Ge 21c2465

[Geist]

Hi All;
ElectronicM, it was a joke that it hadn't blown up while testing it.. I know that unless the Tube is struck, a tester won't cause it to explode and Break.. But, Thanks for the warning..
THANK YOU Marty

[davet753]

Originally Posted by bandersen

A more likely scenario would be brushing against the set when the back is off. That stubby little necks sticks out just enough to easily get broken.

I'm happy to say that I have yet to break a CRT except on purpose. Uh-oh! I probably just jinxed myself



Thanks! I hope just a little more tinkering and it'll be done

I wish I could say the same thing. I've broken several back when I was in the repair biz, and all were for customer's sets

I was a Crosley dealer in the 90's. Of course, Crosley is just a brand name now (appliances sourced from Whirlpool and electronics were sourced from Magnavox). I paid $300 for a 1954 model Crosley console that had been restored. It was a beautiful set that sure got a lot of compliments. I had a customer one day who was standing in front of it, and pushed the cabinet back against the wall....my heart sank as I heard the rush of air when the neck snapped off the pic tube.

I ended up selling it to a local optometrist who gutted it and converted it to a display case in his waiting room.

[bandersen]

I finally had some time late last night to pull the back off this set and do some investigating.

First, I took a look at the metal tabs pressing against the aquadag coating and they are both making good contact. They are attached to the metal band running around the CRT which is bolted into a metal frame running around the front of the set. All that looked fine.

Then I noticed that the metal CRT frame is separate from the metal TV chassis. They have to be connected somewhere. Eventually, I noticed a missing bolt that connects the two together. Replacing that solved the problem


Another issue is bad horizontal hold. It takes a few second after power up for it to lock and the control on the back of the set is very touchy.

I did the obvious thing first and retested the tubes. Right away I found one half of a 6CG7 completely dead. Weird. The filament is glowing but it has 0 emissions. I replaced it and the sync is solid now

[Down Under]

Hi Bob,

I commented on your You Tube post about this set, finally had the chance to show you what I mean. I was quite surprised when I first saw a GE set like this.

Yours is much nicer than mine, but most Australian TVs are not that fantastic. Pity I can only seem to upload one pic from the iPad, there's 2 more.

Cheers,

Adam

[bandersen]

Wow, that sure does look the same - even the knobs!

[Tubejunke]

Originally Posted by bandersen

Right away I found one half of a 6CG7 completely dead. Weird. The filament is glowing but it has 0 emissions. I replaced it and the sync is solid now

I have a $2 pocket knife with a serrated edge that works perfectly for scraping oxidation from tube pins. They need to be shiny. The typical dull gray look is a problem in the works. Many times with a tester you can hold down the "test" button and wiggle the tube around and that dead section will come to life proving that the tube needs cleaning. Otherwise there would have to be an internally open connection which is possible, but unlikely.

[walterbeers]

The dental pictures looks like the same type of equipment that my dentist used when I was a kid getting work done. Gosh that was 50+ years ago. I probably still have some of the fillings that he put in. Bet that x-ray machine put out a lot more power than the x-rays from any TV set.

[Down Under]

Here's the remaining 2 pics I took, sorry about the poor quality.

You can see how uninspiring the cabinet is compared to yours Bob, and the chassis is completely different. There should be a cage over the high voltage section at the top right corner, but that's in the UK now! I can't wait to get stuck into this, as I had one of these when I was a kid. Back then, if it involved more than tweaking a few internal controls or replacing a tube, it was too hard to fix!

Ah, if only the internet had been around then!

You can see why I think that someone was sleeping with someone else in terms of the design: they're too identical to be a coincidence. I wonder if there is a story to be uncovered here!

Cheers,

Adam

[rca2000]

Originally Posted by ggregg

I was hoping someone would jump on that one. Good to see it went to a good home. That speaker is crazy, man , crazy.........

But it is probably driven by a single 6CU5 with maybe 2 watts of power....WAAAYYY too much speaker for the amp!!

[rca2000]

Originally Posted by Down Under

Hi Bob,

I commented on your You Tube post about this set, finally had the chance to show you what I mean. I was quite surprised when I first saw a GE set like this.

Yours is much nicer than mine, but most Australian TVs are not that fantastic. Pity I can only seem to upload one pic from the iPad, there's 2 more.

Cheers,

Adam

I have a 19" portable like this. ALMOST got stolen last winter....but I saved it before the thieves came back for it...Has an "M4" chassis too I think.

[Down Under]

Glad to hear you still have it! Stealing stuff from people is all kinds of wrong.

This chassis in the pic is an M1. Not sure if there's any relationship there or not. What still amazes me is that my HMV was from around the mid 60's, yet US TVs were well and truly using PCBs by then. Point to point wired chassises (new word to be learnt!) are more fiddly to work on, but still fun. Although the PCBs in Predictas aren't exactly the easiest to work on...

[Glenz75]

And here are the same small controls as on the GE and the HMV...this time on one of my New Zealand made Philips 1960's tube console black and white sets.....Who was pinching who's design ideas??