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  #46  
Old 10-10-2010, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bandersen View Post
...I'm making good progress on the cabinet this weekend.

I'm going to use grain filler this time. I've used multiple coats of shellac and sanding before, but this Mahogany veneer has a really open grain and it takes forever.

The Behlen water based stuff is easy to apply, no fumes and cleans up easily...
This veneer really does soak up the shellac. I wonder if all paper backed veneers are that way.

John
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  #47  
Old 10-10-2010, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Albrecht View Post
The top half of the control panel originally had a matte brass finish, which indeed looks a little darker. The rest was originally plated bright. One of my panels is in pretty good condition so it is easy to see what the original state was.

I'll probably use some coarse polishing compount or scouring powder on the matte part of mine, and the mask that off while polishing the rest with some fine polishing compound.
Thanks, that sounds like a good plan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeyurkon View Post
This veneer really does soak up the shellac. I wonder if all paper backed veneers are that way.

John
I think it's just the nature of the mahogany - mine is a very coarse, open grain.
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  #48  
Old 10-15-2010, 01:13 AM
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The control panel is polishing up as nicely as the logo did. It doesn't look like I'll even need to refill any of the recessed red paint


I found some Rust-oleum satin 'green apple' that's a pretty good match for the old paint around the screen.


I found another dubious repair under the chassis. This is supposed to be 560 7W. It's measuring 412 and I have no idea about the wattage.
Wish I had ordered a new one along with the caps It'll just have to do until I place another order for parts.
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  #49  
Old 10-15-2010, 07:29 AM
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Great that the control panel is brass plated and will polish up so nicely, and is not some painted fake job made to look like brass.
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  #50  
Old 10-15-2010, 02:15 PM
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Better than that even - it's solid brass So is the screen bezel.
I've used Mohawk 'lacquer for brass' on other objects after polishing with excellent results. No tarnishing or discoloration months later.

I'd like to do the same here, but I'm concerned about the lacquer reacting with the recessed red paint
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  #51  
Old 10-16-2010, 09:59 AM
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Bob, it looks great. I often get a set working and then when it comes to the cabinet, I am ready to move on to another project (A-D-D?) But seriously, I like that green apple color from Rustoleum. I have seen a lot of new colors lately from both Rustoleum and Krylon. There is a color that Krylon makes that is very close to the original color of Tektronix cabinets.

Glad also that the bezel is brass. And I too share your concern that the lacquer may raise the red paint. But guess there is only one way to find out...


(BTW, this is the second time I have tried to respond to this thread and the darn dial-up keeps dropping the call. This time, when I suspected it was going to drop it again, I copied what I had typed onto the clipboard. Then, all of the pictures have to download again... Gotcha!)
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  #52  
Old 10-16-2010, 05:27 PM
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Thanks. It's all about the weather. I need to get the cabinet sprayed with lacquer before it gets too cold. Luckily, we are having a warmer than normal October so far

Sorry to hear about you dial up woes. I would have thought that the pictures would get cached by your browser
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Last edited by bandersen; 10-17-2010 at 12:00 AM.
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  #53  
Old 10-19-2010, 06:17 PM
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Thanks to VK member 'mikeh', I have a HV cover

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  #54  
Old 10-19-2010, 08:57 PM
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That set is really coming together nicely! Very nice of GE to go to the expense of using a solid brass panel. It looks like it would be much more fun to polish up the old brass than having to strip and repaint the plated/painted panels found on other sets. I'm glad to see that mikeh had that HV cage for you, too. I think if I was missing a proprietary part like that in my set, I'd be lost! I guess it would be time for some fabrication, hm?
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  #55  
Old 10-21-2010, 01:11 AM
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Thanks! It's one of the simplest shields I've come across - just a single sheet bent into a "U" shape. Probably not too hard to fabricate - especially if you have access to a brake.
I'm very happy to have an original though.

I had been using the Riders 810 schematic from the ETF and was getting very confused in a couple spots. Then I took a look at a Wallace Telaide, and it matched mine perfectly. I suspect the Riders covers an earlier revision than my set.

Here's a nice glob of resistors. The schematic calls for 2 X 27K @ 2W, but I discovered 4 x 56K @ 1W.
Maybe they ran out of the correct value on the assembly line ? I suspect a single 13.5 K @ 4W would work fine too.

This chassis is pretty cramped - definitely not my favorite to work on
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  #56  
Old 10-21-2010, 06:53 AM
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Ge 810

I had 3 of those 810's in the past 10 yrs, someplace on here is a posting I placed about my first 810 and restoration about 7 yrs ago..
that lower brass part will clean up well and shine like new, I took mine into a metal shop here in madison and they charged 20 buck to polish it and spray a clear coat over so that the brass would not stain again..
and ALL of my 810's had no HV cover.
also all that weird missmatched resistors and caps were the same on 2 of mine..I had found out that GE had a bigtime problem with the HV transformers on this chassis.
The factory mod and fix was to replace the HV Transformer with the round donut type just like you have there, then a whole bunch of resistors and Capacitors had to be changed..I could never get the Horz size and linearity to operate correctly no matter what I did, so I lived with it..
I had rebuilt the filter caps just like you did, but they really overheat and the best way is a fresh stock Cans.
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  #57  
Old 10-21-2010, 08:00 AM
kvflyer kvflyer is offline
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Bob,

Looking good. I am back home now (but in and out for a little while). I can really follow the thread with my FiOS high speed connection. Funny how you get spoiled.

Glad it is going along. I know that I had a similar experience with my Admiral 16" 26R12 set. The Wallace Telaide schematic was very accurate and the only Sams was one for a console with a radio and phono. The Admiral also had a lot of paralleled resistors. From the same era. Maybe a time when resistors were in short supply? I replaced that stuff with the correct value single resistor as well.

Looking forward to continued progress with your GE!
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  #58  
Old 10-22-2010, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by kvflyer View Post

(BTW, this is the second time I have tried to respond to this thread and the darn dial-up keeps dropping the call. This time, when I suspected it was going to drop it again, I copied what I had typed onto the clipboard. Then, all of the pictures have to download again... Gotcha!)

You could try an initialization string to keep your modem in line. My favorite was AT&F&C1&D2S=50. Usually will keep the connection steady.
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  #59  
Old 10-22-2010, 06:51 PM
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You could try an initialization string to keep your modem in line. My favorite was AT&F&C1&D2S=50. Usually will keep the connection steady.
Thanks for taking the time to respond, I do appreciate it. I am now home and back on my high speed connection. I really understand how "Spoiled" I was
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  #60  
Old 10-23-2010, 02:47 PM
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Couple of points:

Shellac: I have given up on using shellac as a sealer as it goes bad in the can, etc. Now use Deft Sanding Sealer.

Metal Work: using plain or perforated metal available in sheets from home centers, it's not too hard to bend up a box. I've made a number of parts by clamping metal to the work surface with a board across at the bend line, then bending up with another piece of wood sort of hinge style, finishing with a hammer and a block of wood. A brake would make it easier, but good results can be had by hand.
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