything), also when I was trying to take the socket off the back of the CRT on the Zenith Bugeye TV I accidentally pulled the picture tube's base off (the plastic part with the pins on it that the socket plugs into) thankfully the wires are still intact but trying to feed the wires back into the pins in the base for resoldering is going to be tricky, also trying to figure out how to reglue the base back onto the CRT so it doesn't break off again.

Did you figure out how to work on the bugeye? The cabinet slides off the chassis by removing the top knobs and the two screws on the top and bottom rear edge of the cabinet wraparound. Probably, easier to lay set on it's face and it slides off.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Did you figure out how to work on the bugeye? The cabinet slides off the chassis by removing the top knobs and the two screws on the top and bottom rear edge of the cabinet wraparound. Probably, easier to lay set on it's face and it slides off.

Yes I did, I finally got it apart, and it looks pretty straight forward and simple to recap and also it has a very small amount of paper caps to replace as the majority of the caps in the unit are ceramic disc and mylar type.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

OK, I was just wondering.

The good news is that the Zenith Bugeye TV should be a pretty simple resurrection/restoration, because its mostly ceramic disc caps I only counted 13 paper caps in the whole set, and the good news is that it seems like the main filter cap is still good yet (possibly a later replacement) but the rest of the electrolytic cans are either shorted or open according to my ESR meter, (one's a 3 section and one is a 4 section) which means that the hum I was hearing through the speaker may have been from one of the other electrolytic cans that had failed, in fact I might possibly be able to get the set to "work" ("resurrected" to borrow Shango's terms) by just replacing the failed electrolytic cans with new individual electrolytics.

I hope you are counting Bumble Bee caps and those tubular white ceramic bodied Elmenco caps as paper caps because they are paper dielectric and despite looks are just as prone to failure.

Also Shango himself on many of his 'resurection' videos comments to the effect of "this is just to see it run. If you plan to use it you want to change all these caps."

When you loose a power transformer, flyback, etc doing a quick resurrection you'll learn that's not the way to go.
I'll do a resurrection when I want to confirm key unobtainium works, but as soon as I know it works I progress into a full recap... Atleast if I plan to use something or sell it as working.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I hope you are counting Bumble Bee caps and those tubular white ceramic bodied Elmenco caps as paper caps because they are paper dielectric and despite looks are just as prone to failure.

Also Shango himself on many of his 'resurection' videos comments to the effect of "this is just to see it run. If you plan to use it you want to change all these caps."

When you loose a power transformer, flyback, etc doing a quick resurrection you'll learn that's not the way to go.
I'll do a resurrection when I want to confirm key unobtainium works, but as soon as I know it works I progress into a full recap... Atleast if I plan to use something or sell it as working.

Yes, I counted bumblebee and the ceramic tubular caps, as for the "Shango resurrection" comment I made I was meaning the same thing he meant as far as just to see how well it's working in its current condition without a full recap and then proceed with a recap from there, and that's because there were several service dates penciled in on the back cover of this TV which leads me to think that this TV lead a hard life and might be a high hours set, so I want to see how much work has been done to it and if (like you said) parts like the yoke, vertical, or horizontal output transformers or flyback are still functional. That's because as you saw in my initial post the picture of the Zenith Bugeye TV powered on it showed little to no Vertical and Horizontal Deflection on the screen (a horizontal line going across the screen with a small square underneath it) which I want to make sure that its not a yoke issue (as was suggested was a possible issue) or a failed H or V output transformer issue.

Also As far as the big Zenith goes what type of bulbs were used in the tuner for the backlights? I was thinking possibly a type 44 or type 47 (a 6.3V bulb) but I'm not sure and the only number stamped on the base of the bulbs that came out of the TV was the leter "W" (which I could only guess stands for Westinghouse) and the number "240" underneath.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Yes, I counted bumblebee and the ceramic tubular caps, as for the "Shango resurrection" comment I made I was meaning the same thing he meant as far as just to see how well it's working in its current condition without a full recap and then proceed with a recap from there, and that's because there were several service dates penciled in on the back cover of this TV which leads me to think that this TV lead a hard life and might be a high hours set, so I want to see how much work has been done to it and if (like you said) parts like the yoke, vertical, or horizontal output transformers or flyback are still functional. That's because as you saw in my initial post the picture of the Zenith Bugeye TV powered on it showed little to no Vertical and Horizontal Deflection on the screen (a horizontal line going across the screen with a small square underneath it) which I want to make sure that its not a yoke issue (as was suggested was a possible issue) or a failed H or V output transformer issue.

Also As far as the big Zenith goes what type of bulbs were used in the tuner for the backlights? I was thinking possibly a type 44 or type 47 (a 6.3V bulb) but I'm not sure and the only number stamped on the base of the bulbs that came out of the TV was the leter "W" (which I could only guess stands for Westinghouse) and the number "240" underneath.

That lamp is a #240!
I don't remember what the difference is between the 240 and the #47. I always used the proper lamp. Possibly, the #240 doesn't get as hot. A lamp that runs too hot can ruin to plastic parts.

[damen]

Use either a number 239, or 240. Other number lamps may not focus.

[vortalexfan]

OK So here's a picture of the base of the picture tube showing the wires that went into the pins of the base weren't broken off. Also there wasn't much glue on the base to hold it into place to begin with, which makes me wonder if someone replaced this base before, and didn't use enough glue when they installed the base which is why it came off so easily (and yes I was grasping onto the base with one hand while pulling on the socket with the other hand and the base still came off, as the socket was on there really tight.)

Unfortunately I can't get the wires to line up with their respective pins on the base so I can repair it, and I tried soldering some "extensions" onto the existing wire leads and I couldn't get the solder to stick.

[Electronic M]

Try holding the end of a lead between a couple pieces of 600 grit sand paper and rubbing then try soldering.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

OK So here's a picture of the base of the picture tube showing the wires that went into the pins of the base weren't broken off. Also there wasn't much glue on the base to hold it into place to begin with, which makes me wonder if someone replaced this base before, and didn't use enough glue when they installed the base which is why it came off so easily (and yes I was grasping onto the base with one hand while pulling on the socket with the other hand and the base still came off, as the socket was on there really tight.)

Unfortunately I can't get the wires to line up with their respective pins on the base so I can repair it, and I tried soldering some "extensions" onto the existing wire leads and I couldn't get the solder to stick.

You might have to break away part of the base to locate the leads. If the piece you break away is in one piece, you can glue it back in.
I hated that when it happened. I generally wrapped the base with black plastic tape. It was a hack job, but the sets were for resale anyway.

[Notimetolooz]

I've also cleaned wires by gently scraping them with a knife (X-acto).
Use extra flux also.

[vortalexfan]

Would the stuff pictured below work to reglue the picture tube base back onto my Zenith "Bugeye" TV's Picture Tube?

[dtvmcdonald]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Would the stuff pictured below work to reglue the picture tube base back onto my Zenith "Bugeye" TV's Picture Tube?

NO NO NO!!!!!!!!

It does not have the words "sensor safe" ... this means that it contains acetic
which exudes out on curing and will corrode the wires. If it smells like vinegar or
other acid, don't use it!