Newbie from Albuquerque, NM ***( P I C S)***

[madlabs]

Nice looking sets! You came to the right place for help on them, these folks even managed to help ME get a set running. Good luck and have fun with them.

[quarkdude]

Originally Posted by madlabs

Nice looking sets! You came to the right place for help on them, these folks even managed to help ME get a set running. Good luck and have fun with them.

Hello madlabs,
Thanks for the complement on the sets. It's funny, when I was like 6 years old those TV's were right there were they are today. I'm 47 now - never thought I would be working on those TV's - haha. I'm sure they were sitting there before I was even born. Since I had talked to my grandfather about those very tv's before he passed, my uncle said I could have them but I "Had" to take them all. Hey, no problem, Ill take all 3 I will definitely be asking for help as I progress into troubleshooting. Heck, some of them might even work I never asked it they worked, but my guess is probably that they don't work - YET
-quarkdude

[Electronic M]

If you want to test them before resto work. I recommend using a variac (variable voltage auto transformer), turn the set on with the variac feeding the set to output 10-25V Increase voltage to the set in 5V increments every 5-20min until you hit 120V or the lytics get warm/hot, or smoke or arcing noises occur...Warm lytics, or things like smoke and tubes red-plating are bad signs, and you should stop supplying power to the set if those occur.

Some tube heaters should start to glow around 40-60V, if a set is going to produce a raster (lit screen) it should do so by 85-100V...Sound will likely occur somewhere over 65V.
Rocking the tuner between channels and or playing with the volume knob should produce crackle in the speaker.
Loud hum is a sign of the lytics going open and or shorted.

In my experience ~85% sets from before the ~1958-62 transition from paper caps to film dielectric caps tend to be incapable of producing a raster/nearly dead as found, and about 75% after the transition are still working as found.

Odds of those sets working as is are low. Sets usually don't sit in a store room like that unless they broke and were taken out of service. So in addition to replacing the parts that die with time (capacitors), you will probably also have the problems that took those sets out ~50 years ago to deal with...Unless they originally died of cap problems.