21-CT-55 Parts needed for restoration;

[CT-100]

I am restoring a 21-CT-55 that is missing a few parts. Any assistance would be appreciated. I have parts to trade or would be more than willing to discuss a purchase.

1. My cabinet is missing one leg.
2. The bottom chassis shield is missing. I can make a replacement using modern, available, stock, but an original would be appreciated.
3. I was very fortunate to acquire a (beautiful) low-voltage cage fabricated by a fellow preservationist. I would still have an interest in an original cover though.
4. The high voltage shorting bar assembly that falls into the cage when the rear of the set is removed.


Of these items, the cabinet leg is the most important to me.


Thank you.

Regards,
Mark

[bgadow]

Could you post the measurements of that leg? I have a bunch of them but I don't think many are that short. At least one other member on here has a stash, as well.

[CT-100]

Thank you for your reply. I will measure the leg and post the results within 24hours.

Regards,
Mark

[CT-100]

The images are crude, but accurate. We're getting ready for some nasty weather here in the D.C. area, so I was unable to provide a better sketch.

The dimensions are:
Overall height (less bottom metal glide): 4 1/2" (4.5")
Height of brass leg cap: 1 1/4" (1.25")
Diameter at top of leg: 1 7/8 ~ 1 15/16"
Diameter at bottom of leg: 1 1/4" (1.25")

Thank you for your help, this has been a difficult part for me to locate and a replacement would be encouraging to my restoration endeavor.

Mark

[ohohyodafarted]

This is not going to be an easy one. I did some searching on the internet and short wood legs are not redily available and this appears to be an odd size to begin with. My guess is that it was a custom specification for RCA for this set.

If I was in your position, I would turn the leg myself or have someone with a lathe turn it for you. As for the brass ferrul on the end. You will probably have to make it yourself. I would start by machining a solid steel tapered form that would conform to the inside dimensions of the existing brass ferrul. Then obtain some brass tubing with an appropriate wall thickness. Clamp your solid steel tapered form in a vise and slip the brass tubing over the end of your steel tapered form and start heating the brass tubing with a propane torch. While the tubing is hot tap the exposed end of the brass tubing which will slowly force the brass to expand as it is forced down over the steel tapered form.

It is very do-able, but you are going to need a machine lathe at the very least to make the tapered steel form. You could also use the machine lathe to turn the wood leg.

Back in the day, tapered wood legs were plentiful because they were used on a lot of furniture. Today everything is plastic and tapered legs are rather out of style.

Like a lot of things in our hobby, you need to be well prepared to improvise and create your own reproduction or replacement parts. And even when parts are not missing, you still need to be able to restore and refurbish the existing parts which are often in poor condition. As I have progressed in this hobby, I have discovered that every set I resotore presents some sort of new challenge. Each new challenge presents an opportunity for me to invent, and design solutions to new problems. I often buy new tools just to solve a new problem. I never would have purchased a spot welder if I hadn't the need to fabricate a back for my 21CT55. I never would have purchased a hot air plastic welder if I hadn't the need to repair a polyethylene shroud for a CTC4.

I recently discovered a local company that has a large flatbed CNC table router large enough to create replica backs for large console tv sets. He has already made me a replica back for a CTC4. It was costly because between programming and router time, I invested $125 just for a CTC4 masonite back. He also has the capability to do digital full color revererse printing on glass or plexiglass and he is in the process of making dial glass items for myself and John Folsom.

The point is that if you can't find a replacement part, and you cant make it yourself, the only option is to hire someone to replicate the part for you. At times this can be very costly.

Good luck and if I can be of any assistance, feel free to PM me.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Not exactly what you need, but I've got dozens of these two sizes. All NOS from the 60's. My dad used to manufacture and upholster furniture. These have been stashed in my attic all these years. Look like standard 5/16-24 thread. The shorter ones measure 5 1/4 length x 1 3/4 at the wide end x 7/8" narrow end. Long ones are 7" length x 1 5/8 wide end x 3/4 narrow. Stamped made in Japan. If anyone wants a few they're free for flat rate box postage.

[CT-100]

Bob:

Thank you for your advice. Some of the techniques you have described are currently beyond my abilities; however I think you’ve made an excellent point. Specifically, a large segment of this hobby is developing new skills and using them to create what we’re missing.

I once again took the opportunity to visit your web-pages to more carefully read about your 21-CT-55 restoration project. Compared to what you were able to fabricate, my parts should be a “walk in the park”. The knob you located for me a few months ago is working perfectly; that was the missing on-off/volume control knob for the “55”. The missing bottom plate should not be too difficult to make; McMaster-Carr has perforated sheet stock that closely resembles the characteristics of the bottom plate on [my] CT-100. I’ll assume the bottoms plates were very similar, if not identical, except for possibly their final dimensions. The low-voltage cage I located is indistinguishable from the one on the CT-100, but I didn’t make that personally. This was provided by a very generous fellow collector. The shorting bar may be more trouble than it’s worth, but we may be taking “sour-grapes” here because I “ain’t gonna” find one of those assemblies regardless.

As you can read in the post below, I have fabricated a leg of the correct dimensions by cutting a section, that is, some from the top and the bottom, of a leg I located at a neighborhood garage sale. It does not have the proper brass ferrule, but nevertheless, it is correct in terms of its length and top and bottom diameters.

Mark

[CT-100]

Kevin,

Thank you for posting a description of these legs and offering them to the VK community.

As you may have read above, I have made a leg of the correct top and bottom diameters, and of the correct length. I may have to fabricate the brass ferrule though if I cannot locate an exact replacement.

Mark

[Steve D.]

Mark,

You could have Kevin send you 4 of the short brass tipped legs if the screw threading is correct. Just replace all four legs. The price is right and the postage should be low.

-Steve D.