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How to rebuild a filter capacitor
I rebuilt a filter capacitor and took some detail pictures on how to do it and the procedure to do it. The cap show is for Carmines 24NC31 chassis Zenith. Hopefully this helps those who are curious and want to try it out. They're fun to rebuild, like a small puzzle to see how you can make it all work.
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22501148 |
#2
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Doug, very nice presentation, you do neat work.
I never realized the mounting ring was a separate piece, I've always cut it off above the step, I'll have to try this method the next time. This is such a common subject that comes up I think it should be a Sticky. |
#3
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Yes, that's a great presentation! I haven't tried doing this, but after seeing your steps, I might have to give this a whirl.
Curious... how long does it take you start to finish?
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Charlie Trahan He who dies with the most toys still dies. |
#4
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Wow Doug... Fantastic work.
I will admit that I was curious why you went to the trouble of hooking the leads through the bottom of the wafer insulator, until you explained it: Quote:
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From Captain Video, 1/4/2007 "It seems that Italian people are very prone to preserve antique stuff." |
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Excellent and tidy work, Doug. Another vote for a sticky.
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Jordan |
Audiokarma |
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Bravo
Yes, sticky please. Perhaps relocate to the Vintage TV & Radio Tech Forum ? |
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Doug,
I noticed the original 4uF sections were rated at 475V, but the replacements are 450V - can they be de-rated like that in that chassis? Cheers,
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
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Quote:
TVL-4813.2 80/4+4/200uF 475/450+450/25VDC
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
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What a great teacher you are. I certainly learned somethng new today!
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#10
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Hello Guys,
I do mine almost the same but I just don't do the foam thing Well done thinks for that slideshow |
Audiokarma |
#11
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Quote:
Also, didn't see this mentioned in the presentation, I prefer using new 105 deg C rated capacitors and not the cheap 85 deg C consumer stuff when doing the rebuild. |
#12
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I tend to wrap the new innards in electrical tape instead of foaming the can.
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#13
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Can anyone summarize the advantages/disadvantages of placing new electrolytics in the old cans versus hiding modern caps under the chassis (as I have done on a few Zenith T/Os, a 1935 RCA console radio, and a few others)?
Which gets hotter, the space under the chassis, or inside a can with other caps? More electrolytic questions: - The voltage doubler circuit in the Zenith color roundie I am about to re-cap (24MC32 chassis, Photofact 769-4) uses an oddball value of 160μfd - can I safely take it up to 220μfd? (I might mention here that the doubler is unusually working from the secondary of a power transformer - not directly from the line as voltage doublers usually are). - Do I need a high-current capacitors in this application since they are actually providing the B+, not just filtering it? - A cap in the 120 volt source is specified as 4μfd at 475V! Is there some reason I need 475 V, or did the multi-cap C3 just happen to have an extra 4μfd cap at 475V so the design engineers use that one there? Last edited by Robert Grant; 09-05-2011 at 09:04 PM. Reason: added spacer lines since forum deletes the indents |
#14
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If there aint much space under the chassis which often is the case with color sets, then restuffing makes the job neater and all the benifits that come with that.
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#15
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Is it ok to drop your caps in the can and then surround them with CLEAR SILICONE?
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Audiokarma |
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