Why no love for this GE roundie ?

[tvcollector]

I would like something similar to the Leader LCG-400 that does the color bar patterns and the square/circle patterns to align vert/horz linearity.. Maybe something smaller then the LCG-400.. Something in between $10 - $100... Anyone know of a good make and/or model that does this and everything else?

[tvcollector]

I've got a degaussing coil.. The set has it's own and works.. I've noticed that the bulb for the UHF tuner is not working, and also when I go into UHF and adjust the UHF channel selector, I don't see any change in the fuzz of the set picking up digital signals etc. Usually you'll hear the static change noise and fuzz change.. The bulb looks like a push in/out bulb, similar to tail light bulbs on vehicles.. I looked in the Sams and don't see anything about the tuner light bulbs.. Not sure if the UHF tuner is completely out, or if the bulb being out also effects the UHF tuner.. Looking through the hole, the bulb looks like it could be burnt out..

Here's the videos:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10Q4R50-rF8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glhGhNbOzTw

[tvcollector]

I noticed that vert height is all the way up, and the pic could use a little more height, as there is slight blackness on the bottom.. Also the centering is all the way down, and adjusting up takes the blank space on the bottom up.. The vert linearity seems to have plenty of adjustment still.. I suspect this would be due to caps that are probably needing replacement.. Should I start checking caps on the Horz/Vert board?

[Findm-Keepm]

The tuner bulb is likely a #47, readily available. As to the vertical, yes a recap is recommended- the originals are nearly 50 years old an hardly reliable. Check to see if you are getting B+ to the UHF tuner. A switch on the VHF tuner closes in the UHF position, and the switch is usually on the back of the VHF tuner.

Cheers and Merry Christmas,

[tvcollector]

Thanks Findmkeepm for the info and everything you've done to help me out.. Merry Christmas to you aswell... I suppose I should just order up all cap values on that board, and replacement electrolytics for the cans...

[tvcollector]

A few questions question:

I'm trying to order the electrolytics for the cans, and a card board electrolytic on the audio / video output / agc / sync separator / sweep board.. Assuming that's the right board to replace all the film caps on also and get the vertical height and centering in better range..

Sams shows the cans with different sections.. I'm not sure if it's showing a rating for each cap in those sections.. Some show a square and triangle symbol.. I'm not sure if it's showing the microfarad of each cap..

C3 is on the board mentioned above.. Looks to be a one section.. Shows 50 and 150 volts.. I'm assuming it means 50mf / 150volts.. Chart also shows a dot above Cap.. So I'm not sure.. I select 50uf 150volt electrolytic caps in mouser and I only get a handful of side mount caps.. and this one in the link would be the only one i could get seeing how mouser has a set minimum for the rest
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...C6mVFqUbFZE%3d

I did the Mallory part number search on Google and came up with this site

http://www.tedss.com/TC49

I assume I must be correct. on how I'm reading the Sams.. I guess if this site has this value.. I might as well get it from them seeing how the correct part number will mount correctly instead of ordering a random cap that mounts different..

I'm also typing the values for the 4 section cans into mouser and I don't get very much.. Another cap like in the mouser link above and they want $15.80 for one cap.. Not sure if there is another source to get these elctrolytics other than mouser and digikey, and bottom mounts would be better for the cans..

The ceramic disc caps on the sams don't show voltages for any of them.. Should I worry about replacing those or just the film and electrolytic caps?

[Electronic M]

Okay time to drop some knowledge:
Ceramic caps are VERY reliable, and should not be changed except if you have good reason to suspect one in a malfunctioning circuit.
The can caps C1 and C2 in your set are each essentially four different lytics in the same can with the negative leads tied to the can....The four positive leads come out the bottom center and are marked with triangle, square, semi-circle, or blank so that the different positive terminals of the different 'sections' (caps in the can) can be distinguished from each other.
Getting another can exactly like it is a BAD move....Aside from overpriced guitar amp niche cans, can lytics like that have been out of production for decades, and any you find (even NOS) are likely to be as bad as what is in the set.....You are going to have to either re-stuff the cans or find places under the chassis to put the replacements that is just the way it is for us tube based electronic restorers these days.
There are cheaper usable caps that you are missing in your search. First off any cap with a higher voltage rating and acceptable capacitance will work. As for an acceptable capacitance with lytics assume a 10-15% tolerance in cap value is fine (papers and films can be more finicky)....Back in the day parts makers had a different set of standard part ratings then those used today so a 50uF cap is non-standard and more expensive, but a 47uf of the same voltage is common and cheap. The modern standard values include 1, 2.2, 3.3, 4.7, 6.8, 8.2 and any power of 10 multiple there of.

