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  #1  
Old 09-12-2017, 02:10 AM
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I'm thinking of buying this Admiral

https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/a...300445685.html

The case looks nice. I don't know much about this stuff.

Thoughts?
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  #2  
Old 09-12-2017, 08:55 AM
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Looks well-worth $60 to me...even has the original back! Restored they're pretty good performers.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:02 AM
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It's a 1949 model 12X12 and well worth the price.

It has a 20Y1 chassis with a 12LP4 CRT. Seems to be less common than the earlier 10" version. Nice to have the metal back but the control door is missing and they are hard to find. Mine is missing too.

Here's what it would look like: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/457537643370097998/
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  #4  
Old 09-12-2017, 02:50 PM
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NEVER have seen a working model of these.
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  #5  
Old 09-12-2017, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy G View Post
NEVER have seen a working model of these.
I had one. CRT was almost dead so I had to turn the lights off to watch. Mine did have a good door though. Sold it to Dave (Dieseljeep) a few years back...I sorta miss that TV.
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  #6  
Old 09-12-2017, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy G View Post
NEVER have seen a working model of these.
A few years ago, I did a slow variac power-up of mine, which still has most of its original parts, and it worked ok.



Gotta give it a full recap job, one of these years.

jr
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:06 AM
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I saw that on CL too! I want it as well, but I'm not going to get it. Not interested in goin through Chicago for it. NOPE!


Shouldn't be hard to restore. I restored my 20X122 in exactly 1 week. Works great and has a great pic.
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Old 09-13-2017, 12:35 AM
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Wonder WHAT was the deal on the funny-shaped CRT ?!?
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  #9  
Old 09-13-2017, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandy G View Post
Wonder WHAT was the deal on the funny-shaped CRT ?!?
It's actually a pretty good compromise between the "double D" mask and the "porthole" presentation. For a 12 inch round jug the vertical display size is increased by about 1/4 inch... not much, but I think that it makes for a more pleasing display. Compare to the 12" Philco next to it.



IMHO, pretty nice.

jr
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  #10  
Old 09-13-2017, 09:49 PM
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Welp, I pulled the trigger.

I gotta say, the case is near immaculate. It has like a grand total of 2 small scratches that you can't even see at 5 feet away. The safety glass is plastic, and amazingly that's scratch-free, too. Inside there's a lot of dust, a mix of tubes, what looks like the original crt, no brightener, and all the pots and switches are free. It has the original metal back cover, and even the power cord, which is strangely still supple and intact. Oh, and it has this weird adjustable built-in antenna, and (I think) an adjustable electromagnetic focus ring? O_o

Sadly the crt tests near-dead.

I tried to bring the set alive on a variac and a wattmeter, but it was very quickly apparent that it wasn't having it. So here's the next question: do you think I could get away with just replacing the filter caps and making sure all the tubes are ok, in order to see if the crt will give me something? You know, before I go all the way and recap the whole thing?


Also, jr, I might have to hit you up for pictures of that front door thing, at some point in the future. :3
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  #11  
Old 09-13-2017, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
Welp, I pulled the trigger.

I gotta say, the case is near immaculate. It has like a grand total of 2 small scratches that you can't even see at 5 feet away. The safety glass is plastic, and amazingly that's scratch-free, too. Inside there's a lot of dust, a mix of tubes, what looks like the original crt, no brightener, and all the pots and switches are free. It has the original metal back cover, and even the power cord, which is strangely still supple and intact. Oh, and it has this weird adjustable built-in antenna, and (I think) an adjustable electromagnetic focus ring? O_o

Sadly the crt tests near-dead.

I tried to bring the set alive on a variac and a wattmeter, but it was very quickly apparent that it wasn't having it. So here's the next question: do you think I could get away with just replacing the filter caps and making sure all the tubes are ok, in order to see if the crt will give me something? You know, before I go all the way and recap the whole thing?


Also, jr, I might have to hit you up for pictures of that front door thing, at some point in the future. :3
Very cool!! Let's see some pictures when you get the chance.

Ya might be able to 3D print that door. It is 2017 after all.
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  #12  
Old 09-13-2017, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
(I think) an adjustable electromagnetic focus ring?
Sounds like an ion trap magnet, if it's an adjustable circular gizmo around the CRT neck. You can read about that and many other wonderful details in the Rider and Sams service manuals available at the ETF archive (scroll down to 20Y1):

http://www.earlytelevision.org/tv_sc...s_admiral.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
do you think I could get away with just replacing the filter caps and making sure all the tubes are ok, in order to see if the crt will give me something? You know, before I go all the way and recap the whole thing?
Sure, that's one approach. If your CRT is truly a dud, you still might not see anything, but at least you could measure key voltages and compare to the service manual values, and discover other things depending on what test equipment you have.

Also, as mrjukebox160 notes, some CRTs that look dead at first will "wake up" and show higher emission if you leave them on the tester for a while.

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  #13  
Old 09-14-2017, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMan View Post
... (I think) an adjustable electromagnetic focus ring?...
The focus coil is adjustable so you can center the picture.

Agree about letting the CRT cook for an hour or more. You could try elevating the filament voltage to around 7 while it's cooking too.
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  #14  
Old 09-13-2017, 11:05 PM
mrjukebox160 mrjukebox160 is offline
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How long did you leave the CRT on? It might wake up and if not it might rejuvenate.
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2017, 12:37 AM
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Some comments.

1. The focus coil can be tilted by moving a lever arm to position the trace... that is the odd arm sticking out of the back of the set.

2. You could try a power-up with the rectifier (5U4) removed, to see if the excessive power draw is caused by the filter caps...you should be able to light up all of the (good) tube heaters, without drawing excessive wattage.

3. Sure, I should be able to get halfway decent close-ups of the door with this iPad.

4. For sure, try an extended "wake up" of the jug.

jr
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