#61
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Here are the wire lengths, in inches, of the wire provided in the kit. All wire is solid 20 awg.
Black - 256 Brown - 60 Red - 240 Orange - 120 Yellow - 36 Green - 53 Blue - 53 White - 54 White/Orange - 18 Fiberglass Sleeving - 13 The fiberglass sleeving fits a 20awg wire. |
#62
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On behalf of Violet Wire, I demand a recount.
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#63
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You sound like a former phone company employee. We called it violet, not purple.
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#64
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Quote:
Black, Brown, Gray and White, be gone! True story - I knew the resistor color code before the 2nd grade..... NOW BACK TO THE OP's thread....
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Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#65
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My mnemonic has all the colors, but might be a bit dirty for the forums...It is third hand from a navy guy IIRC.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#66
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Bad Boys, Bad Beer, or Batman Beats?
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#67
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Back on topic, I finished making up the wire schedule and assigning them color codes.
Here are the colors and their functions: Black - B- Brown - Filament Red - B+ 130V Orange - B++ 260V Yellow - Cathode Green - Grid Blue - Plate Violet - Speaker Gray - 120VAC mains White - Misc. I used a few blue and green colors for misc. hook ups to keep the same color wire from going to adjacent terminal strip lugs. I did this maybe 3 or 4 times. Going through this exercise, I did manage to find a couple of errors and made note of the corrections. I'm attaching the wire schedule. |
#68
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I built several Allied Knight-kits and they would furnish pre-cut wire of various lengths, the color corresponding to the length. I always thought it was wrong, but I wired it per the instructions. |
#69
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#70
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Good news to report coming up. Stay tuned.
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Audiokarma |
#71
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I got a new 21FP4C rebuilt CRT. A big thank you to El Predicta who donated the CRT for this project. He also donated a spool of solid 20awg white wire. Thank you very much for your generosity!
Here are a few pictures of the CRT. I tested the CRT on my B&K 467. It checked out at 1.7. And the Life Test showed a drop from 1.7 to 1.65. Here is a picture of the straight gun. Yeah, I have to glue the base back on. Again a big shout out to El Predicta! Thank you. Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-08-2016 at 09:58 AM. |
#72
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#73
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I started working on re-stuffing the E-Caps. The first one is the multi sectioned C43. It has a 20uf 150V, 10uf 150V, and a 100uf 25V.
After removing the cardboard cover, this is what I found: I was a bit taken back but decided that what I should use is what the schematic and parts list calls for. What do you think? |
#74
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I'm in the middle of re-stuffing the E-Caps. I used my heat gun to heat up the cardboard cover and pulled it off the can. I then cleaned off all the black tar/wax from the capacitor. I then made some marks 3/8 inch up from the base of the cap. This is where I'll make the cut using my band saw. I cut each cap on the marks then dug out the caps innards. Cleaned up the bases and on the 2 single 200uf 150V caps I drilled 1/16 hole in the center and the other one near one of the mounting lugs. I'll run the wires through the holes and solder them to the correct lug.
I then took some 1" thin walled PVC tube and cut 1 inch lengths and trued up one end which was then marked. After the bases were cleaned up and de-burred and the PVC tube de-burred and cleaned up, the marked end were epoxied into their bases. the excess epoxy was then wiped off and the assembly was cleaned using rubbing alcohol and then the new caps will be wired in. Last edited by Crist Rigott; 12-10-2016 at 10:43 PM. |
#75
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Quote:
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Audiokarma |
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