Rca ctc-5 - Page 7 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

DaveWM · #91 10-10-2012, 07:10 PM

Vertical hold is very much centered now. Don't know which part (or parts) was the culprit, but its good now. So I think I will stop futzing with the chassis and move on to the yoke. that is going to be a week end project for sure as I need to get some plastic (will try the local surplus store "skyjunk") for that. Over all this set has been a push over.

DaveWM · #92 10-11-2012, 06:16 PM

got the yoke off, I assume the plastic cover is just a friction fit on the plastic of the yoke. I am tempted to look around the garage and see if I can find a plastic lid that fits.

Phil Nelson · #93 10-11-2012, 06:42 PM

Have you seen Bob's article about making yoke covers?

http://antiquetvguy.com/Web%20Pages/...okeCovers.html

More discussion here, including the Home Depot paint can cover solution:

http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=254453

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

DaveWM · #94 10-11-2012, 07:46 PM

yes I saw the article from Bob, but I think I will make a trip to home depot tomorrow. I did find some plastic in the shop, but its pretty thick stuff (1/8) so its a bit of a bear to work with.

DaveWM · #95 10-11-2012, 09:04 PM

this looks interesting

http://www.stuff4scrapbooking.com/wh...FQSxnQodVAsAtA

maybe cut the bottom off and use that.

DaveWM · #96 10-11-2012, 09:07 PM

this looks interesting

http://www.stuff4scrapbooking.com/wh...FQSxnQodVAsAtA

maybe cut the bottom off and use that.

or one of these lids

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=26147

DaveWM · #97 10-12-2012, 04:49 PM

I finally put a meter on the HOT cathode fuse, yikes 12v, per the setup instructions it should be 7.5v so clearly my HOT is pulling too much current. I will see if adj the eff coil helps.

miniman82 · #98 10-12-2012, 05:49 PM

If you want to add a horizontal drive control, I added one to my Wingate. It can help with setting up the horizontal section, and I even went one step further with a HV pot.

DaveWM · #99 10-12-2012, 07:19 PM

what did you end up with on cathode current. I am getting 205ma with my simpson 260 at 117vac

DaveWM · #**100** 10-12-2012, 07:43 PM

hmmm I see the cathode fuse is thru an 82 ohm resistor AND all the DC convergence pots. I can see how drift there would account for my 12v reading. I would have rather the the schematic give a current reading. I did dip the current with the eff coil, but very little improvement (it was pretty close to the dip already. I suppose I should check the HO tube control grid, there is no PP given but it does say -40v. It looks like it taps into the horz osc tube for some grid bias, with a voltage divider that also feeds the video out (assume H blanking for the Y signal). If I dont get the -40v I will take a look at those resistors a 1 meg and a 470k.

DaveWM · #**101** 10-13-2012, 01:50 PM

home depot snap on lids, 79c each.

It does indeed fit perfect, snaps right on with enough force to keep it in place but not so much as to stress anything. I just held the metal shield in place left the brass rivits in place, used an exacto blade to open up small holes where the rivits could then be pressed thru (the hole was small enough so I had to "work" the flattened part thru. after that I used the exacto to open up a center hole using the now installed shield center hole as a guide. 5 min tops.

DaveWM · #**102** 10-14-2012, 01:00 PM

is there some trick to adj the static convergence coils that are buried back in the chassis? Seems like a major PITA to get a micro screwdriver on them and the idea of going back and forth is a nightmare.

I am going to see if I can build a custom tool that allows you to slide over the screw holding the screw driver in place. Maybe just a bit of brass tubing slipped over the screwdriver would do the trick...

DaveWM · #**103** 10-14-2012, 01:31 PM

well that worked well enough, I had some stiff plastic tubing that makes a nice guide for the precision screw driver. I just need to make up two more (have to find a couple more precision drivers) and will leave them in place. the static looks good but the edges are way out of whack the V G/R is way off on both the right and left side, but seem more so on the right (facing screen). Anyway will proceed with the convergence before swapping the CRT into the good cabinet. I am wondering if I should attempt to swap the entire bezel with the CRT attached, as opposed to pulling all the stuff off and having to re do all the setup (assuming I can get it good on the current set).

mstaton · #**104** 10-14-2012, 01:36 PM

They do make a tool for that. You will need to get it from a local electronics supply store(if there is any anymore).

DaveWM · #**105** 10-14-2012, 02:30 PM

I was not seeing much action when fiddling with the various coils. I wanted to confirm that the H pulse was getting there, I scoped U1 and see about 65v horz pulse so that part is good. I will get my tools together and see whats up. I wonder if its possible some of those 22 ohm resistors across the coils have opened up? they are big, looks like 2watt and 10%, can not test them in circuit, if I have no luck with the cross hatch and following the directions I will have to go there.