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Looking for CRT 21FJP22 or 21FBP22.
Hello all-
I hope someone can help??... I have a 1964 GE "Roundie" Color TV, Model-M 932 BMP A, Chassis-CB21536. Sad to say, durning transport, The CRT was damaged, All the wires from CRT tube neck pulled out, Cant solder, too short, And can cause further damage. Im looking for a replacement, Im sure it will be hard to find?. CRT- 21FJP22A or 21FBP22. Im in the Chgoland Area. Thank you. Last edited by jls2; 11-27-2021 at 01:33 AM. |
#2
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If the wires only pulled out of the bakelite and not the glass and the evacuation nipple on the glass isn't broken then the tube you have is completely savable.
Count the wires coming out of the glass and the wires going to the CRT socket from chassis and if they are the same then all the wires are fine. To reattach the bakelite base take a piece of lamp cord, strip about 6" of it and harvest a couple of the thin wire strands, twist the ends of those strands around the end of one of the leads coming from the neck and solder them on, rinse and repeat till each lead coming from the neck has a strand of 2 of lamp wire extending it 3-6". Now heat each pin of the bakelite base with a 75W or higher soldering iron and thoroughly suck all lead out with a solder sucking tool. Thread the extensions through the correct pins, put some high temperature silicone on the inner rim edge of the base, slide the base onto the neck, gently pull the extension wires taught and solder the pins. Once the silicone dries it's ready to use. I can hear what you're thinking right now...."but Tom the bakelite base is smashed to bits"...there's a solution to that. Locate a brightener that fits your CRT and remove the bakelite base from the brightener and use it as the new base for your tube. If this sounds impossible consider I did this process on a one of a kind Philco 21AXP22 where some of the leads broke off flush with the glass with the socket still on...I had to remove the base carefully, file down the glass till I had a stub to solder to and on the short stubs avoid cracking the glass by heating the solder joint too long...And I succeeded. See this thread for a chronicle of that: https://antiqueradios.com/forums/vie...AXP22#p3313619
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#3
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Tom, agree and can second all you said. I too have had to attach leads broken flush with the glass. Careful picking at it gave me the opportunity to attach wires.
To thread the base I used thin gauge wire wrap wire. I tack solder to the ends of the wires from the CRT and thread them through. I use fast setting epoxy to attach the base to the tube. Never been unsuccessful doing this. |
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