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  #91  
Old 05-13-2015, 07:50 AM
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dtvmcdonald dtvmcdonald is offline
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As to the color in the convergence pattern with color turned on: that's normal.
Its caused by beating between the color subcarrier and the sharp lines that
occur at random phase with respect to it.

There was a "prefilter" thread here recently that puts a bandpas filter
on luma in an s-video signal before mixing luma and chroma.
That would eliminate it.
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  #92  
Old 05-23-2015, 07:05 PM
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Dreamsbeard Dreamsbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald View Post
As to the color in the convergence pattern with color turned on: that's normal.
Its caused by beating between the color subcarrier and the sharp lines that
occur at random phase with respect to it.

There was a "prefilter" thread here recently that puts a bandpas filter
on luma in an s-video signal before mixing luma and chroma.
That would eliminate it.
Are you reffering to the "blooming" color lines in the convergence pathern? If so that prefilter should probably give me a sharper , more defined picture right? Also, as we are speaking filter, I wanted to ask about barberpoling effect and comb filter ; is there a way to minimise this effect on older television as if they would have a built in comb filter? I may be talking non sense here, but it seems that all my 1983 and plus televisions seems to cope way better with barberpolling than , lets say my 71 zenith and my 76 Quasar.

BTW the IF board on the Zenith is a 150-170, if anyone has one lying around and is willing to sell please feel free to PM me.

There is also one speaker I would need, its the one in front of the convergence board : 49D1194. Mine is completely destroyed (got to wonder how that happened :/ )

Thanks!

Last edited by Dreamsbeard; 05-24-2015 at 07:17 AM.
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  #93  
Old 05-23-2015, 07:16 PM
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Dreamsbeard Dreamsbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
There are screws and plug-in wires on the bottom of the chassis that have to be removed. PTS, Zenith and others rebuilt the IF modules for the duramodule sets. Finding them should be fairly easy - they were often replaced, although not bad, when any video gripe came about. Yes, 90% of the time, the IF module was good, and the B+ cap, a connection, or an IF injection lead from the tuner was at fault.

150- prefix for the IF module, IIRC. I don't have my CRSP handy to tell you the replacement matrix - i.e. which 150- ### IF module replaces what....

Cheers,
Oh I see, would you recommand that I check some simple connections or components before going full replacement of the IF module?
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  #94  
Old 01-04-2017, 02:45 PM
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Dreamsbeard Dreamsbeard is offline
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Has some of you may know, I am in the process of getting some parts to get the set going. (thread here for the ones interested : http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=268243)

But since I want to get most informations kept into one thread , i'd rather ask technicals questions here , so here goes :

Could anyone tell me if a 2 watt speaker would be a suitable replacement for the one that is busted? I know 8 ohms will do , but I have no clue as what is the minimum W the speaker needs.

thanks!
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  #95  
Old 01-04-2017, 03:03 PM
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Jon A. Jon A. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamsbeard View Post
Could anyone tell me if a 2 watt speaker would be a suitable replacement for the one that is busted? I know 8 ohms will do , but I have no clue as what is the minimum W the speaker needs.

thanks!
Should be. I have three old TV speakers sitting here and the really teeny one says 1 watt, a slightly bigger one from a scrap 19" Korean set says 1.5w max. 3W, and the biggest one, pulled from a Sony, says 2W.
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  #96  
Old 01-04-2017, 03:18 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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Most sets with smaller speakers (cones under 7") only run into the 1-5W range.

Odds are that unless you like your tv LOUD, you'll probably be running that speaker well within it's ratings. It'll distort bad to warn you that your pushing it at high volume anyways...

I've got a couple of 7W (really closer to 12W but heath rated them rather conservatively) Heathkit A-7E mono blocks that can shake the room/be heard through out the house when run at full tilt (feeding speakers rated to more than handle the amp's power)....Odds are 2W will be above sufficient.
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  #97  
Old 01-04-2017, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon A. View Post
Should be. I have three old TV speakers sitting here and the really teeny one says 1 watt, a slightly bigger one from a scrap 19" Korean set says 1.5w max. 3W, and the biggest one, pulled from a Sony, says 2W.
Yeah, most are 1, 2 or 3 watts, but I just don,t know if it makes that much of a difference. I suppose I could get around that by not putting the sound at maximum on my set... I just wanted to be sure.
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  #98  
Old 01-04-2017, 03:23 PM
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Dreamsbeard Dreamsbeard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Most sets with smaller speakers (cones under 7") only run into the 1-5W range.

Odds are that unless you like your tv LOUD, you'll probably be running that speaker well within it's ratings. It'll distort bad to warn you that your pushing it at high volume anyways...

I've got a couple of 7W (really closer to 12W but heath rated them rather conservatively) Heathkit A-7E mono blocks that can shake the room/be heard through out the house when run at full tilt (feeding speakers rated to more than handle the amp's power)....Odds are 2W will be above sufficient.
Ahh thats what I wanted to hear. Thanks Electronic M!
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