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  #16  
Old 08-09-2018, 09:33 PM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
House brands like Insignia still exist. Sears from the daays of crank gramophones to some time in the 60's or 70's used the Silvertone badge for gear made by a wide variety of makers. The Sears badging appeared later.
The Silvertone name remained until about 1974 when Sanyo bought out Warwick. The Silvertone name was on the higher line products. In the early 60's they started using the Sears brand name on some of the imported sets.
Before that, the real cheapie line was badged "Meteor". That name probably went back to the 30's.
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2018, 01:49 AM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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What was the deal with Sanyo and buying companies back then? I believe Sanyo bought Fisher around the same time, and then bought Marantz later. I have worked on Marantz gear that was built the exact same as later Sanyo era fisher stuff. It's been a few years though.

I tested the tube today in this Sears set after finding a #23 adapter. The CRT tests very good and I made sure to test it following the manual, then found a video online to follow just in case there was a mistake. Now it seems time for the LUM section to get resoldered and checked. It really is nice to know the CRT is good rather than just dig into a tv that could be a lost cause.

Also the way this set is built is super cool. The two board chassis design is something I haven't seen yet. Most sets here either have one single board, or they're a Zenith set with boards all over the place.
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  #18  
Old 08-14-2018, 03:34 PM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Resoldering did nothing, so I will have to pull the board.

When the set is powered on, there is an extremely bright blue and green dot on the screen. What is this?
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  #19  
Old 08-14-2018, 06:18 PM
zeno zeno is offline
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Before you go further make 2 DC measurements.
1) measure the collector of one of the 3 video outputs on
the CRT socket.
2) the G-2 ( screen ) voltage at the CRT socket.

This narrows things down.
The colored blobs are normally seen at turn off & is usually normal.
BTW try the G-2 control on the FBT. Just turn it up a tad.

73 Zeno
LFOD !


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealtest View Post
Resoldering did nothing, so I will have to pull the board.

When the set is powered on, there is an extremely bright blue and green dot on the screen. What is this?
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  #20  
Old 08-15-2018, 12:25 AM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Before you go further make 2 DC measurements.
1) measure the collector of one of the 3 video outputs on
the CRT socket.
2) the G-2 ( screen ) voltage at the CRT socket.

This narrows things down.
The colored blobs are normally seen at turn off & is usually normal.
BTW try the G-2 control on the FBT. Just turn it up a tad.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
I have a lot of stupid questions since i have never really taken a voltage measurement on the CRT out of fear of damaging tools.

What is the collector and where do I find it? I'm also not sure how to measure the G2 voltage. I know of the G2 controls but not where to check the voltages.

Which G2 control and what is the "FBT"? Sorry about the stupid questions.
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  #21  
Old 08-15-2018, 01:04 AM
ESigma25 ESigma25 is offline
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FBT is flyback transformer! Can't help you with the rest though...
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  #22  
Old 08-15-2018, 11:53 AM
zeno zeno is offline
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Look at CRT socket. The 3 color outputs have white paint on
the PCB. They are marked E B & C measure the C in DC volts.
The G-2 should be marked too. Use a meter rated at 800-1000
volts as it can be adjusted that high. Normal voltage is apx 400-500.

Almost all in line tubes will have the same set up & its common
to make tests here.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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  #23  
Old 08-15-2018, 12:38 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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If your meter does not go beyond 600V you can get more range by finding a 200-400V B+ rail. Measure the B+ rail with respect to ground, then measure the G2 with respect to the B+ rail then add the two measurements to get the real G2 voltage.
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2018, 11:36 PM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Look at CRT socket. The 3 color outputs have white paint on
the PCB. They are marked E B & C measure the C in DC volts.
The G-2 should be marked too. Use a meter rated at 800-1000
volts as it can be adjusted that high. Normal voltage is apx 400-500.

Almost all in line tubes will have the same set up & its common
to make tests here.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

The three color controls had no markings for what was what, and the only things with the E C & B markings are transistors on the neck board.

I tested the voltages on the controls and got nothing on DC, then figured I misread something and tried AC. Still no voltage. I grabbed another meter and still got nothing. So the issue is the neck board?

Have to admit it, but the high voltages can be a bit scary sometimes.
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  #25  
Old 08-16-2018, 08:31 AM
zeno zeno is offline
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Measure at the C of one of the transistors. Not the
controls.
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  #26  
Old 08-16-2018, 10:30 PM
Sealtest Sealtest is offline
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My bad. I should have realized that.

The voltages I got were 121, 123, and 127 volts DC.
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  #27  
Old 08-17-2018, 09:40 AM
zeno zeno is offline
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They are normal.
Try turning the G-2 control up a little.
Also check the CRT socket for cold joints.

73 Zeno
LFOD !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealtest View Post
My bad. I should have realized that.

The voltages I got were 121, 123, and 127 volts DC.
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  #28  
Old 08-21-2018, 03:09 PM
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KentTeffeteller KentTeffeteller is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sealtest View Post
What was the deal with Sanyo and buying companies back then? I believe Sanyo bought Fisher around the same time, and then bought Marantz later. I have worked on Marantz gear that was built the exact same as later Sanyo era fisher stuff. It's been a few years though.

I tested the tube today in this Sears set after finding a #23 adapter. The CRT tests very good and I made sure to test it following the manual, then found a video online to follow just in case there was a mistake. Now it seems time for the LUM section to get resoldered and checked. It really is nice to know the CRT is good rather than just dig into a tv that could be a lost cause.

Also the way this set is built is super cool. The two board chassis design is something I haven't seen yet. Most sets here either have one single board, or they're a Zenith set with boards all over the place.
Sanyo never owned Marantz. They owned Fisher. The cheapie Marantz gear you refer to was when Marantz was owned by B&K/Dynascan and common rent to own store fare, and I bet outsourced to Sanyo to build, when Marantz hit rock bottom. In between the SuperScope and Philips era. During the B&K/DynaScan era, there was Marantz Japan which was not available here except for a few items. Who made much better equipment than was then offered here in the same time frame (and some of it was sold here as top of the line Marantz offerings by B&K)

Silvertone was indeed bought by Sanyo, as it was part of the Warwick Electronics purchase by Sanyo. The Arkansas Plant became the Sanyo TV plant, and under Sanyo ownership went from bottom of the barrel, to one of the most reliable TV plants in the industry, by cleaning up the plant, and by vastly improved quality control practices and better management.

Last edited by KentTeffeteller; 08-21-2018 at 03:14 PM.
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