Sylvania Saratoga Restoration - Page 4 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

miniman82 · #46 05-01-2012, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by holmesuser01

What is the type number of the Corotron tube? I've got loads of TV tube pulls.

It's not a glass tube, it's a metal regulator. Very hard, if not impossible to find. If it's bad, I'll end up doing the 6BK4 mod to control HV.

Just for kicks though, the numbers from the side of the tube are:

13-93967
M125-24

Part number in Sams is:

624-0004

Chris, I got lucky on these caps. Sometimes I can just grasp and twist and they come right off like these ones did, other times I end up removing them from the chassis to do something a little more drastic. One time I placed a cap in a plastic bag and dunked it in boiling water to loosen the old tar, seemed to work out OK. Most times it's a total loss and the tar is on there too good, so you end up cutting them off like Phil said.

holmesuser01 · #47 05-01-2012, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82

It's not a glass tube, it's a metal regulator. Very hard, if not impossible to find. If it's bad, I'll end up doing the 6BK4 mod to control HV.

Just for kicks though, the numbers from the side of the tube are:

13-93967
M125-24

Part number in Sams is:

624-0004

Oh, I see. I wondered why I'd never heard of this before... Hey, If I had found one, You'd been welcome to it!!

Bruce

miniman82 · #48 05-01-2012, 08:02 PM

It's only used on a few sets that I know of, this one and the Philco prototype that Folsom has. Keep your eyes peeled, if you find one I'll definitely take it!

radio nut · #49 05-01-2012, 08:15 PM

can you take a picture of that regulator?I would be more than happy to check Fair Radio for it. They probably have a million things that are not in their catalog because they only have one or two of them. I have walked the building for hours and found all sorts of interesting things

miniman82 · #50 05-01-2012, 09:41 PM

Sure, here ya go.

ohohyodafarted · #51 05-01-2012, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82

It's only used on a few sets that I know of, this one and the Philco prototype that Folsom has. Keep your eyes peeled, if you find one I'll definitely take it!

It was also used in the my Motorola 16CK1 15" color set, but the one in my Motorola was bad, so I had to do the 6BK4 mod to it.

miniman82 · #52 05-01-2012, 09:59 PM

I found the company on the net and sent an email, but I don't think they will be of much help. These things always seem to end up being a wild goose chase.

David Roper · #53 05-01-2012, 10:31 PM

The contemporary GE set used a corotron as well.

ChrisW6ATV · #54 05-02-2012, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Nelson

I have usually been able to pull cardboard covers off after softening the tarry adhesive with a heat gun. Some of that tar is really tenacious, but with patience the heat gun usually works. In a couple of cases I got impatient and slit the cover up one side with a razor to speed the process. After restuffing, I glued the cover back together and put the slit side where it wasn't visible.

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82

Chris, I got lucky on these caps. Sometimes I can just grasp and twist and they come right off like these ones did, other times I end up removing them from the chassis to do something a little more drastic. One time I placed a cap in a plastic bag and dunked it in boiling water to loosen the old tar, seemed to work out OK. Most times it's a total loss and the tar is on there too good, so you end up cutting them off like Phil said.

Thank you both for the notes. I am going to start restuffing the electrolytics on my CT-100, so I plan to try the "untwist the prongs" method on some or all of them.

The Sylvania set is a nice project, I look forward to your success with its restoration.

radio nut · #55 05-09-2012, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82

Sure, here ya go.

I talked to the owner of Fair Radio. He has some of those tubes.......somewhere.

The owner is currently working on a project but will keep that tube in mind and if I see'e any he will let me know. I will start looking myself next time I go in.

There are plenty of hiding places for oddball items so they might be found or might not but I will keep you posted. I have seen them there before, but where............

miniman82 · #56 05-09-2012, 03:05 PM

Ran up the chassis to check HV last night, got a solid 21kv so it looks like the Corotron is still good. After making a few checks, I discovered that the B++ line was at only 40 VDC. Tracing it back to it's source revealed an open 1600 ohm 15 watt power resistor, replacing it fixed the problem. Then while attempting to pass a luma ladder through the front end, I also noticed that AGC was really unstable. Finally it quite working all together, and there was no signal. Problem again ended up being a bad power resistor feeding the IF and tuner, this time an 1100 ohm 10 watt job. I don't have one of those laying around, so repairs will have to wait till I can ge that resistor replaced. Apparently they used some pretty low quality resistors in this chassis...

holmesuser01 · #57 05-09-2012, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miniman82

Ran up the chassis to check HV last night, got a solid 21kv so it looks like the Corotron is still good. After making a few checks, I discovered that the B++ line was at only 40 VDC. Tracing it back to it's source revealed an open 1600 ohm 15 watt power resistor, replacing it fixed the problem. Then while attempting to pass a luma ladder through the front end, I also noticed that AGC was really unstable. Finally it quite working all together, and there was no signal. Problem again ended up being a bad power resistor feeding the IF and tuner, this time an 1100 ohm 10 watt job. I don't have one of those laying around, so repairs will have to wait till I can ge that resistor replaced. Apparently they used some pretty low quality resistors in this chassis...

I love it. Wondering here how long the designers of this set wanted it to last anyway? Most of those guys are dead and gone now. We owe it to them to keep these sets operating. This helps to keep them in our memories, and they arent really gone, then, are they?

I look forward to seeing this set producing its first images.

Bruce

miniman82 · #58 05-09-2012, 08:47 PM

I doubt they were meant to last more than 5-10 years, the fact that any are around at all is a testament to good engineering and a bit of dumb luck. This chassis looks like it was really run into the ground- bunch of bad/weak tubes, burnt up resistors, covered in tar and grime... It's a wonder it works at all.

Oh, BTW: Bob has graciously allowed me to borrow his HV cage, so I can have it reproduced. The one for this set was missing, so it's a very lucky thing that Bob who happens to own one of these rare sets let me copy his good one. It's at the metalworking shop right now, instead of drilled vent holes I'm going to have louvers punched into it. Should look pretty nice when it's done.

sweitzel · #59 05-10-2012, 12:19 AM

I noticed the logo looked suspiciously like "Victoreen" which sparked (no pun intended) up my curiosity since I have a cinema projector xenon lamphouse that uses a victoreen spark gap to ignite the bulb and was shorted.

Anyway, Some light googling led me to this page.. is this of any help for people with bad Corotrons?

http://www.logwell.com/products/HV_regulators.html

miniman82 · #60 05-10-2012, 12:26 AM

These are all 'low(er)' voltage devices, the 20+kv ones weren't made for very long.