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#1
10-07-2012, 11:53 PM
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CTC-5N is a deluxe, much better set. Not sure about the metal disk. Mine has been converted to a all glass CYP CRT with the conversion kit. Has the newer yoke cover.
__________________
"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee 
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#2
10-08-2012, 04:33 PM
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I tried 3 different 6CG7's all the same, vert hold at the extreme end of the range, so I will pull the chassis and check out the resistors and replace those old caps (I did not even check to see if they were the right value, I have often found the wrong values used for replacements.
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#3
10-08-2012, 04:46 PM
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I was just about ready to pull the chassis and I see this monster a$$ lizrd sitting on the flyback cover, Geez if I had been pulling that chassis and that monster jumped on me I would have prob dropped the damn thing. I tried to knock him out but not sure if he went to the floor or just deeper into the set.
Now don't get me wrong I really like them as they eat bugs, but this thing was HUGE. I know the wife would freak out if it came in the house.
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#4
10-08-2012, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Now, back to that repair!
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#5
10-09-2012, 03:35 PM
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well a .01 was replaced by a .0033, but I think its just part of the integrater, C506, so I don't think it would effect the timing of the osc, but I am not sure about that. I will put the correct cap in anyway. I confirmed the .01 by checking another chassis and indeed it was a .01.
Next up I will need to check the 6.8meg 5% resistor that goes to the vert hold pot, and then finally the 820k from the screen of the vert out to the pot, seems to form a voltage divider from the 300v to ground thru the vert hold pot. will also look at the 39k resistor in the feed back circuit and a couple others there as well.
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#6
10-12-2012, 05:49 PM
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If you want to add a horizontal drive control, I added one to my Wingate. It can help with setting up the horizontal section, and I even went one step further with a HV pot.
__________________
Evolution... 
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#8
10-12-2012, 07:43 PM
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hmmm I see the cathode fuse is thru an 82 ohm resistor AND all the DC convergence pots. I can see how drift there would account for my 12v reading. I would have rather the the schematic give a current reading. I did dip the current with the eff coil, but very little improvement (it was pretty close to the dip already. I suppose I should check the HO tube control grid, there is no PP given but it does say -40v. It looks like it taps into the horz osc tube for some grid bias, with a voltage divider that also feeds the video out (assume H blanking for the Y signal). If I dont get the -40v I will take a look at those resistors a 1 meg and a 470k.
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#9
10-13-2012, 01:50 PM
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home depot snap on lids, 79c each.
It does indeed fit perfect, snaps right on with enough force to keep it in place but not so much as to stress anything. I just held the metal shield in place left the brass rivits in place, used an exacto blade to open up small holes where the rivits could then be pressed thru (the hole was small enough so I had to "work" the flattened part thru. after that I used the exacto to open up a center hole using the now installed shield center hole as a guide. 5 min tops.
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#10
10-14-2012, 01:00 PM
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is there some trick to adj the static convergence coils that are buried back in the chassis? Seems like a major PITA to get a micro screwdriver on them and the idea of going back and forth is a nightmare.
I am going to see if I can build a custom tool that allows you to slide over the screw holding the screw driver in place. Maybe just a bit of brass tubing slipped over the screwdriver would do the trick...
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#11
10-14-2012, 01:36 PM
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They do make a tool for that. You will need to get it from a local electronics supply store(if there is any anymore).
__________________
"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee
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#12
10-14-2012, 02:30 PM
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I was not seeing much action when fiddling with the various coils. I wanted to confirm that the H pulse was getting there, I scoped U1 and see about 65v horz pulse so that part is good. I will get my tools together and see whats up. I wonder if its possible some of those 22 ohm resistors across the coils have opened up? they are big, looks like 2watt and 10%, can not test them in circuit, if I have no luck with the cross hatch and following the directions I will have to go there.
Last edited by DaveWM; 10-14-2012 at 02:46 PM.
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#13
10-14-2012, 03:08 PM
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a ha!
while checking the convergence coils out (all good) at the male convergence pins, I next check started to check the female pin on the chassis, 1st up was the ground... hmm no ground to chassis, pull the chassis back a bit, got the flashlight out, whats this the ground buss is clipped! no ground for the convergence coils, well gee no wonder they did not seem to be working (at least the dynamic) Not sure why that would have been clipped, I know I would not of done it since it was just a ground to a connector that would have been unplugged so no need to clip it out. Taking a break know but hope to report back soon...
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#14
10-14-2012, 03:41 PM
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Sometimes it's a simple cure. Glad you found it.
__________________
"It's a mad mad mad mad world" !! http://www.youtube.com/user/mwstaton64?feature=mhee
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#15
10-14-2012, 04:52 PM
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hopefully that will make it work, while I had the chassis out I replaced the old .0039/68ohm fix done some time ago. figured I may as well replace that cap as well. I checked to see if the 330pf had been changed to the 390pf per the fix but that was not done. I assume its some kind of improvement on video response, but as I did not happen to have a 390pf on hand I left it alone.
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