#16
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Are you sure the two batteries should be connected in parallel? Because I'm only getting 1.5 volts connecting them that way...
I've also tried connecting 2 sets of D batteries in parallel and I'm only getting 1.4 volts, so not even close to the correct amount of volts needed to power the radio's filiments... |
#17
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Well I was able to rig up a temporary battery rig for my radio and it works...Sort of.
I hooked up my signal generator up to the radio and it picks up the 456 kHz IF Signal fine (all though it picks it up all across the whole dial and not just around the 550 area of the dial), and I tweaked the IF cans and surprisingly enough they are peaked where they are supposed to be, I tried adjusting the Oscillator and Antenna adjustments on the tuning capacitor and they didn't seem to make any difference and the 600 kHz oscillator adjustment is under the chassis so I couldn't adjust that. But I can't get it to pick up any radio stations I can't even get it to pick anything up from my signal generator tuned to various stations on the AM Band, hooked through the antenna, and the antenna coil tested fine when I tested it. Any ideas as to what may be going on? |
#18
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The trouble with using standard alkaline D cells to supply the 2.2V filaments is that new alkaline cells are 1.5V so parallel will not give you enough voltage and series will give you too much (unless you use used batteries that are down to ~1V ). The only advantage of parallel connection is that the batteries will last longer. One thing you could do for the filaments is connect the batteries in series and build a LM317 circuit to regulate 3V down to 2V...A filament rheostat is another solution. Got an oscilloscope to check if the converter or oscillator tube is oscillating? And do you have a decent length of antenna wire 15-40' hooked up? If you have an antenna and the IF works then either the local osc is dead or the RF path between the antenna and the Mixer/Converter is bad....If you passed IF down the antenna and it didn't seem attenuated in comparison to injecting it at the 1st IF then that favors the Osc being dead.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#19
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Anyways Rechargeable NiMH batteries are 1.2 Volts which if I connected 2 of those together I would get 2.4V which would be the correct voltage I need for the tube filaments, and they make NiMH Rechargeable D cells that are as high as 12,000 mAh, which would be more than enough juice to power the filaments. I'm guessing the oscillator isn't running because the tubes aren't getting enough filament juice. |
#20
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The 1C6 can be replaced with a 1A6. I checked over my 2 volt battery set. At the time, I built the power supply using a transformer from a scrap VTVM. I didn't have a regulator chip at the time, so I just used discrete components. |
Audiokarma |
#21
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Battery radios are the most underated old radios around. When I first started collecting I too didn't give them a second look with all those ragged wires and clips hanging out of the back. The truth is they're unique looking sets and perform very well once restored. You also don't get AC line interference, so the audio is clean. The only drawback with the wooden models is that there's usually no dial lamp, or, at best, a dim one.
Unfortunately, very often, either a surge or an attempt at hooking an AC line to them was not uncommon. Usually what happens is an instant blow-out of all the tubes. In my experience of dealing with portable battery radios, it's a 50/50 chance that the tubes are good. I've replaced the tubes on these many times. |
#22
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And I think once I recap this set, and get some proper Rechargeable D cells and a good battery clip for this set I think I should be able to get this thing going. |
#23
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Or would it not matter in this case? Thanks for your help. |
#24
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Last edited by Kevin Kuehn; 11-29-2020 at 12:29 PM. |
#25
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Would I tie the diode across the negative or positive lead of the battery clip? |
Audiokarma |
#26
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Ive done a few of these 90V but the filament was 1.5v. Anyway I use 60 AA batteries for 90V power. I have soldered in connections for 45V too for other radios. I doubt the AA's cost much more than the 9V ones but you have to solder holders together and yes more time involved. About every 3 years +/- 1 they need replacing if they are a good brand.
I like the sound of the battery radios. They dont have much static type sounds as they arent hooked to your homes power supply. If your fortunate enough to have a long wire antenna that will increase the sound too. My outdoor antenna is about 90 feet long. |
#27
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That side was usually sealed in tar and lasted quite a while. |
#28
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American ingenuity!
I did forget to add that the smaller voltage battery will often just last hours as they have draw. The 90 volt pack will last for the life of the batteries. I did buy a cheap brand of AA's and I got what I paid for, they lasted about a year. |
#29
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I'm referring to the time when most homes had electricity. Portable, battery only radios were made until about 1956. Three way portables were only about $5 to $8 dollars more and you can use them all year. |
#30
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jr |
Audiokarma |
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