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The 106305 Deflection Yoke is a Y-107 according to my 1983 Thordarson TVPG-15 book. The Sams 459, page 11, doesn't cross it.
Check the horizontal centering pot on the flyback and the brown dipped caps in the vicinity, as well as the 56pF 6KV disc. Mine were all off and leaking. The current went way down after replacement. Last edited by Sparky; 09-28-2018 at 12:35 PM. |
#2
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I had to replace the horizontal width pot as the fine wire was all tangled up inside and believe it shorted out taking the resistor on the back of it and the horizontal winding on the original yoke with it. I also replaced the two caps in that area. I now have HV but it needs to be reduced. |
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Progress so far;
HV is 29+KV and turning up the horizontal makes it go higher. Chassis is back out for resistor checks and cap replacing Starting with the horizontal board and vertical board |
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ALL caps are suspect after another remote session today. I hope you have a good cap checker that has leakage & rated voltage like the Sencore. Check at the linearity coil. Brown caps were all leaking at 200V & 600V ratings. Try not to use any yellow caps in the AC current circuits. HV bypass is OK but not current. I know, as see you are using Orange Drops, but I am speaking to the uninformed.
BTW same tangled mess in the pot. I guess your yoke is OK or is that another one? Keep us posted! Quote:
Last edited by Sparky; 10-01-2018 at 09:47 PM. |
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The original complaint was that the horizontal wouldn't hold/breakup if close to lock.
I replaced some bumblebee caps in the horizontal section. Great go home. Next is a call that the vertical is bad. I go back and fix the lack of vertical/height. The next call is that there is no sound, just a faint buzz at high volume. It was then decided to solder all ground supports for the boards and any suspicious areas as well. I note that something is noisy in the audio detector area. Tapping there produces lots of loud noise in the speaker. Okay, change the 6DT6, nope. Narrowed it down to A11. While I'm in there, I take out the very microphonic A11 the quadrature trap. Then I noticed it. A piece of half clipped wire still attached to the center leg to one of the outer legs, shorting the winding. This was factory, as it was still connected to its master wire. Removed, reinstalled and aligned. Nice audio. Shame RCA. Let's check the flyback as it looked like a lot of wax was on the bottom of the box, not unusual for a 59 year old TV. Gahhhh! there is the 56pF cap with burn marks across the ground side of the cap from the bottom 22MΩ resistor. Replace what I have with me, clean what I don't. I never could get the H centering pot to move. Let's look at that. Frozen or should I say burnt in place. A 90 mile round trip ride later back to my house, I have one. Need some resistors that are burned up in there too. Remove and replace. All looks good. Tested and all is good again. Now let's look at some more caps and test for leakage. Remove, replace, reinstall chassis. It's now around 1AM. No video. Well there is. Out of brightness and focus with a blue tint. The CRT socket is apparently intermittent. Next visit We're done for the night. Now to this Oct 1st weekend. I made up a socket assembly from a bare short clipped unit. I found wire to match the original colors, just because. Dissembled the TV and benched it to look at the dissembled socket by drilling out the rivets. One of the factory solder connections to something blue related (I don't care at this point) which was never done. Solder it. Shame RCA. Check the focus connection. All fuzzy white, with a corroded pin and receiver. Clean Clean Clean. Replaced the chassis and all is good. Still seems a bit narrow though. The vertical is not filling the CRT as well. Boost Voltage. Check the B+ you say. A bit low. 340 something volts instead of the 385V. Before the filter reactor the same. Line voltage is optimal. It's late again..... Parts on order for next weekend's failure adventure. All this on a TV that looked good after the first repair... Last edited by Sparky; 10-02-2018 at 07:14 AM. |
Audiokarma |
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First, go through the complete horizontal setup procedure and make sure to minimize the horizontal cathode current. The schematic probably quotes a max somewhere around 210mA when adjusted correctly it should never go above 200mA and 175-195mA is the typical minimum achievable. (this can be influenced by line and B+ voltage so feeding it a constant optimum line voltage through a regulating isolation transformer is a good move) If you can't get it more than 10mA below the max spec you may want to go over the parts in the horizontal section with a fine tooth comb to improve performance. Second, if the first steps have been successfully run the set for intervals between 30 min and 4hours then power the set off and quickly feel it's temperature if it is close to body temp or cooler your good, but if it feels uncomfortably hot add some ventilation holes and or a cooling fan to the HV cage. I've run sets with worse looking flys for years on daily driver status with this method and had 0 fly failures from it.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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She's a real beauty. Takes me back to the 70's when I was servicing these "old" TV's. Old, if old is 20 years.
Didn't see if your yoke was any good or not. Let me know please. Like the man said, check all the caps in and under the flyback cage. Check the 6DQ5 current. The 3A3 plate cap was burnt and changed to a Millen ceramic type. Check your Globar, this one's fell apart. Fuse the primary and change the N fuseholder to an AGC type. I don't do bayonet fuses, wire links of #28 or Belfuses. BTW since changing caps in the flyback area, the power transformer runs a lot cooler. Last edited by Sparky; 10-02-2018 at 05:50 PM. |
Audiokarma |
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