Anyone have any Zenith Convergence Coils? - Videokarma.org TV - Video

TinCanAlley · #1 08-14-2013, 12:15 PM

Well I rotated the image on my screen and went to touch up the convergence. All was going well until the blue convergence coil just seized. I tried to free it, but I'm at the point of were it's stripping the hole.

Does anyone have, or know where I can get part #: S-87341

Thanks

***Kamakiri*** · #2 08-14-2013, 01:03 PM

I've got one. It's off I believe a '67 Zenith, which is of course a tube set. Mine has no part number, might want to post a pic of what you need so we can see if it's a match

TinCanAlley · #3 08-14-2013, 01:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamakiri

I've got one. It's off I believe a '67 Zenith, which is of course a tube set. Mine has no part number, might want to post a pic of what you need so we can see if it's a match

This is the best picture I have currently. I circled the coil, but the angle is the best. I'll make time to pull her apart later and get some better pics.

TinCanAlley · #4 08-14-2013, 01:10 PM

Oh yeah, the coil is warmer than the other two. I don't know if this is normal or I should be looking for a problem. Of course it could be warm because it's just about all the way up and stuck. This could be the cause of the heat (not too hot to touch, but very noticeable). This coil is the blue right screen adjuster.

***Kamakiri*** · #5 08-14-2013, 01:13 PM

Here's what I've got. The coil in the center that's all spaghetti'd out is the R/G vertical. Blue coil is the one on the left. If you think it'll work, I'll just send you the whole assembly....packed VERY carefully. These suckers get super brittle with age, which of course you know

andy · #6 08-14-2013, 01:18 PM

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TinCanAlley · #7 08-14-2013, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kamakiri

Here's what I've got. The coil in the center that's all spaghetti'd out is the R/G vertical. Blue coil is the one on the left. If you think it'll work, I'll just send you the whole assembly....packed VERY carefully. These suckers get super brittle with age, which of course you know

I appreciate it. Let's hold off until I can confirm whether it will work. Will save us time and shipping costs if it won't work.

I did find that a part from JW Miller (6322) is a replacement for it and there are a few places that have them. I need to see if anyone here has ever used one of the replacements from Miller.

Thanks for the offer and if you can hang on just a bit longer while I verify, that would be great.

***Kamakiri*** · #8 08-14-2013, 01:21 PM

Sure. I wouldn't be able to send until next week anyway, as I leave for NYC tomorrow morning. Drop me a PM if you need it

TinCanAlley · #9 08-14-2013, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andy

The core is probably cracked (I hope you weren't using a metal hex key). If you can remove it (you'll probably have the break it up) you can replace it with one of similar length from just about any old coil.

Well at first I tried every tool that come with the plastic alignment set I purchsed, but nothing would fit. I then found a small torx driver that fit and worked like a charm. All three coils adjusted just fine until the blue reached the end of its travel up. Once there, it wouldn't turn to go back down. I know you're not supposed to use metal tools, but there wasn't anything I had or could find that wasn't metal to do the adjustments.

So I should remove the coil from the board and get the core out? The bottom is just a small hole and the top seems to have some kind of stop. If I break the core, will the replacement core get past whatever is stopping the current one from coming out?

TinCanAlley · #10 08-14-2013, 03:10 PM

Good news. I found out from Talon Electronics that the coil I'm looking for S-87341 has been superseded by S-73854 and they have them for 5 bucks. Since I was already about to order a bunch of OEM transistors and diodes, I just added on the coil. Should have it here by Saturday.

Sometimes things just work out.

andy · #11 08-14-2013, 03:11 PM

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TinCanAlley · #12 08-14-2013, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andy

A Torx screwdriver will definitely crack those cores sooner or later. Even with the proper size plastic tool, you have to be gentle.

The core can normally just screw in and out fully with nothing stopping it. If you have to, you can always enlarge the hole at one end.

If it were to screw completely out, it would be from the top. The bottom hole is about 3/16 or less while the top is about 5/16 or more (to lazy to do exact measurements).

You wouldn't happen to know where I can get a nice set of alignment tools and non-conductive as well?

AiboPet · #13 08-14-2013, 04:08 PM

I've bought like three sets of "diddle sticks" of all sorts of flavors on the ePay over the last couple years. Not sure how I would look for them in a specific search. I just happen to run across them in a "vintage TV" search.

zeno · #14 08-15-2013, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TinCanAlley

If it were to screw completely out, it would be from the top. The bottom hole is about 3/16 or less while the top is about 5/16 or more (to lazy to do exact measurements).

You wouldn't happen to know where I can get a nice set of alignment tools and non-conductive as well?

For diddle sticks.
http://gcelectronics.com/order/SubCa...%20380-387.pdf
For hex tools there are 2 common sizes. The Zenith uses the
most common on & there is a smaller one sometimes used.
Also a square one for RCA. Screwdriver ones are mostly used in JP sets
& small radio.
Another tool that are almost a must have is a LONG 1/4" (#8)
nutdriver. Xcelite used to make it. About 30" long with a
magnet, gets to screws holding tuners & deep in anywhere.
Be sure a used one isnt worn. Should be lots of NOS around.
They also made a yellow handled one (dont remember size)
and a phillips. The phillips is essential for some old JP sets.

73 Zeno

Findm-Keepm · #15 08-15-2013, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeno

Another tool that are almost a must have is a LONG 1/4" (#8)
nutdriver. Xcelite used to make it. About 30" long with a
magnet, gets to screws holding tuners & deep in anywhere.
Be sure a used one isnt worn. Should be lots of NOS around.
They also made a yellow handled one (dont remember size)
and a phillips. The phillips is essential for some old JP sets.

73 Zeno

I used to sell Xcelite - the nutdrivers were prefixed as follows:

P - Pocket (P8=Pocket Red=Pocket1/4")
Number only = 5" (nominal) shaft (8=standard length Red=1/4")
HS - Hollow Shaft, beefier, but bulkiness limited their use.
L = Long = 10" (nominal) shaft
LL = the longest, as you mentioned, the LL8, also available back then in the yellow, and through special order, the green.

Now it's all 99-series if you need longer lengths or magnetic tips in most sizes. The pocket, and standard (5") are being produced, and the L8 and L10 nutdrivers are also being produced.

Xcelite's XST-series (Xtra True Tip) Phillips screwdrivers are the best. I have a set I bought in 1983, still going, in all sizes and lengths. Best tool investment I ever made. Sadly, not made anymore.

Cheers,