CTC-5 Wingate Resto Thread

[miniman82]

Hey Mark, you should stop by and help me out with this thing sometime, a helping hand from a fellow Wingate owner is always appreciated!

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by Sandy G

There's just SOMETHIN' about a restored & properly set up Color Roundie....You guys know what I mean-And like Ernie said Over Yonder-"For those who Understand, no words are necessary..For those who DON'T, no words will suffice..."

Couldn't agree more.....By the end of the week (final exam week for me) I'll FINALLY be working on my CTC-4 again (it is damn hard to pause work on such a rare set when you are as close as I was to having it working 100%).

[miniman82]

You pretty close to having a decent color picture on it, Tom? Were you able to use that purity ring I gave you, or am I thinking of someone else? The CTC-4 edge purity magnets won't work on a glass tube, they just aren't strong enough. You need the hairpins on the plastic ring that goes around the CRT bell, that's the correct one to use. I think they were used on CTC-7/9, possibly others.

[zenithfan1]

Originally Posted by miniman82

Hey Mark, you should stop by and help me out with this thing sometime, a helping hand from a fellow Wingate owner is always appreciated!

Sounds good, how about this Friday after I get off work?

[miniman82]

Sure, give me a call or something! I work during the daytime now, so whenever you get off I should already be here. Hopefully the 'lytics from AES show up before then, I found 35+ volts of AC ripple in the power supply. That can't be good, hope the new caps calm it down.

[Electronic M]

Originally Posted by miniman82

You pretty close to having a decent color picture on it, Tom? Were you able to use that purity ring I gave you, or am I thinking of someone else? The CTC-4 edge purity magnets won't work on a glass tube, they just aren't strong enough. You need the hairpins on the plastic ring that goes around the CRT bell, that's the correct one to use. I think they were used on CTC-7/9, possibly others.

That ring was a bit warped, and when I tried to mount the yoke over it the poor thing cracked. It did not seem practical to mount it over the yoke so I'm just going to squirrel it away until I (or someone else) have need for it.

I had good monochrome, and some BADLY miss-adjusted color, was preparing to work on the color and the intermitant RF/IF/AGC issues had the courtesy to become full time bugs. I got the horizontal adjustments decent (I stole a replacement for the lin. slug from my 9-t-246), but never got time to post about it before I lost signal, and another daily driver set to add injury to insult.

[fsjonsey]

Sorry to revisit the derail, but this is my garage.



Two 1962 Corvair Monza sedans.

[kvflyer]

Originally Posted by fsjonsey

Sorry to revisit the derail, but this is my garage.

...
Two 1962 Corvair Monza sedans.

I like the Nixon/Agnew bumper sticker

[holmesuser01]

The 1960 my dad had looked like that grey one, almost... similar color, anyway.

Somebody is going to tell us to get a room if we dont stop this.

Back on topic, sort-of... Whats the deal with the purity ring? Is the one used early on different from what was used on the CTC-7? Thats the oldest one I've laid hands on.

[fsjonsey]

Originally Posted by kvflyer

I like the Nixon/Agnew bumper sticker

It has a few more now. This car is my relatively rust eaten daily-driver. I'm not worried about getting some adhesive on it. The silver car is an ongoing project. It's a rust free car from Arizona with 48,000 miles on the original 102hp engine. We repainted it it's original GM color last year, It had been earl scheib'd baby blue some time in the 70's. They didn't even take the bumpers off.


Sorry to derail again. I'm really done this time.

[Sandy G]

IIRC, the reason GM axed the Corvair in '65 was that it was a "Car unto itself"...Very little interchanged w/any other GM product...And THAT was a big No-No...Gm sent out an edict in'65 that the Corvair was to have NO updates, except Federally mandated ones...In '64, the 1968-69 cars would have been "planning"...The Corvair was quietly let go at the end of the '69 model year.

[fsjonsey]

Originally Posted by Sandy G

IIRC, the reason GM axed the Corvair in '65 was that it was a "Car unto itself"...Very little interchanged w/any other GM product...And THAT was a big No-No...Gm sent out an edict in'65 that the Corvair was to have NO updates, except Federally mandated ones...In '64, the 1968-69 cars would have been "planning"...The Corvair was quietly let go at the end of the '69 model year.

It was basically an entire line of vehicles within the Chevy lineup. A coupe, sedan, convertable, panel van, passenger van, station wagon (from 1961-62,) and light duty truck.

It was also one of the most expensive vehicles, in terms of production costs, that GM made at the time, and one of the cheapest they sold. See the problem here?

[Electronic M]

My dad's family had a Corvair until 1970 when the floors began to rust out, and my grandparents sold it because it was not all that safe for my dad who was 5 at the time or his younger brothers what with the rotten floor and all.

[Sandy G]

I remember a guy who had a '65 or '66 4-door sedan that I thought was VERY pretty..And my family doctor had a late series convertible...We had a house in North Carolina & both families went over there one weekend. It snowed, & my mom's '67 Mercury Colony Park wagon was HOPELESS in the snow, but that little Corvair went absolutely EVERYWHERE. I was truly impressed. I don't think a Jeep coulda done much better. This was in '68-'69, WAY before 4WD became fashionable.

[miniman82]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

My dad's family had a Corvair until 1970 when the floors began to rust out, and my grandparents sold it because it was not all that safe for my dad who was 5 at the time or his younger brothers what with the rotten floor and all.

Floor holes are 'unsafe at any speed'!


Now for CTC-5 related news- the new FP electrolytics came in the mail today, so I will spend the night replacing them and making the necessary wiring changes to make them work with the chassis. Since it was not possible to get exact replacements, I had to make a compromise.

The stock chassis has:

80uf/40uf@450 volts (x3)
50uf/50uf/5uf@450 volts (x1)

I order the following from AES:

40uf/40uf/40uf@525 volts (x3)
30uf/30uf/30uf/30uf@475 volts (x1)

To make the new ones work, the 40uf/40uf/40uf caps will have a pair of 40uf sections tied together to make them 80/40 cans. The 30/30/30/30 can will get paired as well, so I end up with a 60/60 to replace the original 50/50 one. The remaining 5uf section is only a horizontal output cathode bypass cap, so it's low enough voltage to be replaced by a common axial unit. After all of that, I'll power it up again and see where I stand. Probably will go right into tweaking the tuner and convergence.