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  #31  
Old 02-18-2012, 12:30 AM
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mstaton mstaton is offline
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That's the wonderful world of Plasma!
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  #32  
Old 02-18-2012, 01:04 AM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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Yea, the wonderful world of junk. I dont touch them anymore. i shoot any of them I see for the fun of it. They are not worth fixing unless its a newer one, such as the LG slimlines, or etc...

the old fat heavy junkers with bad buffers/sustain, they are garbage. By the time you pay for a new/rebuilt sustain and buffers, you could have bought 2 brand new ones for that price.

And not to mention, god only knows how many hours are on that panel.

I think the one I see the most of are the PDP42V6 variants that have the blown buffers. I have one now with bad buffers and I tried to rebuild the sustain, it blows every set of buffers you put in. So its junk as well. 3 good panels and not 1 good set.
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  #33  
Old 02-18-2012, 01:11 AM
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mstaton mstaton is offline
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Yes so true. I only use Sony LCD's. 52" and 47". Both were free but needed minor repairs. Have been working great for over 2 and 1/2 years. Both were tcon issues. Lcd's are sooooo much easier to work on unless there is a panel problem. Lots of Sony's and Samsungs with bad panels. I junked about 50 of them for parts. got lucky with 2 my sony's.
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  #34  
Old 02-18-2012, 12:15 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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I have a 47" Sony bravia LCD I cant figure out whats wrong with it. it seems to have 2 large heatsinks on the t-con board.

first turn it on, picture is doubled/flashes/ghosts and appears to be missing odd scan lines.

as it warms up, the better it gets and it gets perfect. slowly though its taking longer and longer before it gets better.
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  #35  
Old 02-18-2012, 12:27 PM
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CoogarXR CoogarXR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbates14 View Post
I have a 47" Sony bravia LCD I cant figure out whats wrong with it. it seems to have 2 large heatsinks on the t-con board.

first turn it on, picture is doubled/flashes/ghosts and appears to be missing odd scan lines.

as it warms up, the better it gets and it gets perfect. slowly though its taking longer and longer before it gets better.
Many of those bravia's have panel issues. The chip that is embedded in the ribbon cables lose their bond. When you first turn on the tv, take your hand and whack the corner of the bezel (usually the upper right side) and I bet the picture will straighten out. It's barbaric but it works.
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  #36  
Old 02-18-2012, 01:21 PM
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You can also twist the set slightly and it will work also. A hand on each corner. Could be a bad tcon but you should make sure first. I twisted and banged on mine for days to make sure before I spent the money. Yeah some tcon's have fairly large heatsinks. Mine has a 2 piece tcon. Just replaced both to make sure. It's a 2007 model but is considered "old" by today's standards. LOL I thought my roundies were "old".
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  #37  
Old 02-18-2012, 03:00 PM
Geoff Bourquin Geoff Bourquin is offline
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I've run into quite a few of those 2008-ish Sonys with bad panels. Also seen a couple Mitsubishi and some Toshiba, and of course Samsung (they made all of the panels I've seen with that bad bond on the ribbons). There are some Youtube videos showing how to "fix" that, by putting shims against the chips to restore the connections. I feel OK with it for myself because when it fails again I don't have to answer to anyone but myself. (And my wife.) I wouldn't do a fix like that for someone else. I also worry about the heat those drivers generate. They get dang hot, and with rubber shims in there the heat cant get away very well which I suspect will accelerate the demise of the chips. I have tried it a few times. Usually lasts a few months or less.
I have fixed the T-CONs on a few of those. I have seen the fuse open on them, and have usually found it opened because of a shorted MLCC somewhere on the board. New fuse, new cap or just crush the bad one, (if I can figure out which one it is) and good to go. I recently confirmed a couple of them I fixed about 2 years ago are still running.

Getting back on the main topic of this thread, I agree with everyone else...Trying to fix one of those plasma sets is risky at best. I usually tell people to take the money repair will cost and put it into a new set. Some sets I simply refuse the job. I'd rather have them pissed at me because I DIDN'T take their money than because I did and the set didn't last
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  #38  
Old 02-18-2012, 03:07 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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I tell you one thing ive ran into alot lately is the hitachi and mitsubishi LCD projection TVs with burned polerizors in the engine.

Luckily I have been getting away with replacing the polarizors without replacing the engine.
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  #39  
Old 02-18-2012, 04:15 PM
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Those are a whole different ballgame. Different issues than LCD or plasma. Yes i know DLP's have LCD's in them. Totally different problems. Sony's and hitachi's are the worst. Big yellow, green or blue blobs, blue spots etc
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  #40  
Old 02-18-2012, 05:15 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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well yea, i know. its just a random thing that crossed my mind while we were on the subject. and DLPs dont have LCDs in them, they have DMD chips.

the Sony used a weird setup. they didnt use a passive LCD panel, they used a transflective panel that loved to FAIL with the green blob.
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  #41  
Old 02-18-2012, 05:35 PM
Geoff Bourquin Geoff Bourquin is offline
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How many times have you had someone ask you for a lamp for one of those Sonys, and when you ask if the picture looked good before the lamp failed they swear it was like new perfect, only you find out a few days later that perfect means assorted shades of yellowish green?
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  #42  
Old 02-18-2012, 05:45 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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ALOT actually.

Thats how i got this mitsubishi. it was a super dark picture that was only yellow. he said it was great before lamp blew.

I replaced the lamp, only to find out it was an LCD projection and not a DLP and had this problem. Ripped the engine apart to find out the blue polarizor was toast, AND the polarization grating for the lamp was also burned. I dont have another one of those, so i just removed it. it didnt affect the brightness that much, and its much brighter than it "was".

I replaced the blue polarizor and got the blue back, although theres blue fringing in the corners and the blue isnt very vibrant because it affected the front polarizor as well as the rear, and i dont have a front polarizor.

these polarizors are special, because they only polarize a specific wavelength of light. the rest pass. But regardless, replacing the rear one on the blue side brought my blue back. it just not a vibrant blue as the front one is also damaged.
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  #43  
Old 02-18-2012, 06:41 PM
Geoff Bourquin Geoff Bourquin is offline
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The blue polarizer seems to be the first to get toasted. I think it is because of the huge amount of ultraviolet that comes out of the lamps, especially when they are cold
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  #44  
Old 02-18-2012, 06:59 PM
mbates14 mbates14 is offline
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ya its funny though, becuase the older LCD projectors didnt really do this that often except for the newer stuff.

Ive also seen that everyone one of the burned polarizors that the intake filter inside the engine is plugged beyond belief.
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