Motorola 23CL336BW scored

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Tom9589

When bonded screen CRTs are rebuilt, is the safety glass removed for the rebuilding and re-attached after the rebuild is complete or is the safety glass left on for the entire rebuilding process?

The bonded glass must be removed as the bonding material cannot withstand the high oven temperatures.

[Tom9589]

That's what I had figured. I wonder if they had an easy way to remove the bonded glass? I can't imagine the rebuilders sitting a bunch of tubes in garbage cans outside in the sun to soften the adhesive.

[old_tv_nut]

Originally Posted by Tom9589

That's what I had figured. I wonder if they had an easy way to remove the bonded glass? I can't imagine the rebuilders sitting a bunch of tubes in garbage cans outside in the sun to soften the adhesive.

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

As I understand, the hot wire method. Nichrome wire heated with a low voltage, high current transformer.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Looks like the green Zenith style cataracts forming. Those are pretty easy to fix, but it looks like it is early enough into its degradation to ignore.

When you have the chassis out you can adjust CRT mounting.

Installing a CRT in those sets was kind of a nasty job because the tube went in from the front. The last CRT I installed in one of those sets, I converted it from a 23EG to a 23V something using a mounting kit from the Motorola distributor.
The Motorola product line was well represented in the Milwaukee area. Dykro distributors was owned by relatives of the owners of The Milwaukee Journal newspaper.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by DavGoodlin

That CRT looks pretty good and if it were mine, I would not risk any removal.

My Admiral (3G13) combo has a '75 Channel Master rebuilt 23EGP22 with a significant cataract just like an RCA would.

As a Motorola nut who has a soft spot for these despite the comparisons, that is a fantastic set Bob!

That cabinet was a classic attractive cabinet style!
My first color set was a Motorola ETS908, 28 tube chassis.
In late 1965, I went to the distributor to buy a set but they wouldn't sell it to me, as I was just a part-time servicer. You'll have to buy it from a dealer.
I originally wanted the lower priced metal table model, but it was unavailable for quite a while. I ended up buying the better model for $100 more, a lot of money at the time. We only ran the set for 10 years.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Installing a CRT in those sets was kind of a nasty job because the tube went in from the front. The last CRT I installed in one of those sets, I converted it from a 23EG to a 23V something using a mounting kit from the Motorola distributor.
The Motorola product line was well represented in the Milwaukee area. Dykro distributors was owned by relatives of the owners of The Milwaukee Journal newspaper.

My metal table set has the front CRT mounting. Part of me hoped that dopey scheme was a table set only design for compactness... It's too bad the consoles have it too.
Moto did partially make up for it by placing the convergence panel on the front behind the speaker....any set with front convergence adjustment is was atleast partially designed with the tech in mind in my book.

[bandersen]

The convergence panel in this set detaches and has a long cable so you can adjust from the front

[bandersen]

Replacing the bad tubes got the color back.
Some vertical lines at top and it doesn't fill the screen screen. Horizontal sync is a bit off as well.

[bandersen]

Definitely some vertical linearity issues and the tuner is flaky.

[kvflyer]

Originally Posted by bandersen

Definitely some vertical linearity issues and the tuner is flaky.

Bob, nothing wrong with the Vertical Linearity. You are watching an episode of "The Cone Heads".

[Yamamaya42]

They mean no harm, they only wish to build a Protoid Re-fueling Station in your backyard

[ohohyodafarted]

Originally Posted by old_tv_nut

Interesting question. I wonder what Scotty at Hawkeye did.

Scotty placed the tube in the oven at about 300F and the bonding material softens up and the safety glass comes right off.

[Yamamaya42]

Originally Posted by ohohyodafarted

Scotty placed the tube in the oven at about 300F and the bonding material softens up and the safety glass comes right off.

most of us don't have an oven that can fit a 21fjp22a! :p

[DavGoodlin]

Originally Posted by Yamamaya42

most of us don't have an oven that can fit a 21fjp22a! :p

As an appliance fan, I picture a Westinghouse or Philco large 70s wall oven on its back facing up, on a stand with an insulated extension out the back to accommodate the neck. This would allow the tube to face up, its safety glass accessible just under the door. Maintaining evenness of heat and baking a CRT to 300 then cooling again is a scary thought.

I was looking at two of my rectangular Zenith's with 2" of yellow fringing, wondering if its worth the trouble. If you want a uniformly good picture free of external tint, its your call.