Hope this helps you.

[tvcollector]

Even though the cans don't get hot, I was told I should replace them anyways.. I plan on restuffing the cans.. Each of the cans show 4 different values so I figured that it's basically four caps per can on the C1 and C2.. I Just found it difficult to find the exact values and wasn't sure if I was able to go slightly up or down on the values.. I know about the neg leads going to the ground and all that, but that's makes since about the positive leads.. I see what you are saying so I can replace a 50uf with a more common 47uf and a 20 with a 22, etc.. seeing how they are very close.. And can find a Nichicon PW series (Brown ones) that are more better I heard.. Let me see what I can find.. So far I found all of the film orange drop caps for the horz / vert osc board..

Update:

I found all.. Greatly appreciated Tom.. What is the name of the rubber hosing that will go around the cap leads for restuffing the cans? I'll need to get a roll of that too..

[Electronic M]

You are welcome.

I believe it's heat shrink tubing that you are looking for...It has a lot of good uses and lasts better than electrical tape.

I generally leave the cans be if they are cool, there is no hum, and there are none in any CKTs that I've found issues in...When in doubt change them out, or if you have an eye type cap checker test them for capacitance and leakage at or near rated voltage. They are at that age where if they are still good they could last another 30 years or go bang the next time you run it...I'm cheap so I wait until there is reason to replace.

[tvcollector]

That's it.. Just couldn't think of the term for it.. I just found one of Bob's videos on it also.. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions once I get stuck somewhere... Thanks..

[zeno]

On a GE no UHF is usually the UHF IF link.
Its a cable with RCA jacks on both ends. They
crimped the center wire & would go cold.
Bad news they soldered them in & you gotta be
real carefull you dont rip out the jack when fixing it.
If you dont need UHF best to leave it be.

Bulb if a bayonette type a #47 a good bet. If it
has just folded over wires a #159 or #259. Zenith used
those a lot. If its an orange light it may be an NE-2,
its a neon so has no filament & is soldered in.

The vert has an electrolytic off the cathode of the vert out
tube. Its either in a can or separate sometimes on the
convergence board. Very common on all sets. Dont
forget the tube can be bad even if it tests good.
After that go for caps & off value resistors. The higher
value resistors drift more especially around the size control.
Dont change the disc caps, they almost never go.
When they do they short & burn usually. If any are
cracked change them.

Last in your screenshot it looks like the blue lateral is
way off. Its the copper colored magnet & it moves the
blue side to side as opposed to the up& down of the
clover. Dont pull it in & out, turn it.

73 Zeno

[tvcollector]

Thanks for the tips zeno...

[Bill R]

Do a google search on the Sprague part number and you will come up with one at Mouser for $5.36 for the 50 mf at 150 volts. They use the Sprague part number as part of their part number.

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Bill R

Do a google search on the Sprague part number and you will come up with one at Mouser for $5.36 for the 50 mf at 150 volts. They use the Sprague part number as part of their part number.

If it was me, I'd use a Panasonic 47uf/200V 105 degree for 85 cents...sure, it's a radial, but could easily be subbed and save the greenbacks.

Most electrolytic caps today are rated with a tolerance of +/- 20% as opposed to +80/-20% of old. 47uf for a 50uf is what we always went with, and the 105 degree caps add a safety/operation margin.

just my $.02.

[tvcollector]

Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm

If it was me, I'd use a Panasonic 47uf/200V 105 degree for 85 cents...sure, it's a radial, but could easily be subbed and save the greenbacks.

Most electrolytic caps today are rated with a tolerance of +/- 20% as opposed to +80/-20% of old. 47uf for a 50uf is what we always went with, and the 105 degree caps add a safety/operation margin.

just my $.02.

I think you mean this one here

http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...67-EEU-ED2D470

It's 99 cent.. The other that's 85 Cents is rated 85 degree maximum..

Most of the electrolytic caps in my cart at mouser are the Nichicon PW series and ones that aren't are either Panasonic or a Nichicon that's rated for 105 degree temps..


That's funny how Bill mentions that Sprague part number that links to the same side mount cap that I listed above.. It would work, but would have to mount it a funky way..