New Purchase- Philco Transitone set!

[Magnavox300]

Thought this set looked very cool, got it for $45.00
Everthing is there, and looks like a good project.
Took the chassis out, and was wondering if the wire going into the CRT looked right??
Also, The black is peeling off the CRT, anyone know what I should get to re paint it with, if it is a paint?

Magnavox300

[truetone36]

The anode to the CRT should have a rubber piece like a suction cup on it, I'd be afraid of that one as it is. Also, the coating on the CRT is called Aquadag. I don't know if it's available or not, but I have heard that suitable substitutes can be found. The coating is supposed to be conductive to a certain degree. IIRC some other VK'ers have been able to find solutions to peeling Aquadag and hopefully they'll chime in here. That's a nice set, BTW.

[radiotron]

Originally Posted by truetone36

The anode to the CRT should have a rubber piece like a suction cup on it, I'd be afraid of that one as it is. Also, the coating on the CRT is called Aquadag. I don't know if it's available or not, but I have heard that suitable substitutes can be found. The coating is supposed to be conductive to a certain degree. IIRC some other VK'ers have been able to find solutions to peeling Aquadag and hopefully they'll chime in here. That's a nice set, BTW.

nope! surprisingly a lot of philcos (predicta era) had no cup my pedicta was like that, and worked perfect.

[holmesuser01]

My RCA roundie color set had a clip on anode connector like that for alot of years. It produced 21KV.

[DaveWM]

I have used a product called "slip plate" to replace dag. Just clean off the old 1st, mask out where you dont want it (aound the anode should have NO dag, if you can see where the old dad stopped then just mask off about 3" dia circle around the CRT anode. Its a spray on product, put on a few coats and you are good to go.

[DaveWM]

I see lotsa bumblee bees in there...

[Eric H]

I just rebuilt one very similar to that, the Anode doesn't have a cup.
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php...ghlight=philco

The PC boards used in these are really a pain to work on, mine had a coating of something over them, probably to help protect them from corrosion.

Every time I unsoldered a part the Foil wanted to come loose too, it was a real pain to recap.

Like the Predicta you have to unbolt the PC boards and remove some wires to gain access.

I replaced the CRT in mine because it was tired, I had to re-dag the replacement tube also, I used Aerodag because I happened to have some, Slip Plate works fine too, in fact I think it looks a little better and is more durable.

Keep the Dag away from the Anode and also away from where the Yoke windings contact the tube.

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by holmesuser01

My RCA roundie color set had a clip on anode connector like that for alot of years. It produced 21KV.

Great, I wasn't sure. So that is intentionally like that?
It's a clip on anode? Can I easily remove it , or unclip it,
to clean up the CRT?

[Magnavox300]

Originally Posted by holmesuser01 View Post
My RCA roundie color set had a clip on anode connector like that for alot of years. It produced 21KV.

Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
I just rebuilt one very similar to that, the Anode doesn't have a cup.
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php...ghlight=philco

The PC boards used in these are really a pain to work on, mine had a coating of something over them, probably to help protect them from corrosion.

Every time I unsoldered a part the Foil wanted to come loose too, it was a real pain to recap.

Like the Predicta you have to unbolt the PC boards and remove some wires to gain access.

I replaced the CRT in mine because it was tired, I had to re-dag the replacement tube also, I used Aerodag because I happened to have some, Slip Plate works fine too, in fact I think it looks a little better and is more durable.

Keep the Dag away from the Anode and also away from where the Yoke windings contact the tube.

Thanks for all the info, I was looking at the PC board, and figured I needed to take it off to unsolder the caps. Looks like a little extra patience will be needed! Will get some slip plate too...
Is the anode easily removed?

[Don Lindsly]

That anode lead did not originally have a rubber cup over it. It is fine.

[Eric H]

Originally Posted by Magnavox300

Is the anode easily removed?

Yes, just make sure it's discharged, screwdriver from anode to ground will do it, then just push it to one side and unhook it.

[Magnavox300]

Well, while I am waiting to find a CRT tester,
I decided to fool around with the set today, cleaning it, and replaced a horz. tube that was the only one not lighting up, the one that connects to the wire out of the HV cage.
Turned it on, still no picture at all.
Took out the Vertical tubes, and a few others, cleaned the pins, and used Deoxit in the tube sockets, tapped a few things, moved a few wires around,
turned it on again, and finally something!!

I hope this is a good enough sign to go ahead and redo this set.....

[Phil Nelson]

Amazing how cleaning tube pins magically cures mysterious problems

Yes, it's a good sign that the CRT lights up. It's capable of making some kind of a picture. You're getting some HV. And the sweep sections are trying to work.

Don't play the TV for more than a minute with that bright horizontal line, or you may burn a dark horizontal line in the CRT's phosphor that's impossible to fix.

If you feel compelled to play it anyway, turn down the brightness & contrast to make the line as dim as possible.

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

[Magnavox300]

Thanks, I only had it on for a minute or even less just a few times.
I won't turn it on again till it's recapped.
I actually decided to use Deoxit in the sockets and clean the pins from looking at your old radio site yesterday....
Thanks again!

[Magnavox300]

Took the chassis out, as well as the CRT.
Ordered all the caps, under $25, cheapest order so far!
I had a couple electrolytics left over from the portable Admiral I redid.
Scraped off the peeling Aquadag from the CRT;
Have to order Slip Plate tomorrow.
I was surprised the outer glare screen was plastic on this set?
It's pretty scratched up too, anyone know what could clean it up and get rid of some of those scratches?