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  #46  
Old 05-30-2012, 06:19 AM
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You could do it with diodes and just leave the old '80 in there lit up for show.
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  #47  
Old 05-30-2012, 11:37 PM
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Any concern about the B+ coming up immediately when it's turned on ?
For that matter, has anyone come across a solid state circuit that mimics a slow B+ rise like a real 80 would produce ?

Meanwhile, work continues on the tuner chassis.
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  #48  
Old 05-30-2012, 11:55 PM
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I dont think it would be an issue to have it come up immediately. Someone may have an idea on how to do it
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  #49  
Old 05-31-2012, 06:03 AM
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Put a CL-90 inrush current limiter right after the "on" switch. Makes it easy on tube filaments and it ramps up to line voltage slowly over about 20 seconds.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/pro...x?SKU=70181362
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Last edited by Reece; 05-31-2012 at 06:06 AM.
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  #50  
Old 05-31-2012, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
Any concern about the B+ coming up immediately when it's turned on ?
It shouldn't be an issue since all the tubes (except the '27) are direct-filament types and will load the B supply as fast (or faster) than the '80 can warm up.
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  #51  
Old 05-31-2012, 02:36 PM
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Yes. But the CL-90 will give the filaments a soft start in their old age (!)
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  #52  
Old 05-31-2012, 04:22 PM
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Not a bad idea. Especially considering a set of four NOS globe 26s just sold for $222.50! http://www.ebay.com/itm/261027170666
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  #53  
Old 06-09-2012, 01:50 AM
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I recently picked up another set of escutcheons and knobs. The originals with the dark patina are on the right.
Which do you think I should use ?
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  #54  
Old 06-09-2012, 06:48 AM
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You also have a third choice. Hardboil two eggs (yes! or boil three and use one for tuna salad for lunch.) Dice them in small pieces and put in a tight-sealing container. Put your shiny copper pieces into the container up on blocks, etc., so they aren't touching the eggs but are in the eggy H2S atmosphere (phew!) Check the next day for the patina. Leave another day if required. Might have to re-egg. Afterwards wash pieces, might want to lightly steel wool highlights, lacquer. Good-bye old egg parts. It's how I got patina on a too-shiny escutcheon on this radio:
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  #55  
Old 06-09-2012, 12:51 PM
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I'd go with the new ones, personally. The new ones look patinated, but the old ones just look beat up and crappy... I mean, they look like they were mistreated and tossed into a barn for 50 years, whereas the rest of the radio doesn't look like that anymore, so to me the old corroded parts would look very much out of place.

And anyway, even if you think the new ones are too shiny, as long as they're not coated with anything then they'll tarnish over time and start to take on more of the 'antique' dark look.
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  #56  
Old 06-10-2012, 01:17 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I just might try that egg trick.
Here's a closeup of one of the new pieces. It looks to me like someone did use an abrasive pad on it.


Here's the set with all the new trim installed.
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  #57  
Old 06-12-2012, 11:38 PM
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I'm just about done restoring the receiver chassis.


While working on it, I discovered this little "gimmick" coil that had been clipped out of the circuit.
It's shown in the wiring diagram but not the schematic. I'm going to wire it back in and see what effect it has.
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  #58  
Old 06-13-2012, 04:47 PM
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It's finally time for the first power up!


First signs of life
I'm able to tune around the dial and pick up a few stations but only weakly. Also, the volume control has no effect. Neither does moving around the antenna.
Further investigation revealed that pulling out the 1st #26 tube also had no effect. So clearly no signal is coming through from the antenna.
Hopefully, I just made a wiring error on that tube socket or RF coil.
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  #59  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:00 PM
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At least, NO SMOKE!!!
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  #60  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:35 PM
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With a TRF you can move the antenna wire down to the second tube, to the third, and so on. Signal will be weaker and selectivity less but the relative signal strength should point to a problem stage.
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